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Grinding Brakes

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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #1  
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Grinding Brakes

Wife just called on her way home from work and said the brakes grind when she pushes the pedal down. 08 with 39000. What am I in for and what kind of tools do I need? any and all help pleaseeeee. I'll pull off the wheels in the morning and take a look. Everybody seems to say the newer trucks go bad in the rear first,and she never uses the e- brake.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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n5926g
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From: Hernando Ms
39,000 miles...they "should" be fine.Personally I would drive it myself,and see if you can locate if its coming from rear or front.There is a possibility that something like a small rock is stuck on the caliper,or pad.
Replacing pads is pretty simple,youll need a large "C" clamp,and probably a
large Allen wrench type tool.
If you find it is the front pads,jack it up,pull the wheel(s),unhook the caliper,remove the old pads,and compress the caliper piston with the C clamp.Pop the new pads in,attach the caliper,and you have it.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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My truck is at ~56k miles and I am having my front brakes done this weekend. I have never heard of rear brakes going before the front due to most of the stopping power comes from the front brakes.
I have read in the past the rotors on this generation of F-150s commonly wrap and well, mine front rotors are wraped so I will be replacing those too!
Fortunately, I got a estimate from Ken Towery tire center for 269.00 including the rotors which isn't bad considering the Tires Plus place wanted over $400 for the same job.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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snowdog79
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From: Tri-Cities, TN
I had to have both front rotors and calipers replaced at 32k as the left front caliper seized up and the right wasn't quite right either. Now one or both of the fronts has a vibration when braking from higher speeds so I guess it is time for some aftermarket rotors and higher performance pads. The brakes are my only serious complaint about the truck.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 02:56 PM
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dusty d
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holy crap!! i dont know if you guys know this, but brakes are the biggest gravy job any technician at any shop can get!. very very very rare for a caliper to seize up, and if it does, a little compressed air can pop it out, and a new seal kit is cheaper than dirt. they usually charge an hour labor for pad replacement, which take a whole 5-10 minutes, then another hour for rotors to be resurfaced. seriously, get your truck on jack stands, pop the wheels off, and take the rotors to pepboys to get cut, buy $50 lifetime warranty pads, and put it all back together. and instead of a c clamp to compress the piston, use a large flathead screwdriver, and pry the piston in between the pad and rotor(while its still bolted on,) youll save so much money, and the time of sitting around while someone takes all of your money doing a job you could easily do yourself. oh and the grinding noise, is probably the wear indicator telling you its time for new brakes.
 

Last edited by dusty d; Mar 5, 2011 at 02:57 PM. Reason: additional info needed to add
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 11:43 PM
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From: Tri-Cities, TN
Mine were replaced under warranty, otherwise I would do it. It's time again so I think I'll go with a higher performance aftermarket system as I tow a lot.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 06:38 AM
  #7  
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I agree with Dusty. That is the easiest way to get pads off, UNLESS the caliper screws in. Then you need the caliper compression tool. I have only put back rotors and pads on my 06 so I'm not sure if the fronts are press or screw in calipers. It cost me right around 100 bucks for new rotors and lifetime pads at autozone. I had Hawk pads and rotors on my last truck and in my opinion they are a waste of money. 40K later they were shot and when I tried getting them replaced under lifetime warranty they said well thats the lifetime of them so tough! To OP, do check for a small rock under the dust sheild as they make one he!! of a noise when they get stuck in there.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 07:34 AM
  #8  
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Turns out the left front had one of the sliders frozen solid in the caliper bracket so the pads must have been dragging for a while and they were gone along with the rotor, so Irepalced both sides with pads and rotors. It took a vise and some wd to get that slider pin moving in the bracket and finally got it out and cleaned up. put some caliper grease on and back in working order. Hopefully everything is good to go.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #9  
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i had to replace rotors and pads when i got my truck and it only had 30k on it, i got duralast rotors and they have lasted 80k and still going. i think the stock rotors warp very easy from what ive seen and with how cheap rotors are dont waste money on having them turned just get new ones.

celjel, i was doing a brake job on a VW at the shop and it took me 1hr and a call to snap on to learn about the damn twist style caliper,lol i gave it hell for a while but live and learn

also one of the best things to do is get a buddy at a local parts store to get discounts because simple things like brake parts have a huge markup, i put the rotors and gold pads on my truck for less than $35!!!! and 20 min of my time for both sides.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #10  
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From: Mission BC
my back brakes wore out before the fronts, apparently because with the tow package the braking is distributed differently. also only greased the calipers, guess what happenned a few months later? had to turn the friggin rotor too because i was tryin to cheap out at 120k.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:19 AM
  #11  
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From: Ripley NY
oWe had a 2005 Mustang that I went to change the pads on and they were the screw in calipers. It only took me about 20 minutes before I made a call to the ford house LOL. I wish I knew someone that worked at the partshouses, thats damn cheap for rotors and pads, I think I paid more than that for just the pads. To me brakes are pretty much not an option on vehichles so I never try skimping when reapiring them. I usually replace the slide pins when I do the pads as that is usually the problem for uneven wear and rotors overheating. If I recall they are about 15 bucks a set at Ford.
 
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