Safety neutral switch problem. Bypass??
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Safety neutral switch problem. Bypass??
Trying to figure out my starting issue. I've had issues in past few days where I turn key and nothing. I start pumping clutch pedal with key still turned and it flashes up.
Finally today it did nothing even trying pedal up and down. I got a new switch from parts store and in a pinch just plugged it in, pressed it in with a pen and turned key. Nothing! I'm stumped.
I roll jump started it barely on a hill and got it home. When I got home I put a test light on the 6 pins in plug with ignition on and there's no power to the plug.
I noticed my speedo and odometer were out. Found a 30 amp maxi fuse was out under the hood and swapped that and odometer,speedo are working again, BUT no power to switch plug! I don't have a owners manual to look up the big underhood fuse functions or relays. Any ideas guys or even a bypass would work for me.
I did try a wire in the plug jumping pins being desperate to start as I was in a tow away zone. I did get a little spark so there must of been power at some point. This was only after trying new switch with no luck.
Finally today it did nothing even trying pedal up and down. I got a new switch from parts store and in a pinch just plugged it in, pressed it in with a pen and turned key. Nothing! I'm stumped.
I roll jump started it barely on a hill and got it home. When I got home I put a test light on the 6 pins in plug with ignition on and there's no power to the plug.
I noticed my speedo and odometer were out. Found a 30 amp maxi fuse was out under the hood and swapped that and odometer,speedo are working again, BUT no power to switch plug! I don't have a owners manual to look up the big underhood fuse functions or relays. Any ideas guys or even a bypass would work for me.
I did try a wire in the plug jumping pins being desperate to start as I was in a tow away zone. I did get a little spark so there must of been power at some point. This was only after trying new switch with no luck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I'm pretty sure it is the 2 on one end of the switch, like if they were numbered 1-6, it would be either 1 and 2 or 5 and 6. You should have power to one of them from the ignition switch when it is in the crank position, if not you could have a bad or mis adjusted switch. There is a part in the column that breaks and wont let the switch work... does the key feel normal when you turn it to start? Does it spring back to run normally?
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
The key returns fine but the key hole looks like it may of been tampered with at one point and maybe stolen! I have no power to the wires but there was at one point until I jumped pins with a wire and got that spark. Can't find the fuse if there is one. It was one of the end pins that had power and maybe the one red/blue stripe wire.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Did you check all the fuses? Do you know how to check them with your test light? You can turn the key on and you should have power to most of the fuses. Backprobing the spot on the back of the fuse will check without pulling the fuse. If you have power on one side of the fuse and not the other, the fuse is blown.
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you could run an in-cab auxiliary switch to the starter either permanently or temporarily until you get it all figured out. it'll only take 20-30 minutes, and if you kept it, would be a theft deterrent (these trucks are easy to steal). just make sure the wire/switch you use is sufficient for the amperage that goes through it.
you could also run a starter solenoid like the older trucks used, that way you can use a low amp switch and low amp wire to energize the solenoid, which would be in-line with your current starter wire.
you could also run a starter solenoid like the older trucks used, that way you can use a low amp switch and low amp wire to energize the solenoid, which would be in-line with your current starter wire.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
That makes no sense. Power comes from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch, and to the starter relay on the pass inner fender. If you are not getting power to the clutch switch with the ignitiion in crank I would be checking the ignition switch. I don't know what should have power without a wiring diagram. The ignition switch is on top of the column down towards the bottom. It may be worth lowering the column to gain access.