Yet another leaf spring thread
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NH
I dont mind a stiffer ride I just dont want it to be stiff to the point of becoming a dump truck
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Media PA
If you plow I would suggest the X code for the front, yeah they will stiffen up the ride but they are the factory spec for plow prep. Ride stiffness/firmness is all very subjective and personal, you have to decide on what you are willing to live with. Brent is correct that adding longer shackles will increase ride height and maintain your current ride, only issues I see with that are you say your buggy is all over the road now and with that heavy plow and shackles you will be right back where you are now without the plow, bottoming out on every bump. Even with an add a aleaf and the shackles you may still make frame contact with the plow on, those can be heavy.
I'm happy with my Modded X/B codes, the ride is a good bit more firm but thats fine with me, I'm sure some folks wouldn't like it.
If you get used springs the only way to verify the "code" is to see the door jamb sticker from the donor truck, the numbers stamped on the springs don't always tell the tale.
I'm happy with my Modded X/B codes, the ride is a good bit more firm but thats fine with me, I'm sure some folks wouldn't like it.
If you get used springs the only way to verify the "code" is to see the door jamb sticker from the donor truck, the numbers stamped on the springs don't always tell the tale.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
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From: Concord, NH
Just got quoted for x codes and b codes. $75 a piece.
I've only seen here people putting combinations of X and C or V and B.
Can I do X codes in the front and B codes in the rear?
I've only seen here people putting combinations of X and C or V and B.
Can I do X codes in the front and B codes in the rear?
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,049
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From: Media PA
Modded X/B worked out well for my EX!
What is the source of your springs? Can you verify codes with a door jamb sticker? $300 sounds like a decent deal for not too tired used springs.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Concord, NH
Got quoted from a local junkyard. I questioned how they determine the codes and they said the door jamb sticker. I didnt ask how many miles on the rear but he said the front has 111k.
I figured 111k miles on X codes for $150 is still probably a pretty good upgrade compared to my 170k miles stock that already ate up the bump stops.. lol
I figured 111k miles on X codes for $150 is still probably a pretty good upgrade compared to my 170k miles stock that already ate up the bump stops.. lol
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NH
yours looks A LOT higher than mine. do you have any details of your springs upgrade?
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Media PA
I have several threads here about my swap, search my name with "springs" and you will have plenty to read. For a quick rundown of my spring swap check out the X code thread you mentioned in the first post on this thread, I discuss my mods in posts #167, 170 and 189.
This pic shows what I used for the X code mod, I took the top overload off the new B code rears and added it to the bottom of the front X codes.
Top pack is a stock B code, middle is a stock X code and bottom is my modded X code with the little B code top overload added to it.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Concord, NH
sorry for all the questions guys.. Trying to wrap it all up in my head.
so whats the difference between the stock x codes vs the modded x codes?
what about the stock b codes and the modded b codes?
I'm almost done with all the questions... I got most of it all figured out I guess
so whats the difference between the stock x codes vs the modded x codes?
what about the stock b codes and the modded b codes?
I'm almost done with all the questions... I got most of it all figured out I guess
Last edited by MalwareDRay; Sep 12, 2013 at 10:47 AM. Reason: added stuff
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Concord, NH
oh wow.. I feel silly. I referred back to the posts you mentioned and all my answers were right there again.
So to recap.. here's what I'm thinking on doing. Let me know guys if I got this wrong?
Front: Modded X codes by taking top overload from b code and slapping it on the bottom of this pack. Will have additional lift gain and wont have so many trashed parts. why not go for extra lift if I'll already have the parts right?
Rear: Modded B codes. Add leaves from the Ex's original spring pack onto the B codes and remove top overload. Also, use the F250 tapered block (3.75" right?) that way I make sure (hopefully) the truck will be level.
After all is said and done, possibly add a rear sway bar if I decide I need more. LOL.
I noticed I'll need C clamps.. somehow mine disappeared.
I guess I'll need new u bolts. Can anyone tell me which ones to get? That is something I got confused about.
