The mechanical portion of the swap is complete. I went over the donor harness and it looks good. I plugged it in, hooked up the timing light spun over the engine and there is no spark. I checked for voltage at the coil. No voltage. I decided to unplug the dsii harness and verify the output of the three plugs on the cab side. This is where I get confused. The 4 plug connector has a red/white, white/red, brown/yellow, red/yellow. With the key on the red/white is pulsating 12v like a flasher. So is the white/red. The red/yellow is steady 12v. The brown/yellow is pulsating .2v. The 3 prong connector. Red/blue steady .2v, white/blue steady 12v, white/red steady .2v. The tach connector green is 0v and the black is 8v. My concern is with the pulsating voltages. I don't get it. Help please.

 

Forget the module harness for now, you do not have voltage on the coil +, and that's a different circuit. Find out why you do not have voltage on the coil +, it comes in directly from the keyswitch. I believe most of the time is a red/green or a green/red wire.

 

I thought everything plugged into the donor harness from the three plugs on the drivers fenderwell. If not I am missing something.

 

Ok looking at the two wires on the horseshoe connector. I have a green and a red. I found a diagram that shows another wire spliced into the red. I don't have this. Just a red and a green.

 

You should have a darkgreen with a yellow stripe that runs from the coil over to the module, and a red/lightgreen that runs to the positive of the coil. The red/lightgreen should have power when the key is in run and start.

 

Subscribing. I can never learn to much about the DSII system and Dave is one of the Guru's.

 

I will trace the red one and see why it doesn't have voltage.

 

Plugged it all back in. Only getting .3v to the coil with the key in run. It goes to a red/white at the firewall plug. I am tracing that now.

 

What do ya have at the coil in start when cranking? That should be 12V. And Dave does that not come from the I post on the solenoid?

Is that 3 volts in run or .3. .3 volts aint gonna get it. I think it should be around 7V in run. Maybe a little less.

 

.3 3/10 v I will have to check cranking voltage at the coil tomorrow.

 

12v during cranking can come from the "I" terminal on the solenoid, but most of these trucks are wired with the bypass made into the ignition switch, Ford decided to get rid of the "I" terminal on the later models.

I do not believe the diagram shows that wire changing color, it should be red/green all the way to the ignition switch.

Why don't you verify you(we) are on the right trail, and run a wire from the battery + to the coil + temporarily, and see if it will try to start. You should not run it this way for a long time, but it will be enough to see if that is the real problem, or at least one of the problems.

 

Tomorrow. Thanks

 

I was not sure I should suggest that. Although I have done it many times. Like pulling the + cable on the battery at a fast idle to check if they are charging. Have been flamed here for saying that. But never had a problem with a little common sense.

 

Well I imagine if I just use a jumper wire to the battery and spin over the engine I can use a timing light to see If I am getting a spark. Then it would just narrow down the problem. However for normal I would have to use the ballast resistor wire correct?

 

Just run a jumper from the + battery to the + coil. If it starts than pull the jumper off. Let us know if it continues to run after pulling the jumper off. That is if she starts. Don't run it for a prolonged period of time with the jumper on as that is to much volts to the ignition in run. Don't complicate it with the resistance wire at this point.