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I have an 87 6.9 and the previous owner has it wired on a push button to start. I was putting in a new glow plug relay and I'm wiring it off of a push button as well. The problem is when I hook my Batteries up the electric fuel pump turns on. I know I need a key on 12v for it to work. Second question is I think my ignition switch is messed up. Should you be able to turn it one click then the start or 2 clicks then start? I can only turn mine one and the key is also stuck in the ignition. Thanks or any help
Ok that brings me to another question. I went to hook up the batteries and fuel fuel pump kicked on and I found that its wires to the wire on the injection pump closest to the front of the motor. Why would this wire be hot at all times? I need to find a better key on wire to wire it to
Ok that brings me to another question. I went to hook up the batteries and fuel fuel pump kicked on and I found that its wires to the wire on the injection pump closest to the front of the motor. Why would this wire be hot at all times? I need to find a better key on wire to wire it to
It's probably hooked to the fuel shutoff solenoid wire on the injection pump. +12V on that wire holds the solenoid in the injection pump open and lets fuel flow. Remove the wire, the solenoid closes and the truck stops running.
Agreed, the fuel pump should be run to a relay and from there to a fused connection directly to the battery. It should not be daisy-chained to the fuel shutoff solenoid wire.
Still confused. When i hooked the batteries up with the key off the fuel shut switch still had 12v? Not sure how. Also the drivers side battery doesnt have a ground, i will be getting a cable to put on it but would this mess with my wiring? Also when i hooked my GPR and realized that what i did had to be wrong (i found it on the internet) but doesnt make any sense. How exactly should this be hooked up to run off a switch? thanks
Your key is stuck in the switch because you can't turn it to the off position. Therefore you have only on and start left. So the fuel shutoff switch is energized because your ignition is on.
Fix that ignition switch and then either wire that e-pump correct or ditch it and go back to manual.
If its just the switch thats bad can i just push the little tab, pull out the ignition and replace it without pulling the steering wheel?
Can you get to the locking tab without pulling the wheel? I'm pretty sure you need to pull the wheel, but I guess if there's a way to get to the tab you might get around it.
Before you pull the ignition lock, you might try the switch itself, it's located on top of the column and a rod runs from the ignition lock to the switch. Check to see if it's binding or something's not allowing the lock to return to the off position.
For whatever reason the key/lock just wont go back any further then apparently the on position. Maybe i will have to pull the wheel to get to it, i thought i saw i video where you may be able to get to it with the wheel on but il find out tonight. I bought a new cylinder lock anyway since its not a bad idea to replace and cheap enough. Is it possible to get the wheels off without a puller? Im gona have to find one of those.
Sometimes you can get lucky and not need the puller. Pullers are pretty cheap @ HF if you have one nearby.
Loosen and back off, but do not remove, the steering wheel to shaft nut. While pulling towards you on the wheel tap the end of the shaft with a hammer. Be careful not to mushroom the end of the shaft. If it's not stuck on tight it should pop off.
Found the problem! Turns out the tranny shifter wasent going into park. I followed the linkage down and it wasent even hooked up right. The PO really didn't know what he was doing. Now the ignition works great and the GPR works great. Time to put the turbo back on. Thank for te help!
Haha yea its great, Oh one other question while im at it. The drivers side battery didnt have a ground cable on it when i bought it, wheres the best place to ground it? The block, or frame somewhere?
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