I know how people hate asking questions that may have been asked before but after two weeks of search and finding nothing I have to ask.

When swapping out the front end with the crown vic front and bagging it does anyone know if it will lay frame without z'ing the frame?

I've search everywhere and have seen only one truck do it but wasn't sure if the frame was z'd or not. If there is such a post I apologize now. Thanks for the help.

 

good luck, but the short answer is no it wont. You will need to narrow the CV clip due to the track width not allowing the wheels and tires to tuck, also depending on the year(65-66) you will have the radius arm brakets and cross member that will need to be removed and another crossmember fabbed up to replace it and keep the frame stiff. If it is a 64 and down, im not sure. I scrapped the CV front swap for a mustang II for those exact reasons. Also, the frame section under the cab could be trimmed and boxed to lay rockers but again you will have the tucking issues in the front fenders with the CV swap.

 

Great so ill have to go the expensive route to do it right. Thanks for the reply.

Do you have pics of your front end? And what kit did you use? Thanks again man.

 

I am trying to do a pretty good drop myself on my 66 F100.

I sectioned my frame 2.25 inches, and I feel that I am atleast an inch from laying frame. That is if I ever bagged my truck. This is the lowest easy you'd likely be able to go. I am on my second frame here. I speak from experience. Any more requires cutting your trans tunnel up, and that is not my style. You can do a bit over 3 with proper welding, and bracing.

As for the track width that is not a deal breaker as I thought it was last week. Most new cars run the same bolt-pattern as the CV or Mustang. So you can grab take off Altima rims or Fusion rims, and they are inset enough to really get low. Plus these cars are heavy enough so they will work fine for glorified car status. Plus they have enough aftermarket support that wider, and staggered rims are available.

If you want to bag I would use the steel A-arms for easier bagging mods, and the reason below. Or you could use bag on shocks, but they can be a bit tight even. Plus good ones are expensive, and not as good for laying out do to limited travel.

As for Z'ing a F100 with CV front end is a no go with out further mods. You'd need to shorten the rear portion of the arm 2 inches as it really close to the cab mounts. So if your going to Z you'd need to move, and modify the forward cab mounts.

If your goal is to lay frame I think a Jag swap is your best plan. Its K member is flatter, and offers a narrower track width. Plus it is steel so you could narrow it even further if need be. Something that is really hard for the average guy with the CV's cast aluminum K member. Plus you can score a whole Jag for $500, and have the IRS too. Then scrape what you don't use, and recoup some money. The jag only needs the hub turned down a couple thousandths as it is already the Chevy pattern rims are quite available.

Lastly depending on how low you really want to go a SBC maybe in your future. This is because of the rear oil sump, and this saves tons of headaches. Even a rear sump 302 which is the easiest to do will require more mods to lay out. I am using a FE, and thought about a 302 to save some troubles. None the less my FE was in awesome shape, and would be a shame to get rid of it. Especially when I do not intend to lay out. My goal is more of a 60's period concept, with about 5 inches of frame height.

 

If i did a tubular ms2 kit wouldn't that be the easiest? Maybe not the cheapest but easiest?

 

No it wouldn't be the easiest. It requires just as much fabbing as a CV or Jag.

Plus it is stupid expensive for what you get. $3500 or so for one with tubular arms, and another $1000 or so for properly sized brakes.