Yep, that's been my experience in the past. I drove I 90 3 years ago and climbed several other high passes and had no problem, the truck was stock then. I'm on the lowest power setting and the stock tune. I can't believe it's the tuner.

Senix, given the truck temps and pressures I think the coolant system should have held, it should not have puked. I wonder if there is a formula for converting coolant temp to cooling system pressure. Do you know of such?

 

I don't know of any formula to convert temps to pressure. I would think there is though.

 

OK guys, I found a NAPA store up here in the boonies.

Gonna see if I can get the cap checked. Or if not I'll just replace it.

Get some ford gold and water and top off the system.

The only other thing I can think of is finding out about the "tow" setting on the H&S. I wonder if that would work better then "stock" for towing the passes. Other wise, I'm stumped for right now.

For the next week I'll not be towing. After that it's mostly down hill to Missoula and if it's not on fire by then maybe I can get some help there.

In the mean time if anybody has a thought I'd like to hear it.

 

Yea, I kinda had that going on until I replaced the radiator hoses. Then it seemed to hold well until this event. The problems I had last week were due to air in the system, I'm sure. What I don't know is how it got there.

 

Lightly sand the top of the degas bottle before using the new cap. Just want to ensure it is nice and smooth for a good seal.

I would be towing in stock power if I were you for those passes.

 

Thanks on the sand paper. I'll do that in the morning. I did tow in stock. What I'm wondering is if the tow setting has anything that would hold down the temps. Probably not but worth looking it up.

Got a new cap this morning and found a Ford dealer to get coolant. I found out why they call it MC GOLD when I paid for it. Silly me, I thought it was about the color, turns out it was about the price; $18.95 each. Anyway, I now have it filled to the cold fill while hot. In the morning I'll top off and sand the degas. Everything seems normal.

I had a thought when I replaced the cap, I've never paid much attention to how tight I got it but this time I did. Don't know if it will make any difference or not but it wasn't real tight.

Also, I installed a coolant filter about 8,000 miles ago and changed the filter just before this trip. Anybody think the filter could be causing any trouble?

I guess that's it until I hook up next week and tow again.

BTW, I have been seeing dozens of 6.7L trucks on this trip. Ford must be selling them like hot cakes. They are every where. I know if my truck doesn't straighten up there is one in my future.

 

Was looking at some 6.7's today myself while mine is in the shop...nothing else to do in Midland tx.

Keep us posted. I buy my coolant at Napa. Read the bottle and it is ford approved.

 

We have similar issues with the buses we build....our engineers want the engine run at a highish RPM till the stat opens, then 1200 rpm for an additional 10 minutes and then allowed to cool completely...top up to fill mark once cool. [this is after using a de-airator]

Sounds like you guys are getting air lock in the system somewere....interesting you say its only since the trany work...perhaps the engine was hanging with the trans lowered and it allowed air into the system or bleed off some.

The other thing i have noticed with the new coolants is they evaporate...unlike the old antifreeze, so you will need to add a bit once and a while.

 

A lot of us have noticed that, mine gets drove everyday and I loose the amount between the fill marks about every 4to 5 months.

 

Well, the NAPA store was closer and I went there first. We looked at what they had that was supposed to be Ford approved and it was red. I just couldn't get comfortable with that and when they told me there was a Ford dealer 15 minutes away I went there. I think I learned in the third grade that yellow and red made blue, I just couldn't see myself with blue coolant.


On the 6.7 subject they had a new 2012 crew cab loaded to the hilt sitting in the show room. 62,000 bucks on the sticker. Salesman saw me looking and said I could steal it to get it off the floor. But, alas it was a SRW.

 

Interesting. How do they evaporate from a closed pressurized system. I thought that was impossible, but it would explain some things that have been happening to my truck in the past.

 

Just got mine back from the dealer.The temp differential between coolant and oil
is supposed to be no more then 15degs. They told me i had 199 and 230 difference and said it had a bad oil cooler. It was losing coolant and while towing
my Cougar travel trailer the temp pegged out, the wrench light was already on
and the engine reduced power msg. came on. I was at about 70 topping a hill
i let off coasted to about 6o, the temp gauge went back to normal, about 50%,
engine power msg. went away. wrench light stayed on. drove back home at 60 with wrench light on temp stayed 50% the rest of the way home. about 100mi.
the dealer wanted $3900 for an oil cooler they said was out of warranty.
And denied by Master Tech extended warranty. Mi. 44,000. 2008 F-250 out on march by yrs. Should have been covered by extended policy for 7yr. denied they
said the coolant was contaminated.
Told the dealer to get my truck ready for me to pick up. I Took my truck to a priviate shop they ran the same test the dealer supposedly ran they found no
more than 10deg. difference and said the cooler was not bad. They said they had seen thermostate problems with the 6.4 and thought mine should be rerplaced the 6.4 has two by the way. They replaced thermostates flushed the system refilled with gold coolant. And I haven't had it back on the road
yet to see what happens. But I still have $3500 dollars in my pocket.
Mine is stock f-250 CC swd 3.73 gear swb.
Check youtube bad 6.4 EGR coolers they can also cause coolant problems
and wreck 6.4 engines. best of luck.

 

Yeah the air lock in mine was evasive for weeks, nobody could figure it out. Possibly why 6.4 heads go bad too, not cause of what guys think or are told, but from uneven cooling maybe.

I have made up my mind that I am going to try evans waterless coolant very soon.
That and EGR cooler delete.

 

Thanks for that story. When it comes to dealers, they are not all the same. living in ATL I have my choice and shop prices on different jobs. They are almost always different between dealers. Because I have the tuner I can and do watch the spread between coolant and oil. Mine has gone to 15 degrees but not over that, normal towing is around 8 degrees. Sorry to hear that about the warranty. I thought the extended was good to have. I almost bought one but chose to modify instead. So far I've paid $4000 on stuff the extended would have covered (or should have) so I'm down $1300. Oh well..... it's only money.

 

I'm not 100% sure either... I just know every manufacturer i ever worked for told me the same thing and we always ended up topping up the coolant system about every 6 months because the level was low but there was never a leak.