Front brake job
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 40
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From: WPB
Front brake job
Anything out of the ordinary should I expect to come across while doing my front brakes? I plan on replacing the lines, calipers, rotors & pads. I have a 1999 f350 & when I drove it last i started smelling brakes when I came to a stop. Looked as if right brake was getting stuck & being that this truck came from up north the right front line is in pretty rough shape but previous owner replaced the left brake line.
Anyone happen to have torques for calipers & brake line by any chance?
Anyone happen to have torques for calipers & brake line by any chance?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 870
Likes: 9
From: Carbondale, CO
Here's a link to Bob's page on the slide pins with the torque values.
Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web
Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Brakes are pretty straight forward if you are just going to replace everything. No special tools needed. Hubs (unit bearings) aren't too bad either unless you are replacing the hub seal on the back side and have to pull the axle. Then you need the special seal driver. Check your hubs for any slop when you get it down to just the rotor on there. grab it on opposite sides and try to move it up and down and side to side. You will know if it is bad. It shouldn't move at all.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
If you're getting reman calipers, get the one that include the mounting brackets. that way it will save the cluster of the slide pins.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I use lifetime warranty rotors from orielly's and prefer EBC pads by leaps and bounds over anything 'over the counter'. The Yellowstuff pads stop waaaaay better and are less likely to warp rotors than regular pads. I've gotten 60-80k miles out of each set I've used (with a lot of towing heavy in the mountains). The Greenstuff pads are almost as good at stopping and should last a little longer. Oh, warping is covered by the rotor warranty! 
The caliper brackets are available separately if the slide pins are hopelessly frozen. I prefer dielectric grease to lube slide pins - it lasts longer than conventional 'caliper grease'. Make sure the boots are installed properly, so the grease stays in and the weather stays out. I also recommend checking the slide pins at least annually. Its EASY, even with the wheels on - just loosen the bolt most of the way out and push the pin into the bore with it. If its stuck or feels dry, go ahead and pull the caliper and re-lube the pins.
The caliper brackets are available separately if the slide pins are hopelessly frozen. I prefer dielectric grease to lube slide pins - it lasts longer than conventional 'caliper grease'. Make sure the boots are installed properly, so the grease stays in and the weather stays out. I also recommend checking the slide pins at least annually. Its EASY, even with the wheels on - just loosen the bolt most of the way out and push the pin into the bore with it. If its stuck or feels dry, go ahead and pull the caliper and re-lube the pins.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I've never used a torque wrench...
My WAG is ~20 ft/lbs.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 40
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From: WPB
Well I can't seem to get my brakes to bleed using a vacuum kit. I got new calipers from NAPA (eclipse), tried getting new rotors from them but turned out the ones they gave me were for later 99 models which were still 13 in but little wider, hence the reason I couldn't spin the tire once it was on. Regardless I put the old rotors back on & I noticed that the drivers side bleeder was an 8mm wrench but the passenger side is a 10mm. Anyone do a caliper replacement & come across this? For the life of me I couldn't hold a good vacuum on the drivers side so just for ****s n giggles I was just gonna see how the brakes worked in the driveway......needless to say one or both of the front brakes are just about locked up I could barely move the truck. Is this because of maybe an airlock in the lines not allowing the pistons & pads retract?
Thanks
-Matt
Thanks
-Matt
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: WPB
Ok, so turned out one of my rear calipers decided to lock up so now that that's fixed I had a friend here helping to bleed the brakes & got them bled. But my question is what does the power steering pump have to do with the master cylinder? When you turn the wheel you hear the power steering pump whine a little & when you pump the brakes you hear it whine also. Not quite sure I remember this noise before. And before the brakes were spongy but seemed to have more of a pedal then I do now. Seems like I'm at least halfway before it starts braking. Is that normal?
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 81
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You probably have a hydraulic brake booster. Those are on a lot of diesel trucks (instead of the vacuum booster that is more common on gasoline vehicles) although some diesels have vacuum pumps and vacuum boosters. The hydraulic booster is just a pressure assist to give you power braking. The hydraulic booster runs off of power steering fluid pressure built by the pump.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: WPB
You probably have a hydraulic brake booster. Those are on a lot of diesel trucks (instead of the vacuum booster that is more common on gasoline vehicles) although some diesels have vacuum pumps and vacuum boosters. The hydraulic booster is just a pressure assist to give you power braking. The hydraulic booster runs off of power steering fluid pressure built by the pump.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 841
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From: Monroe, MI
I had a problem where my brakes were locking up from a bad hydro boost, and also at the same time i couldnt push the pedal down at all, but when they werent locked up the pedal was very soft and i wouldnt get good braking until a little over half way into the pedal. Replaced the hydro boost and all has been well since.