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Range sensor or neutral safety problem? update

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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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Range sensor or neutral safety problem? update

Today on the way home from the races, dumba$$ me ran the front fuel tank empty. Next time I travel I will have a full fuel jug with me. I thought about it friday, then thought, "I won't need it". Luckily I had enough additive in my bottle to fill up the pre pump filter, and most of the post pump filter. After some cranking I got it to fire up.

Now onto the actual problem. I cranked on it a bit before I filled the filters, and then after a bit I couldn't get it to crank. Just nothing when I turned the key. I put it in neutral and still had nothing. Then just messed with the shifter some and got it to crank. Then it kept working till I got it fired.

Thoughts? I just had a thought about the shifter bolts that come loose under the dash. I tightened mine up before, but that doesn't mean they aren't loose again. The more I think about it the shifter does seem a little sloppy again.

Think that could be it? I probably went and typed all of this and answered my own question.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman

Think that could be it? I probably went and typed all of this and answered my own question.
At least it got answered LOL!!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:50 PM
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Did yall loctite them bolts?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Heck no Glove.

I'm guessing that's it Bill.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Some times you have to type it out befor it makes sense to you. Edit: how did you do at the races?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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I'd think its the bolts. But if you do need a range sensor I have one in my box you can have if you want it. It a OEM about two years old
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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I'm racing Dad's car as I'm in the process of selling my motor. Found a guy interested today too. I lost second round today. I cut a .002 light but the car fell off .06 from my dial in and I got beat by .001. An inch or so. Redlighted first round yesterday. I'm fighting a trans brake problem in the car. When I activate it it rolls ahead a little bit before locking, and doesn't roll ahead the same each time. Makes it hard to get my reaction time right. All my reactions were from -.010 (red light) to .011 on the good side all weekend, but I need to slow them down a little as that's flirting with disaster. It was really a pain as I had to wait a little longer to leave if it rolled ahead, and still sometimes redlighted. Gotta fix that. My car used to do that until I put a better trans brake in, might be what I have to do to this one.

Thanks Mike, mine is new with the rebuild this winter so it shouldn't be bad, but you never know.

Edit: Gabe, that is exactly what happened. I never even thought about that until I almost finished typing.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 02:34 AM
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Sounds like a learning experince weekend then. Im sure you have to work out the bugs, just like when moding these trucks.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 07:20 AM
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It would be nice to somehow be able to prime the filters instead of dropping them down and filling them.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 02:23 PM
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You could put filter heads with pump primers
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Electric fuel... Jump power to the pump and let the pump prime the system before cranking it... I always do this when I break my fuel system apart, except when I change my filters. I never fill the filters when I change them out.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
Electric fuel... Jump power to the pump and let the pump prime the system before cranking it... I always do this when I break my fuel system apart, except when I change my filters. I never fill the filters when I change them out.
X2 ^^^^^^^^^^
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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I tried letting the key just be on for a while to hopefully let the pump fill them. I let it run, turned it off, let it run, off, etc. a few times trying but to no good ending. They had some fuel in them when removed, but not a lot. Although my quart of additive filled one and almost filled the other and the quart was about 1/3 gone.

I still had air in it when I got home, 35 miles later. It cranked a while before firing after I unhooked.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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Does your pump run when you turn the key on? I wired mine with an oil psi switch like Travis' so the pump doesn't run until you start cranking, then oil psi switches it over to key on power.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 06:57 PM
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With the strictly diesel harness I have it runs for 30 or 60 seconds(can't remember) with the key on before it will shut off if you don't start it. That's why I turned it on and off a few times. I couldn't get it to show over 10psi until I filled the filters. Maybe it would have worked if I would have done it a few more times, I don't know.
 
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