Seeing that most people are netting around 3" lift with these two mods and how destroyed mine are, I'll probably gain about 4-5" I'm guessing.. Either way is fine. Although I would like to gain lift, I really jsut want to fix the boat and not sound like I'm about to snap my suspension when driving into my road.
Now.. if I do get too much of a lift (5"+), I guess I'll have to tell the wife the garage is run down and needs to be rebuilt.. LOL
Again. Thank you everyone for the help!
Let me know your thoughts or if I missed something.
So to recap.. here's what I'm thinking on doing. Let me know guys if I got this wrong?
Front: Modded X codes by taking top overload from b code and slapping it on the bottom of this pack. Will have additional lift gain and wont have so many trashed parts. why not go for extra lift if I'll already have the parts right?
Rear: Modded B codes. Add leaves from the Ex's original spring pack onto the B codes and remove top overload. Also, use the F250 tapered block (3.75" right?) that way I make sure (hopefully) the truck will be level.
After all is said and done, possibly add a rear sway bar if I decide I need more. LOL.
I noticed I'll need C clamps.. somehow mine disappeared.
I guess I'll need new u bolts. Can anyone tell me which ones to get? That is something I got confused about.
Seeing that most people are netting around 3" lift with these two mods and how destroyed mine are, I'll probably gain about 4-5" I'm guessing.. Either way is fine. Although I would like to gain lift, I really jsut want to fix the boat and not sound like I'm about to snap my suspension when driving into my road.
Now.. if I do get too much of a lift (5"+), I guess I'll have to tell the wife the garage is run down and needs to be rebuilt.. LOL
Again. Thank you everyone for the help!
Let me know your thoughts or if I missed something.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Parker, CO
MalwareDRay, just a quick comment.
I mean absolutely no offense to 2000exPSD when I say this. He's had a heck of a time with his Excursion and getting springs sorted out. His car was not stock he started his X code project and as a result, it was pretty hard to get everything working correctly. I believe he now has X code springs with an aftermarket front leaf spring bracket that was probably originally intended to level the front of a stock Excursion. That bracket ended up giving a few more inches of lift and he had to basically redo or replace a lot of front components as a result. Anyhow, don't necessarily follow his front setup (shock length, etc). Its not a typical X code swap. His rear spring setup is a mystery too.
Now, WE3ZS on the other hand, has a lot of experience with this. His X code swap isn't 100% typical either because he added that small leaf, but his setup will be very similar to yours. So, follow his advice on anything related to shocks, track bar, pitman arm, etc.
I mean absolutely no offense to 2000exPSD when I say this. He's had a heck of a time with his Excursion and getting springs sorted out. His car was not stock he started his X code project and as a result, it was pretty hard to get everything working correctly. I believe he now has X code springs with an aftermarket front leaf spring bracket that was probably originally intended to level the front of a stock Excursion. That bracket ended up giving a few more inches of lift and he had to basically redo or replace a lot of front components as a result. Anyhow, don't necessarily follow his front setup (shock length, etc). Its not a typical X code swap. His rear spring setup is a mystery too.
Now, WE3ZS on the other hand, has a lot of experience with this. His X code swap isn't 100% typical either because he added that small leaf, but his setup will be very similar to yours. So, follow his advice on anything related to shocks, track bar, pitman arm, etc.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,049
Likes: 1,546
From: Media PA
oh wow.. I feel silly. I referred back to the posts you mentioned and all my answers were right there again. No problem, most folks here are here to help however they can.
So to recap.. here's what I'm thinking on doing. Let me know guys if I got this wrong?
Front: Modded X codes by taking top overload from b code Not all B codes have the top overload but most do. and slapping it on the bottom of this pack. Will have additional lift gain and wont have so many trashed parts. why not go for extra lift if I'll already have the parts right? That was my thinking when I did mine.
