Rear antilock?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
I agree with many of the above, I much prefer the control of not having ABS. I know how to threshold brake and it's been shown to have better stopping distance. ABS is for panicky women that can't drive. It would be really nice however to have some brake proportioning for load weight differences.
Uhm no, there is nothing in the RABS system that is left right. There is one speed sensor on the ring gear, and one valve that pulses BOTH rear wheels at the same time.
according to my Ford book the light comes on when one side is getting less pressure than the other.I.E. leaking wheel cylinder or uneven brake wear.The solution is to fix the issue then to have an assistant pump pedal as if you were bleeding the brakes but you crack the lines as the pedal depresses if you have the right line cracked the light should go out. At the exact moment the light goes out you need to tighten the line and stop depressing the pedal.There is a needle inside the valve that needs to be centered this is what activates the light.
Posting Guru
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From: VA
Yep, the same reason we have big brake boosters too, haha. For the soccer moms
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
I would hate to drive my F350 without power steering or power brakes but ours has the right feel. On the other hand I see no point in a mid size or smaller car having power brakes or steering, they don't need it, and it just ruins the handling.
In order to threshold brake and steer you need the feedback in the brake pedal and steering wheel without it you might as well drive by remote control.
I've driven/owned everything from old full size heavy duty trucks to little sports cars without power steering or brakes and while the trucks could have been better my jeep and all my cars except my 65 T-bird were much better off without that stuff. But I doubt it's even possible anymore to buy a new car without power steering and brakes.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2011
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I've had the same problem with the RABS on my '92 flare side. I replaced the RABS sensor located on the top of the differential, but that didn't do anything to fix the problem. It's not something I notice often, but in moments just like today where somebody decided to lock it down in front of me and my rear end slid into the opposite lane... that's when I think having my rear abs working wouldn't be so bad.
Posting Guru
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From: VA
I've had the same problem with the RABS on my '92 flare side. I replaced the RABS sensor located on the top of the differential, but that didn't do anything to fix the problem. It's not something I notice often, but in moments just like today where somebody decided to lock it down in front of me and my rear end slid into the opposite lane... that's when I think having my rear abs working wouldn't be so bad.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,492
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
I've had the same problem with the RABS on my '92 flare side. I replaced the RABS sensor located on the top of the differential, but that didn't do anything to fix the problem. It's not something I notice often, but in moments just like today where somebody decided to lock it down in front of me and my rear end slid into the opposite lane... that's when I think having my rear abs working wouldn't be so bad.
that sounds like improperly adjusted rear brakes, not an abs issue.
all my vehicles will track straight as an arrow when i lock up the brakes.
Posting Guru
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From: VA
Agreed completely. My truck also tracks straight if I lock the brakes.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
My '95 usually tracked straight in a full-on panic stop. But with the RABS what would happen was the front wheels would lock and the rear would keep rolling (unless I backed off the brakes to unlock the front, which I usually did).
But one of the two odd situations where it didn't track straight was on a snow-covered dirt road. The road was crowned and the skidding front tires started downhill toward the ditch. That turned the truck toward the ditch and the rolling rear tires just followed happily along. All 4 wheels locked would have made the whole truck slide sideways toward the ditch, but without turning to point into it. So the RABS didn't really make anything worse, it just was unexpected compared to no ABS or 4 wheel ABS.
The other odd situation was when I nailed the brakes when I was already in a spin. The front wheels locked and started going in a straight line in the direction I was basically going. Meanwhile the rolling rear wheels didn't want to go sideways, so they straightened the truck out. Almost immediately the spin was corrected and I was tracking straight ahead. Cool!
But one of the two odd situations where it didn't track straight was on a snow-covered dirt road. The road was crowned and the skidding front tires started downhill toward the ditch. That turned the truck toward the ditch and the rolling rear tires just followed happily along. All 4 wheels locked would have made the whole truck slide sideways toward the ditch, but without turning to point into it. So the RABS didn't really make anything worse, it just was unexpected compared to no ABS or 4 wheel ABS.
