the above mentioned 96' Ranger was purchased in April of this year from a car lot that had had the truck for several months to maybe years. After the purchase and a title search i found that ythere were only 3 previous owners before the car lot. The ranger ran like a dream even for the over 225k miles on the motor. I systematically diagnosed and fixed the most urgent hvac, vacumn, electrical, and lighting troubles quickly after purchase. All problems relatively minor except for a complete brake overhaul for over $500. I bought a 2000 excursion and Ranger sat for the majority of the time. I was religous about going out and starting it and running errands or something when i could to make sure all was right. Never a lick of problems, in fact the truck was nicknamed "cream-puff" because she purred like a kitten drove like a dream, and the a/c blew ice cold. What more could you ask for for the $1800 price we paid??? Well the Excursion i mentioned earlier had an electrical fire due to the voltage regulator malfunctioning and i was forced to drive Ranger to town about 35 miles away. Normal Texas evening, temperatures in low to upper 90's. I had no problems there but when I stopped at truck stop for beverages etc... i left the truck running with a kid in rear seat to guard our packages in the bed. When i came out several minutes later the truck smelled horribly of antifreeze, the temperature gauge was pegged out, and antifreeze blowing from under rad. cap. I have replaced the thermostat, flushed the system 2x, refilled with antifreeze, and checked specific gravity, and the mix is right where it should be. the only other variable is when i started the flushing i accidentally broke the hvac bypass on the lines from the heater core. i have replaced with new, but have removed recently trying to isolate my problem. Which is: truck is still overheating, no pressure gets to top hose until the truck is showing 3/4's hot on gauge, and when it does fill it immediately runs up to top of heat gauge and i have to shut down and start all over hours later when it cools. No coolant loss is happening, and there are no immediate signs the water pump or fan clutch is failing. There is no water or antifreeze on oil dipstick, no burned antifreeze white smoke from exhaust pipe. A couple of other side notes are the previous "cream-puff" now has developed a rough idle and almost tries to die constantly, and if and when you squeeze top hose to check for temperature and flow it almost kills the engine....every time??? very lost, very stressed (as i need to sell asap to pay rent and catch up on bills as i have been laid off a job of 8 yrs. and still unemployed since i purchased the ranger in April). I need help and fast. I just cant pass on this problem to someone just to sell truck. Not the way i was raised, and its been done to me and i know how it feels. so please, any help would be much appreciated from a father of four in need, but with a conscience to a fault! Thanks

 

Head gasket failure.

 

sounds like a blown head gasket to me. but I've been wrong before.

take the thermostat out, take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop to be flushed out or do it at home to save money. run the truck with just water in the cooling system check for combustion gases in the cooling system, run the engine without the radiator cap, are there bubbles in the coolant even though the engine has been running for a short time?

If bubble, that defines blown head gasket.

You can still drive it, just not very far before it over heats but short trips with a long break, say to work and back home should get you a few more miles out of your ranger.

 

I would take out the thermostat and check that it works in a pan of water. If it won't let coolant into the top {return} hose, the the tiny bleed hole is plugged or it is not the correct thermostat. You should be able to fill the whole system, top to bottom, with the engine off. Coolant would then expand into the overflow/expansion tank as it heated.
A leaking head gasket will many times make the radiator hoses very hard and incompressible as the gas is driven into the coolant passages.
This problem could have been 'hiding' for as long as you've owned the truck, as you've never really put a stress on the cooling system until now. When you replaced the stat, did you happen to look inside the intake to see if it was full of crud or clean? You may have dislodged some crud buildup, and it may be blocking coolant flow.
I think your thermostat is dysfunctional or the wrong item. It should open at 195F, and the gauge would be in the 'normal' range when it opened. The hoses should be full. If not, you don't have enough coolant in the system.
tom

 

Get a test strip to check for exhaust Gas in coolant

 

Welcome to FTE.

I like all of the thoughts thus far.

What kind of shape was the coolant in when it over heated the first time????

When you replaced the thermostat, as tomw asked, did you use the specified temp range Motorcraft one, or a like design that has the air bleed valve, as it'll make burping the system of air much easier.

