Hey folks, First time post on FTE.

I am working on a 77 F150 300 i6 4x4, manual 4 speed, plain jane custom. If it matters, The engine has been rebuilt, bored over, decked and balanced, forged pistons, new rings, seals, seats, oil pump, mild RV cam, header, offy dual port, holley 390cfm carb, 3 inch exhaust and a MSD ignition module.

The problem is this. When I try to start the motor, the engine cranks (I can hear the engine trying to start and alternator fan and engine fan spin) but It won't actually start. the old starter didn't make a grinding or whirring noise but I suspected that it wasn't actually engaging the flywheel gear (and because I had already replaced almost the entire ignition system components except the solenoid. I installed a new starter and now when I attempt to start, I still don't have any current coming to the plugs and after I release the trigger switch my remote starter, the starter makes a whirring noise as it winds down.

I have a spark plug tester installed between the #1 spark plug and the wire and the light isn't coming on. I have replaced the ignition coil and distributor.
I have replaced the coil (new), alternator (salvage yard), Starter (salvage yard, Distributor (salvage yard), and a echlin alternator voltage regulator (salvage yard). I also have replaced my entire instrument cluster and every fuse in cab box and the one between the between the solenoid and MSD.

My suspicions include: flywheel gear teeth worn down, starter gear teeth (actuator pin?) not engaging flywheel gear, bad starter altogether, bad distributor, bad alternator, ground somewhere in the ignition circuit, bad fuse link, or my truck hates me after leaving it in the weather for 2 1/2 years while deployed. I suppose I also should include that I have a MSD ignition module and that where it hooks up to the distributor, there are two wires (purple and black) that are supposed to be linked to a connector coming from the distributor. the connector from the distributor has three posts. I am not sure I reconnected the leads to the connector correctly.

I guess my question(s) are where do I start troubleshooting. What is the most likely problem, and how do I go about fixing it. I also wrapped the new starter with insulation and heat tape due to my headers surrounding it and a suspicion that they may have baked it. I downloaded the actual service manual, but because is assumes that the reader actually knows a damn thing about auto mechanics, I have a hard time understanding some of the procedures. I try to cross reference with a haynes. Also, wiring diagrams mystify me.

I am down to one vehicle and I need my truck to run. I am also afraid that my PTSD will lead to a massive explosion in my carport (kidding). I also apologize for the length of this post, but I am trying to provide the most thorough description of the problems I am having. Thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide.
I should also add that after the engine had been rebuilt, it sat for 2 1/2 years. I have replaced the fuel pump twice, clean out the tank (electrolysis), and I have installed 3 clear inline fuel filters (1 between carb and pump, another along the frame rail, and the last right after the tank fuel outlet. I can see clean fuel going into the carb.

 

You say you're using a stock distributor correct? There should be three wires coming out of it, purple, orange and black. Black is a ground, the purple and orange wires are the ones that go to the pickup coil. I'm not a 100% familiar with MSD's wiring, but I think the wires you need are the purple and orange, not purple and black.

BTW welcome to FTE, lots of good people here, and thank you for your service

 

Welcome to FTE. Can you distill your problem description down to something a little simpler? Is the issue that the starter is not engaging the flywheel (preventing the engine from cranking properly), or the engine is cranking properly, but does not actually fire up? Or some combination of both?

 

No spark sounds like the ignition module isn't wired correctly,

 

Alright gents, I was incorrect about the leads from the msd to the distributor. I have corrected this. As to the problem, I don't have any spark, and I suspect that the starter isn't engaging the flywheel gear. I am trying to get spark first and then address the starter. I can do that right? I should be able to get spark regardless of the starter not working correct?

The ignition module is sealed and it was working before I started having issues

 

The ignition will fire (or try to fire) the plugs as the engine turns. I think you need to get the starter working so it turns first. Then check/trouble shoot the ignition.

 

X2, the engine needs to be turning over first.

 

There is a way to check for spark with msd boxes without turning the motor over, something about pulling a plug wire and breaking ground causing spark. The proper procedure is on msd's website.

 

MSD Ignition

 

roger, starter first. I have already replaced the starter with one from a salvage yard. Since I suspected that I had baked the original, wrapped the salvaged one with insulation and heat tape so that my headers wouldn't bake this one.
My plan is to take my headers, intake, and carb off again and inspect the flywheel gear for milling, and/or excessive wear. I will take pictures this time to show you both the fly wheel and starter gear.

The reason I suspect the starter isn't engaging in the first place is that there is a kind of whirring noise coming from the starter after I release the trigger on my remote starter. I don't recall this happening with my original starter. Is there any way to test the starter without pulling it other than checking the cable leads from solenoid to starter?

 

when I squeeze the trigger on the remote starter, the motor cranks (fan and alternator spin and distributor rotor turns, but it does not actually start as there is no spark. The solenoid is good (no clicking).
The MSD is getting 12v to it from the pos side of the solenoid, but nothing coming out from it to the distributor or coil (ignition in on position).
I dunno, but the more I go in circles the more I think that the distributor that I got from the salvage yard is bad. How do I make sure?
Can I replace a fuse link with an inline fuse relay?
I also found that the neutral safety switch was disconnected when I took the plate an boot off of my gear shift in the cab. Does this mean anything?

 

If your engine turns over when using key, then your NSS has been bypassed. Using a remote starter switch, key must be on for it to run.