The other odd situation was when I nailed the brakes when I was already in a spin. The front wheels locked and started going in a straight line in the direction I was basically going. Meanwhile the rolling rear wheels didn't want to go sideways, so they straightened the truck out. Almost immediately the spin was corrected and I was tracking straight ahead. Cool!
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Auburn, OH
On the same subject of the RABS valve, anyone know where to get the fittings for this? The line from my master cylinder to my control valve rusted out and when I tried to pull it off I stripped the fitting on the line. I ended up pulling the fitting from the valve control valve and even with the fitting from the line in a vice and a wrench on the fitting from the valve I just keep turning down the line fitting without it breaking free. I don't want to drop $135 into a new control valve just because the line rusted.
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: VA
On the same subject of the RABS valve, anyone know where to get the fittings for this? The line from my master cylinder to my control valve rusted out and when I tried to pull it off I stripped the fitting on the line. I ended up pulling the fitting from the valve control valve and even with the fitting from the line in a vice and a wrench on the fitting from the valve I just keep turning down the line fitting without it breaking free. I don't want to drop $135 into a new control valve just because the line rusted.
Thanks
Thanks
My NAPA store has been great with hard to find items and custom hoses and stuff.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Elk City, OK
That's a good point. I didn't even think to check the brake fluid. I will do that and report back.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Agawam, MA
Heyas
Here is what happens with my RABS. The light has always gone on/off randomly. The truck has always stopped fine but was a little weak wich only meant I pushed farther. I think the problem was the rear brakes were not agjusted properly (tight enoug). I did my front Ujoint the other day and compressed my brake caliper with a vice. I drove the truck and when I hit the brakes it would stop with a tap of the brakes and I heard a swoosh coming from the floor wich sounded like a vacum leak coming from what I think is the master cylinder. I did adjust the rear brakes and bleed all brakes and RABS in proper order. It still did the same thing. I imagine debre got into the RABS but do not no for sure. I got under the truck and hit the RABS with a hammer and it seams to be better. Someone spoke about a spring, is it located on the top end of the RABS and can I take it out and put back in while still on the rail? I have front airbag frame over one of the bold that holds the RABS wich would be a pain to remove.
SM
Here is what happens with my RABS. The light has always gone on/off randomly. The truck has always stopped fine but was a little weak wich only meant I pushed farther. I think the problem was the rear brakes were not agjusted properly (tight enoug). I did my front Ujoint the other day and compressed my brake caliper with a vice. I drove the truck and when I hit the brakes it would stop with a tap of the brakes and I heard a swoosh coming from the floor wich sounded like a vacum leak coming from what I think is the master cylinder. I did adjust the rear brakes and bleed all brakes and RABS in proper order. It still did the same thing. I imagine debre got into the RABS but do not no for sure. I got under the truck and hit the RABS with a hammer and it seams to be better. Someone spoke about a spring, is it located on the top end of the RABS and can I take it out and put back in while still on the rail? I have front airbag frame over one of the bold that holds the RABS wich would be a pain to remove.
SM
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Elk City, OK
I know this thread is old, but I had a scare recently. There is no abs and the pedal is squishy like you describe. I was recently driving around a blind bend and I pass a sign that says the speed limit is 50. I look down at my speedo and it says 40, so I know I'm good. I look up and I'm almost to a stop sign. I floor the brake pedal and I feel the brakes lock up. I start to pump the brakes and I screeched to a halt just at the stop sign. I narrowly miss a brand new suburban full of kids. I know this truck is huge and it won't stop on a dime, but it took a lot longer to stop than it should have. This is unsafe and it will be addressed immediately. I will soon try the stuff you mentioned and report back. Thanks for your help
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: SW Florida
but I don't think having RABS would've helped.All antiskid does is make sure you don't spin out if you're braking in a turn. It does NOT reduce braking distance compared to a good driver using threshold braking.
The trick is to not release the pedal completely... everyone says pump it but that's why your braking distance goes up. Mash that sucker down til the wheels lock up, back off just enough they start rolling again, and that's all the braking you're gonna get. RABS or even 4 wheel ABS does the same exact thing... dumps brake pressure off til the wheels start rolling again, then maintains that level of brake application.