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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

390 FE Rebuild

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Rayjay69
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390 FE Rebuild

Hey all. I am looking to rebuild a 390 from a core that I have. I intend to have the heads rebuilt locally. I have a choice of three 4V cast iron intake manifolds that I have picked up here and there. One is from a truck and I have not checked the numbers on the other two yet. I intend to drive it daily so not looking to really boost the HP. But want it to have some punch. Any suggestions that can be provided for my rebuild would be extremely valuable. I can take it apart and put it together but when it comes to performance, I am in the dark. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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arctic y block
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Any cast FE intake is like HEAVY. And hard to install without kicking out the gaskets even with a hoist. That's why I have always went aluminum. And prolly why so many cast ones are out there.
Remember to use some RTV on the front and back of the intake as they are hard to get to seal.

Another trick I use is to tie like the pan and timing cover and other gaskets on with thread to hold them in place. Thread don't bother nuthin and I hate to see RTV sticking out all over.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rayjay69
Hey all. I am looking to rebuild a 390 from a core that I have. I intend to have the heads rebuilt locally. I have a choice of three 4V cast iron intake manifolds that I have picked up here and there. One is from a truck and I have not checked the numbers on the other two yet. I intend to drive it daily so not looking to really boost the HP. But want it to have some punch. Any suggestions that can be provided for my rebuild would be extremely valuable. I can take it apart and put it together but when it comes to performance, I am in the dark. Thanks!
Walk towards the light!

Go to this post in the Dentside Tech Thread Sticky and scroll down for hyperlinks to several performance FE builds: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13139591

.. and then visit Survival Motorsports with your credit card in hand!
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 05:32 PM
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Make sure the machine shop installs Hardened valve seats and valve guids in the heads. For our current gas. If not planing to haul anything heavy,I would pick the cam brand of your choice in the 270 range. 265 to 268 range if you pull horses.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 05:10 AM
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Ray, Use the one with S or T on the top if you have one, not going against the alum. recommendation just answering the question. Run a 500 cfm carb on top, nothing larger than a 600. Headers for breathing are a must, and a RV cam.



John
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Ray, Use the one with S or T on the top if you have one, not going against the alum. recommendation just answering the question. Run a 500 cfm carb on top, nothing larger than a 600. Headers for breathing are a must, and a RV cam.
John
If you go with an S intake check the size of the thermostat cause the 1967 & up had the 52/54mm size whereas the earlier 1966 had the lager hard to find thermostats, plus they had the larger thermostat housing. Some have taller port runners that don't match up with the smaller intake ports on the later heads. Just a heads up what to look for to match up to your build The T should suit your needs other then 78-80lbs you'll droping into place....
..orich
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks for all the advice guys! When I start doing the build I will make sure I start a thread to document the process. I have already seen some other good advice on other threads that I will be incorporating into my build.
 
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