Rear: Modded B codes. Add leaves from the Ex's original spring pack onto the B codes and remove top overload. You will also want to use the thicker spacer between the leaves from the EX pack. Also, use the F250 tapered block (3.75" right?) that way I make sure (hopefully) the truck will be level. Should be pretty close to level, I added the extra goodies because I wanted to sit level while towing our ToyHauler with 1400lbs of tongue weight. It worked out nearly perfect.
After all is said and done, possibly add a rear sway bar if I decide I need more. LOL. With the heavier springs you most likely won't need the sway bar, I added mine before the springs to help control that heavy trailer I pull.
I noticed I'll need C clamps.. somehow mine disappeared. Yeah, at least two good C-clamps 4"-6" ones work well.
I guess I'll need new u bolts. Can anyne tell me which ones to get? That is something I got confused about. I had a local spring shop make me new ones, I took in my old ones and asked for new ones just like these but _" longer. Cost me about $60 with new nuts.
Seeing that most people are netting around 3" lift with these two mods and how destroyed mine are, I'll probably gain about 4-5" I'm guessing.. Either way is fine. Although I would like to gain lift, I really jsut want to fix the boat and not sound like I'm about to snap my suspension when driving into my road. This swap should stop all of your bottoming out........forever!
Now.. if I do get too much of a lift (5"+), I guess I'll have to tell the wife the garage is run down and needs to be rebuilt.. LOL Sounds like a plan, we will need pictures of both the spring swap and garage rebuild.
Again. Thank you everyone for the help!
Let me know your thoughts or if I missed something. Just remember you are swapping in BEEFED UP 1 TON SPRINGS, the EX will ride much more firm than before. For a daily driver this is something to consider, you said you didn't want it to ride like a dumptruck, it might feel a little like that. My EX sees very little daily driver use.
So to recap.. here's what I'm thinking on doing. Let me know guys if I got this wrong?
Front: Modded X codes by taking top overload from b code Not all B codes have the top overload but most do. and slapping it on the bottom of this pack. Will have additional lift gain and wont have so many trashed parts. why not go for extra lift if I'll already have the parts right? That was my thinking when I did mine.
Rear: Modded B codes. Add leaves from the Ex's original spring pack onto the B codes and remove top overload. You will also want to use the thicker spacer between the leaves from the EX pack. Also, use the F250 tapered block (3.75" right?) that way I make sure (hopefully) the truck will be level. Should be pretty close to level, I added the extra goodies because I wanted to sit level while towing our ToyHauler with 1400lbs of tongue weight. It worked out nearly perfect.
After all is said and done, possibly add a rear sway bar if I decide I need more. LOL. With the heavier springs you most likely won't need the sway bar, I added mine before the springs to help control that heavy trailer I pull.
I noticed I'll need C clamps.. somehow mine disappeared. Yeah, at least two good C-clamps 4"-6" ones work well.
I guess I'll need new u bolts. Can anyne tell me which ones to get? That is something I got confused about. I had a local spring shop make me new ones, I took in my old ones and asked for new ones just like these but _" longer. Cost me about $60 with new nuts.
Seeing that most people are netting around 3" lift with these two mods and how destroyed mine are, I'll probably gain about 4-5" I'm guessing.. Either way is fine. Although I would like to gain lift, I really jsut want to fix the boat and not sound like I'm about to snap my suspension when driving into my road. This swap should stop all of your bottoming out........forever!
Now.. if I do get too much of a lift (5"+), I guess I'll have to tell the wife the garage is run down and needs to be rebuilt.. LOL Sounds like a plan, we will need pictures of both the spring swap and garage rebuild.
Again. Thank you everyone for the help!
Let me know your thoughts or if I missed something. Just remember you are swapping in BEEFED UP 1 TON SPRINGS, the EX will ride much more firm than before. For a daily driver this is something to consider, you said you didn't want it to ride like a dumptruck, it might feel a little like that. My EX sees very little daily driver use.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
OK...let's see full disclosure here though - you did X codes and had no idea you already had lift shackles on...so before you sell him the X code route and lift numbers, be sure you tell him what you had prior.