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When I took the batteries out I noticed one of the cables was a little bit loose. I could wiggle it back and forth on the post. Maybe a contributing factor.
From everything I have read, stay away from rebuilt alternators on these Superduty trucks. You want a NEW Alternator. They run about $150 - $175. If you want the high output Alternators they run from $299 - $699.
Also, FYI, after removing your batteries and having them tested...
Any time the battery is disconnected for any reason, including dead battery, a new PCM has been installed, or the calibration has been reflashed, the adapts for the "Engagement Schedule" should be reset. This procedure will prevent the customer from returning with firm or harsh shift or engagement complaints. Proceed as follows: Note: All of the following engagements must be performed, in order for engagement pressures to correctly adapt with the new calibration.
1. Install diagnostic equipment (or use suitable Thermo device) and monitor TFT (Transmission Fluid Temperature).
2. Warm the transmission to (130°F) as indicated by the TFT.
3. Perform 5 engagements from Park to Reverse. Each engagement should be five seconds apart.
4. Perform 5 engagements from Drive to Reverse. Each engagement should be five seconds apart.
5. Perform 5 engagements from Reverse to Drive. Each engagement should be five seconds apart.
6. Perform 5 engagements from Neutral to Drive. Each engagement should be five seconds apart.
Looks like I had multiple fail points going on here. Had to tow up to WA this weekend and the Gen 1 code popped again. After many hours under the hood I found a wiring harness that is flakey. When the Gen 1 code would show I would pop the hood and jiggle this connector and everything is fine again.
Anyone have any experience with this. Not sure if it is best to buy a new harness or try to repair the one I have.