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I need some help guys,The story
Just the other day I started my 06 f350 6.0 which has a egr deleted brand new oil cooler and both HPOP's and it had a occasional miss with the typical #5 or 6 Injector balance default code on my Edge so I had a guy put a injector in but that wasnt it and he said its backfiring through the intake and low compression on that cylinder #5 or 6,Now he wants to charge me 4,500 for a head gasket and stud job plus whatever he says a machine shop would be to do a exploratory on whats wrong with it,Other people have said that they dont think its a head removal issue most likely a broken valve spring or even a bent pushrod
....
I dont have the cash for that expensive of a repair and will have to do this myself so please guys help me figure out whats wrong I have allready figured out that I bought a lemon(8k in repairs to date in less then a year) and just need to fix it to trade on another Powerstroke or a Cummins
I would fix what you have if it's a nice truck, it only going to cost you more on another used truck unless your going to buy new. Stay away from the come a parts they aren't all they say and have their own issues.......just my 2 cents
Put shop air on suspect cylinder through glow plug hole and listen for leaks. Burnt, bent, broken valves will show up easily. Bent push rod isn't the issue. Broken valve spring-maybe but very unlikely. You can pull valve cover to inspect springs. Bent valve stem may be binding in valve guide also. All this stuff usually happens when an object like a bolt or injector tip gets loose in the cylinder.
I'd do a bit of checking first but unfortunately I agree, the head(s) is more than likely going to have to come off.
Ok thanks i am bringing it home tomorrow and will open it up this Sunday to check those things and if it is the head it will just have to sit till i can afford to have the head done
I will 3rd the Dodge deal Had a Dakota Brand NEW 2003 (6 or 7 Miles on it when I got) and Lots of parts went out Like steering Collums,Balljoints,sensors and the Rear Main Seal was the Final Straw
Hell it was still in the 3/36 warrenty when I traded it
It Had a Service 4X4 LIGHT Turn On within 20 Miles so that would have been only well the Next A.M. on the Way to work it turned on
Didn't even have it 12hours LOL and Service Vehicle Lights were On
Put shop air on suspect cylinder through glow plug hole and listen for leaks. Burnt, bent, broken valves will show up easily. Bent push rod isn't the issue. Broken valve spring-maybe but very unlikely. You can pull valve cover to inspect springs. Bent valve stem may be binding in valve guide also. All this stuff usually happens when an object like a bolt or injector tip gets loose in the cylinder.
I'd do a bit of checking first but unfortunately I agree, the head(s) is more than likely going to have to come off.
He Must Test at TDC (Top Dead Center) For this Test or Close
Just by the information provided by the OP, it is very evident that a base engine issue exists causing a cylinder's exhaust valve not to open. This can be caused by either a bent pushtube and/or broken rocker arm.
Mike, being I advised just the opposite above, how does that work? I was thinking a backfire in the intake would require an intake valve to be open (or damaged).
No Rusty, if the intake valve is not opening the compression has no other place to go but through the intake. This is what makes the poping noise that he is hearing. It could be a bad lifter or cam shaft too.
Well, obviously I have a misconception about this situation. I don't doubt anything m-chan posts, Hopefully I'm not too old to learn something.
Per4mance, if the intake valve isn't open (or damaged) how does the compression get from the cylinder back into the intake manifold? Or are you talking about compression from the turbo?
The only thing I can think is maybe the exhaust valve not opening is delaying the combustion long enough for the piston to get over TDC and it's still lit when the intake valve opens?
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