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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Axle Pivot Bushing

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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 10:57 PM
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Axle Pivot Bushing

'81 F100 Stamped Axles

Before I get myself into replacing these bushings I did some searching on the forum. I've got the bushings (3B177A) but I'm unsure of procedure. Shop manual isn't much help. Is this job something I should farm-out to a shop with a lift? I'm wondering if I can do this in the driveway pretty quickly? As I age I become less and less a fan of concrete....., not to mention the blazing Sun, 100°+ temps and the pita HOA spies.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 11:49 PM
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Did mine in the driveway. I would suggest replacing the radius arm bushings as well since it will all be apart anyway.

The job is about as straight forward as it gets. It helps to have some cheater bars so you don't pop a gut while turning the bolts and soak the threads with wd40 or pb blaster the night before you do the job. Sometimes a wire brush is handy to preclean the threads before oiling.

1. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. Place stands just behind the radius arm while leaving room to use your tools on the radius arm nut.
2. Remove wheels.
3. Disconnect tie rods from spindle.
4. Use the floor jack to support the axle under the spring perch.
5. Remove caliper and secure safely.
6. Remove shock and spring retaining clip.
7. Lower axle enough to remove the spring.
8. Remove radius arm nut and pivot bolt/nut.
9. Pry pivot end down until clear, then pull entire assembly forward out of radius arm bracket.
10. Replace bushings and reverse order disassembly procedure.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 06:39 AM
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Do you want to replace the pivot bushings or the radius arm bushings? The previous post described replacing the radius arm bushings.

I have replaced the pivot arm bushings before. You need to support the whole frontend of the truck by the frame. I still had to fight the axles to get it out of the way to replace the bushings. I also had to make up a rig to install the new bushings, consisting of a large washer and some all-thread and a large metal cup or socket to press the bushing back into place.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 08:21 AM
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Read 8 through 10 again please. The design of this suspension is so simple that is is easier to just pull the entire assembly regardless of which bushing is being replaced.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 09:34 AM
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I removed nothing but the axle pivot bushing bolt when replacing mine. Simply use a floor jack, slightly raise up on the stamped axle arm to remove weight from the bolt. Remove the bolt and lower the jack to expose the bushing. Hammer old bushing out, hammer new one in (or use a balljoint press). Raise it back up with the jack, insert bolt and tighten.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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I believe I'll farm this work out. There being but one bolt/nut per bushing, I thought it would be a fairly simple/quick job. I'll defer to shop with a lift.
I've pretty-much sworn off working under the truck anymore. I had ball-joints, tie-rods and radius arm kits done recently. These pivot bushings weren't done tho. A big mistake I'm thinking now. They look ok, but they are 32yrs old.

Finding the correct lower ball-joints turned out to be a problem. The lower joints I supplied and specified were too big. Same story for other parts jobbers. Every place sent the same part that was too large in diameter.
Finally had to get them from NAPA. The cost from them was $25 more then the cost of the wrong ones from the other places. According to them, the lower joints were for a F100Heavy.....? My front-end guy is nearly in my age group and he'd never heard that term before...
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:25 AM
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I did my axle pivot the same time as the radius. The axle pivot are a pain when you try to line the arms back up to get the bolts back through.

Make sure you get the right type for your truck. I'm pretty sure they are different for 4x4 than for 4x2. I think it comes down to the 4x2 reusing the sleeve that goes into the axle while the 4x4 uses new sleeves. I had to cut mine out. Be REAL careful you don't cut into the axle as scarring it can make putting the new bushings in even more challenging.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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I did mine myself in my backyard. I thought about farming them out. Almost every shop that I called asked me what axle pivot bushings were. The only shop that actually knew what they were and how to service them wanted $150 per bushing, and there are two. I figured I could use the $300 more than they could. I made a tool like the one I saw in a link here, that went to another website. I also have some pictures here;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ild-log-6.html
I also fabricated a tool for the job. Here are some links that might help.
1984 Ford Bronco axle pivot bushing tool pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
axle pivot bushings-removal tool - FSB Forums
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...f-250-4x4.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oval-tool.html
I hope this helps you out.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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1984 Ford Bronco axle pivot bushing tool pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

That's what I am talking about. I made something similiar to squeeze them into place.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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i did them in my van using a c-frame ball joint press. it was very straight-forward.
1) raise vehicle and support the frame on jack stands with wheel hanging.
2) place floor jack under axle at spring
3) remove axle pivot bolt and nut, adjusting floor jack as needed
4) use a prybar if necessary to lower the axle beam from the crossmember
5) set up ball joint press and use it to remove the bushing and install the new one
6) align the axle beam and the crossmember, using jack, prybar, and hammer as needed. reinstall bolt and torque properly. lower vehicle
7) check the wheel alignment and adjust if needed.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 08:22 PM
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Thank you everyone for the help!

Josh: "check the wheel alignment and adjust if needed"

hmm....didn't know replacing the pivot bushings would affect alignment. Just had that done....
Thanks

Dave
 
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 01:25 AM
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yes, disassembling or replacing ANY parts in the front suspension and/or steering system can have an impact. however, the only alignment angle that needs your attention here is the toe angle, which is the one you can easily adjust with the tie rods. mine didn't change much when i replaced the bushings, but you should still check when you're done.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Before you decide to farm it out you might take a look at YouTube video "FORD F-250 I BEAM PIVOR REPLACEMENT"
It looks pretty straight forward.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 02:05 AM
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Mine was way easy. I used the Energy Suspension Poly bushings. Supported frame on jackstands, removed axle bolt with jack underneath, lowered the axle end, drilled out the rubber, leaving the outer shell, took the propane torch to burn out the last of the rubber, cleaned lubed the shell and pushed the bushings in by hand. Raised the axle back up, installed bolt. Done.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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Don-
I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace my axle pivot bushings, I've fixed everything else on the suspension and steering that looked bad. I would like to use the poly bushings like you did.
Can you tell me a exactly how you drilled out the old bushings? I'm limited on tools, I have hole saws and std drill bits and can get access to a benzene torch. Hopefully this is all I would need.
Thanks
 
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