white smoke cause found
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Junior User
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white smoke cause found
A while ago my 6.9 started smoking. I found the dead hole and put in an injector. No effect. When I went to pull the glow plug to check compression it separated and in a fit of rage pulled the engine and opted for a 7.3 since I had a few. I was just about to scrap the thing and curiosity got the better Of me. A lifter had broke at the ears and the roller and pin had fallen off the intake. That's why it was pumping out raw fuel. So just to let everyone know. Pull the valve covers before going crazy ape man. Because the rest of the internals looked great. Very clean and the sump screen caught the debris. I could have ran that engine another ten years. That is all.
Fleet Owner
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From: Mi'kma'ki
found what you might be interested in reading:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...9-rockers.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...9-rockers.html
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My 6.9 is an 87. It already had the newer rockers without that goofy bridge on top. Not sure what caused it to fail. The pushrods are all straight. Even the cam is fine other than some serious wear in the fuel pump lobe. For some reason the ears holding the pin and roller just broke. At any rate everything top and exterior is going on my new 7.3 . Just looking for some rebuilt heads New water pump and injectors. The 6.9 just got a new fuel ip. Rumour is that they aretthe same so if that's true I'm almost all set.
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Elder User
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From: West Des Moines, IA
There's no difference between a 6.9 and 7.3 injection pump that you'll ever notice performance-wise between the two engines.
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Junior User
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Personally I have never had one apart. How does it meter fuel. And the coveted screw to up the fuel. Is there a rack it adjusts in there or what? Are the injectors all the same and the pump does the work or are the injectors different Too? The exhaust is supposed to be the same Too. I hope so because I just have broken 7.3 manifolds I've never gotten around to repairing.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: West Des Moines, IA
It's all working on the same basic principle. The injection pump (regardless of 6.9 or 7.3) turns in a rotary direction, opening up the port to and pushing fuel to the injector line. The line reaches a certain PSI, and the injector opens up. It squirts fuel into the pre-chamber, and when the PSI drops below a certain point, it closes. That's it.
The injectors are pretty much all the same as well; just small differences in tips and open/close pressures. The different codes are to tell you what the tips are. Open/close pressures can be set using shims and aren't specific to any style of injector. There's no such thing as a "specific horsepower adding" injector for an IDI. And only one style that I know of personally as a "performance" injector, but it's designed to work specifically with the guy's custom-designed injection pump. Just find yourself a brand new set of Delphi BB code injectors for around $300 and you'll be good to go.
The injection pump is calibrated on a machine to push fuel; there's no set amount for each pump to be exactly like the other; they need to be calibrated individually. What works for one pump won't necessarily work for the next. The screw to turn up the pump is on the passenger side behind the little plate.
Do yourself a favor and don't touch that screw until you have an EGT gauge.
The injectors are pretty much all the same as well; just small differences in tips and open/close pressures. The different codes are to tell you what the tips are. Open/close pressures can be set using shims and aren't specific to any style of injector. There's no such thing as a "specific horsepower adding" injector for an IDI. And only one style that I know of personally as a "performance" injector, but it's designed to work specifically with the guy's custom-designed injection pump. Just find yourself a brand new set of Delphi BB code injectors for around $300 and you'll be good to go.
The injection pump is calibrated on a machine to push fuel; there's no set amount for each pump to be exactly like the other; they need to be calibrated individually. What works for one pump won't necessarily work for the next. The screw to turn up the pump is on the passenger side behind the little plate.
Do yourself a favor and don't touch that screw until you have an EGT gauge.
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Lol so I keep hearing, I think you'd have to be giving it alot of fuel to burn the pistons but I'm not the guy who wants to test it out. I'm already on a budget so I do t need to blow it on silliness. I have read and understand the procedure to do it though I was just curious as to what it actually is moving.
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Has anyone actually seen the burnt up pistons? These engines have piston cooling/lubricating oil pipes. From a design and function perspective these engines are way over built. The first time I saw piston oilers it was in a 5000 hp stationary diesel. Not sure how much oil actually comes out of them but given the oil cooler and piston coolers. I imagine these engines can see some serious heat and abuse. Just a passing thought, no evidence to support it. Just by design though one would think 15 pounds of boost and some extra fuel would almost make these old coal rollers happier.