Also raising the front end & with the heater return hose loose at the firewall connection when refilling the system, will help get the air out of the heater core. Leave the front end elevated after filling, start the engine & run it with the front end elevated until the thermostat opens, so any remaining air bubbles can migrate to the radiator to be burped out & the system topped off by the radiator cap & over flow tank coolant reservoir after it cools. If you'll mark the coolant tank level, you'll know if it burped after cooling. You may have to run a couple of warm up/cool down cycles with it elevated to get a good air burp & if the coolant tank level doesn't drop, you'll know you did.

Are you certain the radiator cap is the proper one, is sealing well & that the system is holding pressure????

If the coolant was in bad shape, so too could the water pump impeller blades & if eroded, circulation at idle could suffer!!!!

Make certain the serp belt is good & the belt tensioner is indicating tension is within range on its molded in tension range marks.

If all that's ok, make sure the fan clutch is functioning ok, so that at idle its providing good air flow. Seeing as how it sets some, also check for air flow problems/obstructions through the AC condenser & space between it & the radiator & the radiator fins. Plastic bags, mud, grass clippings, leaves, varmint nests, ect, can find their way in there & cause mischief.

More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

If your head gasket didn't cause this its sure a factor now. Overheating causes head gasket failure. Make sure to check the fan and water pump, but my guess is regardless the head gasket is probably already toast.

 

OK sorry i have been having internet troubles.... that,s horse****...I couldn't pay for it. But I am back on for now. OK here i go: the radiator before all this was not that bad. still actually had a greenish red color to it before i started the flush, and yes, i did already flush system with Prestone flush kit (twice). Once with regular flush, and second time was with heavy duty flush chemical from Prestone and followed directions which said to ran in motor for roughly 2 hours (i did so while i ran errands).I then flushed completely for over 30 minutes after seeing clear water. i also verified last night there is no fluid loss at all in radiator, no leaks or red tale tale signs of previous leaks on water pump, around any hoses, thermostat housing, radiator, smoke from exhaust...nothing. there is also no bubbles in the coolant in the radiator only the swirling of coolant again... no bubbles tiny or otherwise. no the thermostat i was given as the correct fit at O'reillys was a the following thermostat Murray Standard control MCS 3199 and image has been included for review...

[IMG]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MCS1/3199.oap?
year=1996&make=Ford&model=Ranger&vi=1138092&ck=Sea rch_3199_1138092_1846&keyword=3199[/IMG]

the hoses are not hard, i think u misunderstood. the top hose is of a regular stiffness with no pressurized fluid inside and stays that way up until the point it fills then subsequently quickly overheats. as far as checking the fan clutch and the water pump is the a particular way or some guidance on how to eliminate them 100% as the culprit someone could share or has a link to? the specs on the stat do not tell me if its 195 degrees or not. i swore i was told it was 165 at time of purchase but i will check on that in a few when i go to town i will stop in and ask. i will also pull thermostat and check in water as instructed. also as far as burping the system could someone give me tips and procedures of the correct method for burping? that would alleviate that as culprit as well. as far as a blockage of sorts the stat i took out originally showed signs of temp stress but no large debris or crud was built up in motor or around stat i will included those pics as well....but i cant figure out how to as it only asks for url link and i have them saved on desktop, i am unclear how to attach a pic if someone could assist there.... rad. cap is OEM and holding. in fact when i was flushing i forgot to open petcock on radiator and blew the lid on overflow tank open spewing water everywhere (I chuckle at this memory), so cap is holding well i assure you as my "hot flush shower" that night at 1am will attest to that.

What are the test strips mentioned to check for gases called and brand name? Do they have them at O'reillys (only parts store within 35 mile radius) and what do they do exactly and what is the cost of said strips?


the pics i took are (until guidance yto post on here) are posted on my Fb page at: https://www.facebook.com/josephkyle.gothard/photos_all

TY i will try what i have discussed and welcome anymore input from anyone,

TY again!!!

 

To burp air out with cold engine park on incline (engine higher) remove rad cap ,turn heater on high, start and run till up till operating temp. Top off radiator if level drops and replace cap. The fact you say it runs rough suddenly makes me think coolant is leaking into cylinder indicating potential head gasket failure.

