flathead block id.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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flathead block id.
Hi FTE Members. I have a flathead block that I can't id. It is a 3 3/16" bore x 3 3/4" stroke . Cast into the bell end of the block is D2994. On the top of the block, passenger side rear is a stamped 8, then a boxed in 40, then a 3. It is a 24 head bolt engine. The distributor is in the front of the block. I can't find any info to help me. Most websites related to flathead block id. Say that ford used letters to id the date on manufacture. Thanks for any help.
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest MT
If the water outlets are at the front of the heads, it is a 8ba style, (with several small variations) made from 49-53. What letters are on the center of the heads?
Those numbers you mentioned don't mean anything as far as ID.
Those numbers you mentioned don't mean anything as far as ID.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Crossville, Tn
Hi FTE Members. I have a flathead block that I can't id. It is a 3 3/16" bore x 3 3/4" stroke . Cast into the bell end of the block is D2994. On the top of the block, passenger side rear is a stamped 8, then a boxed in 40, then a 3. It is a 24 head bolt engine. The distributor is in the front of the block. I can't find any info to help me. Most websites related to flathead block id. Say that ford used letters to id the date on manufacture. Thanks for any help.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
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From: Crossville, Tn
I don't see the boxed 40 your talking about. Are you sure it is a 40 and not a 48? I have a 48 block and it differs from the pattern as it has a boxed 48 on it. Also, it looks like a faint G2 to the right.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Mine has similar gibberish on the intake deck, I don't believe they have anything to do with date stamping.
You can tell a few things about date from some internals, IF they are original. There were two types of valves and valve keepers, a change made about '50. (parts 6534 below) It was made in conjunction with the elimination of hardened valve seats. Other than that, all 48-53 blocks are "correct". Strictly speaking, 8RT heads would be "most correct", but they are lousy heads.
You can tell a few things about date from some internals, IF they are original. There were two types of valves and valve keepers, a change made about '50. (parts 6534 below) It was made in conjunction with the elimination of hardened valve seats. Other than that, all 48-53 blocks are "correct". Strictly speaking, 8RT heads would be "most correct", but they are lousy heads.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Crossville, Tn
Ross, I have had a 48, 2-50's and a 53, they all had the date codes stamped there. The 48 was different as it actually had the 48 in a box and then the month and day stamps.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Columbus, IN
Just out of curiosity, why were 8RT heads lousy? When I rebuilt my flathead in '92, I opted to not clean up the old 8BA heads, and ordered a set of NOS 8RT heads from Carpenter's (you could get both the right and left back then).
Other than the fact that the 8RT heads have "Made In Canada" cast into them, they look identical. I have also never had any problems with them.
Other than the fact that the 8RT heads have "Made In Canada" cast into them, they look identical. I have also never had any problems with them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2005
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Always been a grey area. When these ruled at the time all of us in the machine
community thought of all FoMoco numbers worthless. Unlike Chry. & Gm you could just about peg the month by engine numbers. Then the "time lag" thing,
here 90% were made here in the Sommerville plant, the old man had lots of
buddies that worked there. Engines shipped by rail from the Rouge plant, most
logical to buy a new say 1950 and the engine actually was made in 1949. Or
were new cast blocks to sit out side for a year to cook? like Ts? Today a different story working on new or late stuff > its wise to go to Napa with your
serial no. I got one under my bench been there 45yrs, Mercury head one side
8RT the other ? So its a 49-53 but what, only way is to mic it. Dont be surprized
to find chevy valves in flatheads that was common practice just cause they
happened to be on the shelf. so I would'nt loose sleep on engine numbers.
And then I will add, any flathead we now do, we go to local New Holland dealer and use tractor parts such as valve guides all sixteen
intakes are used, but these are genuine parts not aftermaket.
community thought of all FoMoco numbers worthless. Unlike Chry. & Gm you could just about peg the month by engine numbers. Then the "time lag" thing,
here 90% were made here in the Sommerville plant, the old man had lots of
buddies that worked there. Engines shipped by rail from the Rouge plant, most
logical to buy a new say 1950 and the engine actually was made in 1949. Or
were new cast blocks to sit out side for a year to cook? like Ts? Today a different story working on new or late stuff > its wise to go to Napa with your
serial no. I got one under my bench been there 45yrs, Mercury head one side
8RT the other ? So its a 49-53 but what, only way is to mic it. Dont be surprized
to find chevy valves in flatheads that was common practice just cause they
happened to be on the shelf. so I would'nt loose sleep on engine numbers.
And then I will add, any flathead we now do, we go to local New Holland dealer and use tractor parts such as valve guides all sixteen
intakes are used, but these are genuine parts not aftermaket.
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Junior User
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All, thanks for your help. With your help we have narrowed the engine down to a 1948-50 8BA unless I misunderstood something.
It has a 3 3/16" bore x 3 3/4" stroke, hardened valve seat inserts, one piece valve spring heads, water outlet at the front of 8BA heads and the distributor in the front right of the engine. With the hardened valve seat inserts this should be a good block to rebuild for any 48-53 ford or mercury, correct? If I build it with the correct heads, intake and crank.
It has a 3 3/16" bore x 3 3/4" stroke, hardened valve seat inserts, one piece valve spring heads, water outlet at the front of 8BA heads and the distributor in the front right of the engine. With the hardened valve seat inserts this should be a good block to rebuild for any 48-53 ford or mercury, correct? If I build it with the correct heads, intake and crank.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,283
Likes: 1,046
From: NM
Assuming it isn't cracked, it's a good block.
8RT heads have lower compression ratio than 8BA or EAB heads. Some other features of the combustion chambers are less desirable. EAB are the best stock heads, but are not correct for any trucks except perhaps '53's.
It's always been a big debate whether all trucks came with 8RT heads. Several people on here have trucks believed to be untouched originals, with 8BA heads. It's not documented by Ford, and seems to vary a lot by assembly plant.
8RT heads have lower compression ratio than 8BA or EAB heads. Some other features of the combustion chambers are less desirable. EAB are the best stock heads, but are not correct for any trucks except perhaps '53's.
It's always been a big debate whether all trucks came with 8RT heads. Several people on here have trucks believed to be untouched originals, with 8BA heads. It's not documented by Ford, and seems to vary a lot by assembly plant.
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