Leaf spring help
#1
Leaf spring help
Hey guys
Got my leaf springs off the axle the other day so I can take them apart and repaint them. I have all the hardware off except the single bolt going through the middle holding all leafs together.
Question is do I cut the bolt in order to get them apart, then what do I replace it with? Can't seem to find it in mid-fifties website or another post.
I found the post on how to complete this, just need this part answered before I ruin something
Thanks
Mike
Got my leaf springs off the axle the other day so I can take them apart and repaint them. I have all the hardware off except the single bolt going through the middle holding all leafs together.
Question is do I cut the bolt in order to get them apart, then what do I replace it with? Can't seem to find it in mid-fifties website or another post.
I found the post on how to complete this, just need this part answered before I ruin something
Thanks
Mike
#2
I don't know if they are the same one for 53 and up, but here are links for the 48-52...
rear...
Spring Center Bolt, Rear Stock - Ford F-100 Parts
front...
Spring Center Bolt, Front Stock - Ford F-100 Parts
rear...
Spring Center Bolt, Rear Stock - Ford F-100 Parts
front...
Spring Center Bolt, Front Stock - Ford F-100 Parts
#4
I got my center bolts at a local CARQUEST.
Listen to this warning very carefully--get yourself 2 or 3 C-clamps and clamp the springs together before you cut that bolt. Otherwise, they'll fly apart and could possibly hurt you. The C-clamps will allow you to separate the spring leafs in controlled manner as you open them up.
Listen to this warning very carefully--get yourself 2 or 3 C-clamps and clamp the springs together before you cut that bolt. Otherwise, they'll fly apart and could possibly hurt you. The C-clamps will allow you to separate the spring leafs in controlled manner as you open them up.
#5
#7
DO NOT paint the leafs! it will bind them up, making them ride harsh and jumpy. If you sand them, do it parallel to the length (by hand or with a belt sander run lengthwise only), any cross scratches even from fine sandpaper can/will be the start of a crack. Putting the HMW plastic slider strips between the leafs will improve the ride 100%. Mid Fifty sells the center bolts. Pgs 156-158 of their catalog depending on how many leafs in the stack. Call and order one of their free print catalogs, contains highly valuable info as well as part pictures and assembly drawings, a must have for anyone working on a 53-56 truck.
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#8
Paint them if you want, new springs come painted. The last three sets I have installed came painted. The paint wears of where it needs to, there is no kind of paint that will keep a spring from moving on a vehicle suspension. As far a the the spring liners or spring tip buttons they are worth there weight in gold. You can get the tips and center bolts at a local spring shop or through Betts Springs.
#9
Springs don't come painted they have a black oxide coating from the heat treating process. If your springs have a rust coating, give them a wipe of rust converter, it will turn the rust black, but it is a chemical reaction, not a paint. Leaf springs can get surprisingly warm on long drives, enough to get paint gummy. IMHO If you must paint, paint the edges and the exposed portions of the leaf only.
#10
Most springs are not painted, as Ax said; although I've seen many restorer's paint them, and even powder coat them. I've heard (have not done) that if you must paint them, use slip-plate where the metal touches, and paint the sides, etc as Ax also pointed out. Again, I've never done it but heard thats the way to go...
#11
In my experience, some leaf springs come painted after assembly. (Individual leaves are not completely painted.)
I would not use an acid (rust converter) on springs. Eaton has issued a warning against lubes coming in contact with springs, acid can't be anything but worse for that. They say:
"Prior to the mid fifties grease was put between the spring leaves, in fact springs of many pre-50 cars were wrapped in metal liners to hold the grease in. Some cars had hollow center bolts with a grease fitting so the springs could be lubed on the car. The idea behind lubing between the leaves was to reduce inter-leaf friction.
Then in the early 50's the type of steel used to manufacture springs was changed to SAE5160 and the practice of lubricating between the leaves stopped.
Grease has an adverse effect on 5160 steel. The chemicals in the grease react with the steel and causes the steel to breakdown.
Take a look at the front springs on the next large truck you see leaning. There's a good chance the power steering unit will be leaking onto the low side spring."
I would not use an acid (rust converter) on springs. Eaton has issued a warning against lubes coming in contact with springs, acid can't be anything but worse for that. They say:
"Prior to the mid fifties grease was put between the spring leaves, in fact springs of many pre-50 cars were wrapped in metal liners to hold the grease in. Some cars had hollow center bolts with a grease fitting so the springs could be lubed on the car. The idea behind lubing between the leaves was to reduce inter-leaf friction.
Then in the early 50's the type of steel used to manufacture springs was changed to SAE5160 and the practice of lubricating between the leaves stopped.
Grease has an adverse effect on 5160 steel. The chemicals in the grease react with the steel and causes the steel to breakdown.
Take a look at the front springs on the next large truck you see leaning. There's a good chance the power steering unit will be leaking onto the low side spring."
#12
Here is a link to Eaton spring talking about painting and even powder coating springs.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/techques...springrust.htm
http://www.eatonsprings.com/techques...ingsprings.htm
Just posting for you reading pleasure.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/techques...springrust.htm
http://www.eatonsprings.com/techques...ingsprings.htm
Just posting for you reading pleasure.
#13
#14
Interesting thread, indeed. Looking at the original owner's manual for Missy Green, my 1956 F350, I find the lubrication chart for all models. Under spring lubrication, it says to "Spray with dripless penetrating oil" This is on page 35 and recommended at 1000 mile interval and for all trucks.
#15