 

replaced tstat with new one, topped off AF and truck started up and ran like a creampuff again. tested old tstat on stove and opened at @190 degrees. ran truck into town today and left idling for over an hour with a/c on high. just an 1/8" or so above halfway mark on temp guage. came back down to the same under when under way and air through radiator again. no bubbles no debris, now not overheating AND IT WAS 103 HERE TODAY. dumbest thing i ever seen in my life!! but who cares truck sold tonight for 4k i paid 1800. thank you all for your input. now i can jump back on the excursion restoration.

 

Excelent deal

even made some money

 

Buyer never showed and tried to change the deal (amount) made and agreed for the sale and I could not just take a bath that bad,. Truck still here, working perfectly, and Still For Sale!

 

IDK what the trucks Like so don't take this to heart

But 4K for a 96 Ranger Seams High

My Foot might be Inserted in Mouth already I haven't Priced them either

Whats Kelly Blue Book Say??

 

Add:
1996 Ranger XLT - 3.0L - V6 - 2wd -Supercab - Tan on Tan color. 16" Mustang GT Alloy Rims with New Firestone 235/65/R16 All Season Touring Radial Tires in March 2013 (less than 600 miles on them) Complete Brake Overhaul (12 month /12,000 mile Nationwide Warranty. Both are Transferable Warranties. Many-Many other restored / repaired / replaced parts to list!! You REALLY must come see this truck to appreciate the time, money, and labor invested to make it unbelievable that this clean, dependable vehicle is 17 years old. Truck also has JVC radio/cd/mp3/front & rear Aux jacks(also including the just purchased new radio remote control for the new owner). Truck also has sliding back glass, new (very large) aftermarket locking center console. All receipts for the religious maintenance practiced, including recent radiator flush and new thermostat, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, you name it / I replaced it. Additionally I re-aligned the front grills, inner and outer, and fenders, as well as refinished headlight assembly lenses and front clip received fresh paint. This "Ceampuff's A/C still blows cold on the. truck even has original owners manual, the are no check engine lights, No codes being thrown, and after all this work done the truck meets original sticker ratings of 18 mpg city / 25 mpg hwy. You cant go wrong! Why?, you ask, am I getting rid of her then? Unemployed father of four that times are getting worse than tough on now! So all offers will be entertained...but please, do not disrespect me or waste my valuable time with a childish ignorant $500 offer. Serious inquiries only. In turn I promise the same and an honest effort to make the best transaction for both buyer and seller Please understand and sympathize that proceeds for the truck's sale will be God-Send monetarily, but to be clear...I WILL NOT TAKE A BATH ON THIS SALE!!! NADA is $3405 and Kelley Blue Book is $ 3506. Given the condition of the Truck I don't feel out of line with asking price. I look forward to meeting and dealing soon. call / leave msg (home phone)936-222-0808 or text 512-939-9480

pics loaded in my "creampuff" album for viewing


Repairs/Maintenance/Parts Replaced

Cruise Control cable
Alternator
Voltage Regulator
Starter
Thermostat
Coolant system flushed (HD Chem. Flush used)
Battery
Slave Cylinder leak repaired
Under hood mechanics light
Interior dome light
All old / unused wiring removed
Radiator pressure cleaned and flushed X2
Vacuum Pump System overhaul
Motor / Engine compartment cleaned & degreased
Fuel inject additive added every other oil change
Battery
Center Console
12 volt power points & outlets x2
Fog Lights
Front Clip refinished
New Headlight Bulbs (9007)
Wipers replaced every 6 month
Fuel & Air Filter changed every other oil change
Top Radiator hose & clamps
Battery Terminals, wiring & boots
Convex Mirrors installed
Tires & Stems
Complete Brake Overhaul
Transmission serviced
Rear Diff. serviced
Royal Purple anti-freeze additive
Hvac Bypass Valve
PCV / EGR Valve replaced
Oil & Filter every 3 months
Master Cylinder & Wiring Harness
Alternator Wiring Harness Pigtail
Compression Test & Fuel Pressure Test - Result OK
Drivers’ Window Handle replaced
U-Joint replaced
Vacuum Pump
A/C Serviced
State Inspection
MAF Sensor cleaned
Oxygen Sensor replaced
Throttle Body cleaned
Hood Release Cable (Still Ongoing, proving to be colossal PITA!!)

 

low side of nada was 3405 kbb was 3506