from the truck owners manual, Tires and Wheel Loading, Page 258 (manual rev 4)

Procedure for adjusting GAIN:
The GAIN setting is used to set the TBC for the specific towing condition
and should be changed as towing conditions change. Changes to towing
conditions include trailer load, vehicle load, road conditions and weather.
The GAIN should be set to provide the maximum trailer braking
assistance while ensuring the trailer wheels do not lock when braking;
locked trailer wheels may lead to trailer instability.
Note:
This should only be performed in a traffic-free environment at
speeds of approximately 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h).
1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning
normally and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if necessary.
2. Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to
the trailer manufacturer’s instructions.
3. When a trailer with electric brakes is plugged in, the TRAILER CONNECTED
message displays in the instrument cluster message center.
4. Use the GAIN adjustment (+/-) buttons to increase or decrease the
GAIN setting to the desired starting point. A GAIN setting of 6.0 is a
good starting point for heavier loads.
5. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at
a speed of 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h) and squeeze the manual control
lever completely.
6. If the trailer wheels lock up (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the
GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.
Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below
trailer wheel lock-up. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lock-up
may not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting of 10.

 

thanks.. speed limited to 75 is fine. just wanted the extra speed and tire cushion.

yes, I have to check the wheels.. the trailer comes with a G tire option, so I assume (I know) that the dealer would do the proper thing. not just slap tires on any rim.

yes, we have to do some practicing on turning and backing..

thanks for the things to check on.

Sam

 

things to do when pulling a trailer the first time.

As a roundabout set the gain at 5.

Check all tires on the truck and trailer. Check the pressures..I would advise max psi cold.

with the trailer hooked up and the jacks still down...foot on the brake(with the tbc hooked up....hold the trailer brake on the controller.

Next let up on the foot brake. What you are doing is ensuring you have a good lock on the kingpin and also checking to ensure the brakes on the trailer are working.

Next, nice flat straight area get the truck up to about 25mph and test the braking action of both and then adjust a little if needed.

You can also have someone put there foot on the truck brakes and then with your ears go to each wheel of the trailer and listen for the buzz. A buzz will indicate power at the tire to work the brakes.

Make sure the axles are rated for the trailer as well. Look at the cert sticker on the trailer.

 

Not always. We just blew thru 3 "D" rated tires last month coming back from NE.
Trailer is 10,600, had it loaded with normal stuff plus 300lbs of beef. ( miss the NE beef and pork).
We carried 15 gallons of fresh water and no black or grey water.

Coming thru kentucky we sat on a fresh new concrete for over 45 min in a traffic backup. 15 miles later a guy flagged us down. Sure enough one of my passenger side we're missing 6-7 inches of tread casing. Pulled into Nashville. Went to go look at the tire and glanced at the drivers side as I was walking around trailer, both on that side same thing, missing huge chunks.
Sure with the trailer barely loaded d rated tires are ok but I had pep boys put E rated tires on it. With a min. load that trailer is at the max load rating of the d rated tires.
Weight placard on the trailer calls for D rated tires so the dealer and factory put them on.
I also found out how much nicer it pulled after putting E rated tires on it. Less sway on the freeway.

Check your tires, dealers and factory shouldn't put you in harms way but they also have to watch their bottom line.

 

Hitching up is your time, no conversations ordistractions. Want to make a mistake or forget a step start talking tosomeone. You do the hitching and if at a dealer and they say it is goodto go, fine. Then walk thru your hitch up as if you were doing it. Mywife and I ALWAYS do a turn signal, brake application and tail light testbefore moving the trailer, ALWAYS. The mirrors that Ford has put on makebacking a lot easier. Enjoy your truck and trailer, it is a good thing.<o></o>

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I always like to match my fifth wheel hitch to the trucks capacity, you just never know when you might have to move some one else's trailer. Or the wife decides to get bigger one.......

 

Not mentioned is a walk-a-round each time you stop. (I try to stop after 10 miles or so if it is our first trip for a month or so and do another quick check.) On your walk-a-round, feel the tires, hubs, and wheels (for temperature). It's a good idea to look at tire tread and lug nuts. If you let the truck idle during this inspection it will let the turbo cool down. You should check you trucks tires as well and visually check everything...hitches, sewer caps, you get the idea...this should not take longer than 5 minutes, and yes I have caught tire tread separation before a blowout.

As you know it's a good idea to locate good fuel stops, rest areas and overnite sites ahead of time. Cracker Barrel usually has parking for RV's and busses, as do some McD's along interstates. You might be interested in walmartrving@yahoogroups.com for overnite stops. Travel safely.

 

same strategy as with our enclosed car hauler. I used a laser temp sensor when we went to Chicago last time. checked each tire and hub at each stop.

need a genie for the non rv site stops.. won't have one this trip.

thanks for the reminder.

 

Sam, I hooked up last night for the first time. I lost two inches with the weight of the trailer. Not too bad considering a 3K kingpin weight.

Check yours the first time you hook up. I was fairly impressed that it didn't squat.

 

saw that in your other post.. have tape measure ready.. have airbags too.. that overload leaf makes for a harsh ride empty.
also, looking at your posted pics, do you have a slight uphill tilt on the trailer
what is your clearance to the bed?

Sam

 

Like said before - and you have been hauling your classic truck so I am sure you do it...

I always chain down my Tractors and attachments at the ranch -- bump down a ranch road - get on pavement - go a few miles and check all connections/ chains /boomers, tires, etc. Ranch roads are good to find weak connections..

I would think with your 5th, there would be similar things to check after a short haul... granted I hope you won't need chains, boomers, & straps to hold your new 5th wheel together - al least not his soon!

Have fun with the new Rig (both of them)!!

BTW - The Exxon at Seward Junction seem to always have the cheapest diesel maybe 15-20 cent lower... If you hadn't noticed.....Although getting a trailer in and out can be a little frustrating but the frustration is worth it when I save $15 filling up my 100 gal diesel tank on the trailer.....

 

thanks.. yes I always assume I made a mistake on something, so recheck it.

12-20 cents? I don't see THAT, 2-3 maybe.. go by there every day at least twice. been looking for a 45 gal in bed aux tank. no rush for this 1st trip (altho I will have to pass thru Illinois twice)
the Valero stations at Crystal Falls and New Hope seem to be the cheapest regularly.

 

While we are on the subject of fifth wheels and checking connections...

Got an F250 with fifth wheel connector in the bed, no fifth wheel yet. I did buy an adapter to go from trailer 7pin to 12v so I can plug in my electric cooler. It seems like there is no locking tab to keep the plug in in case of vibrations. Just a round plug in a round hole. Am I missing something?

 

Generally the ones in Burnet & Bertram were $3.79 and The Exxon was $3.65ish I thought that I usually looked in LH although I generally don't stop there...

Filled my trailer up a few weeks ago and it was $3.53 at exxon and $3.75 in Bertram Shell...

 

yeh, those adapters suck. I have one for my mini compressor.. hard to even make a connection, much less keep one like you are needing. I am going to make a new one.. trailer plug and a lighter socket and some shrink wrap.

hm.. thats something useful to do before we leave. thanks.