I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. I posted a while back and got some advice on front rotors and replaced them a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
Thanks
Rob

 

I can understand your frustration. I still have a similar problem, see this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13194211

It still does it after replacing all four rotors and all the pads as well as servicing all the slide pins. My next item to check is the driveline, but right now I am using it as a daily driver while I'm replacing the ball joints and vapor canister on my Nissan, so I can't afford to have it out of service right now.

 

I read your other thread. I can't imagine it is all the other things, but I guess you never know. I will probably recheck things this weekend and possible replace the rear rotors, but I would think if it was bearing or the driveshaft being out of balance it would do it all the time. This only happens when using the brakes.
Rob

 

I had the same issue. My fix was the rear rotors. also had burned up the parking brake and it was slightly hanging.

 

Sounds to me like the caliper piston is hanging up or the soft line to the caliper has internally collapsed not allowing the caliper to release. Either or both cases will cause the rotor and pads to super heat causing rotor warpage and premature pad wear, typically the inner pad.
Most dont realize that its good practice is to bleed the brake fluid Bi-Annually or at a mile cadence called out in the manual nobody reads. Brake fluid absorbs H2O. If its kept clean the brake system will live longer. The soft lines should be inspected regularly and replace every 100-150K just for safety with an OEM part not chineasium.
Also make sure the interface between the back of the rotor (or drum) and the flange (axle hub face) which it mounts to are clean and free of any chunks which would prevent them from assembling exactly parallel to each other. That will cause pedal pulsation, wobble and brake lining wear as well. I always apply liberal amounts of anti-seize to these surfaces.

 

If the caliber piston is hanging up, is that a replacement of the entire caliper or can they be rebuilt? I have not done much with calipers in a long time. I think we used to be able to rebuild them. It might not be worth it anymore and they are probably just replaced, but thought I would ask. I will also inspect the rubber line. The front passage side did have the inner pad worn completely out when I replaced them this last time. I also put a lot of anti-seize on all areas including the pins when I replace the brakes. Looks like I might be getting rear rotors as well.
Rob

 

You can choose to do either with the calipers. Personally I dont want to be bothered honing, cleaning and rebuilding. Reman or new is the best way to go IMO (warranty). I find its cheaper in the long run if you purchase a loaded caliper. A loaded caliper comes complete with pads, clips (hardware kit) copper washers, bleeder some additional hardware where applicable etc....Some kits you can get the rotor and soft line included as well.
You (most likely) wont be able to see an internally collapsed rubber line unless you cut it open longitudinally. If the truck has 100K+ miles just replace them. Cheap insurance IMO. The soft lines can go bad at anytime at any mileage. The slider pins and lack of silicone lube on the clips, dirt, crud etc...can all contribute to the uneven pad wear by limiting caliper/pad retraction holding the pad against the rotor upon brake pedal release. Same goes for a collapsed line. Both problems can exist together as well!
I assemble everything minus the rotor/pads and push pull on the caliper and force it to slide as intended. If its not smooth then something isn't right. Then I assemble and do the same with the rotor & pads installed. Rust under the stainless clips can force the clips up reducing or restricting the pad movement enough to cause the inboard pad wear as well. It should all move freely & smoothly after the "new" parts are installed. Always prove-out and test newly installed components prior to road testing when ever possible.