Ok guys, I am having an issue with my 6.0 blowing coolant, imagine that.
With the truck sitting and ldleing at operating temp the reading are as follows: Water..192 F* Oil..195 F* Boost...0 PSI Radiator.. 1.5 PSI
Easy acceleration to 55 MPH(rolling hills)
Water..194 Oil..201 Boost max 10PSI Radiator..14.6 PSI
EASY acceleration(down a slight grade)
Water..194 Oil..200 Boost..6 PSI Radiator... 15.7-16.5
All of the above readings were taken going "around the block" with a stop at a stoplight. Total mileage ~5.
Stopped at the next corner and bled pressure from the radiator to 0 PSI.
Temps at 0 PSI
Water.. 196 Oil..201 Boost..O PSI After radiator cap re-installed..1.8 PSI.
Wide open throttle through 3rd gear readings as follows
Water.. 200 max Oil..203 max Boost..26 PSI max Radiator PSI at end of WOT 15.2 PSI
Back at the house at Idle
Water..202 Oil..204 Boost..0 PSI Radiator..15.2 PSI.
The radiator pressures were taken with a digital .25% accuracy guage.
The odd thing is that the pressure seems to climb faster at an easy take off than at WOT. What am I missing here? I was thinking head gaskets but would the pressure not build at idle also?
The truck has 65,000 miles on it.
Thanks in advance for all of your help.

 

How long has it been since (if ever) you replaced your cap? Is your coolant level 1/2" to 3/4" below the minimum line on the degas bottle? The cap should hold ~16 psi but once in vents it should be replaced.

AFA building pressure at idle, the system pressure is generated by cylinder pressure. More cylinder pressure (WOT w/ boost) = more system pressure IF your headgaskets are compromised. You could even have a small EGR cooler leak

 

So its a 2005 MY???????????????????

EGR Cooler or Headgasket

Next step Pull EGR Valve

 

Yes the cap was replaced about a year ago. The EGR has been deleted. I should have posted this in the first post. There is/was a whistle while under acceleration, I checked the "blue hoses" and they seem to be good. I did tighten the clamps a little more and did not notice the whistle on my test drive this afternoon.

 

Brings us Straight into a HeadGasket or Water Pump issue

Are you tuned???

 

I assume you don't have oil in your coolant. How about diesel in the coolant?

"I don't see anything extreme with your radiator pressure. "

Isn't that because the cap is blowing coolant when it exceeds 16 psi? I've heard stories of blowing the radiator when the degas cap did not releave the pressure.

 

No oil in water, no water in oil, no fuel in water. Yes it is/was tuned. SCT 120 HP but I do not drag race or anything like that.always tow with 60 HP tune or stock.

 

My Money is On Stretched Head Bolts

Tuned while tow was the deciding Factor for me With Degass Bottle Whistle


I would expect temp spikes with a Bad Water Pump yours look good

Make shure to use ARP stud with OEM FORD Gaskets Good Luck with it

 

Johnny: under what conditions do you blow coolant? Like during the tests you ran, or under more extreme use only?

 

The original post line 8, he vented the radiator pressure after the truck was up to temperature. Under normal operation after venting the radiator pressure shouldn't go up over a few psi. I would bet he has a blown head gasket.

 

^^^^-----+1

 

The truck blows coolant under all conditions, not just pulling a load.

 

Couple of questions here, how full did you fill the degas bottle when you've added coolant ( as Npccpartsman asked ) was it above the minimum line that is molded in the degas bottle? If so you had it too full as the old low is the new high. Also when the truck has sat over night is the degas bottle still under pressure? You say your EGR has been deleted, is the EGR valve still in place and plugged in?

 

The pressure should be caused only by the expansion of the coolant as it heats up. If you relieve pressure after it's up to operating temp and it builds up again (without cooling and re-heating) then somthing is getting into the cooling system. Likely air, likely headgasket.

 

Amb. air temp 90* water 200* oil 205* max boost 26 psi max rad pressure after WOT to 80+MPH 20 psi.
The above was after replacing the thermostat and refilling to the min level on the STICKER on the de gas bottle. When started the thermostat replacement, yes there was still pressure on the system. Top rad. hose 181* at the neck of rad. bottom hose 161* at the neck of the rad 200* at the neck of the thermostst houseing. While checking the hose temps the perssure on the rad fell almost 2 psi with no drop in the water temp. Hope this helps. Is it normal to see oil on the inside of the boost hose post cooler. Not dripping but is noticable. Could this oil be partialy clogging the cooler? Does this mean replaceing the turbo and cooler?