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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Motor Rebuild

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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 08:49 PM
  #1  
dferrell5's Avatar
dferrell5
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Mountain Pass
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From: San Antonio, TX
Motor Rebuild

Hi all,

Need your experience and expertise on this matter. As I mentioned earlier, just bought my dream 49 Ford however, the more I look at it, the more I notice things that have to be repaired. In fact, this is becoming a bit overwhelming. Was reminded not to try and do it all at once so I pose this question to you.

In desperate need of a motor rebuild and new transmission. Currently have 350 trans but I want something with an OD a 7004R would be my preferred. Also looking for shop that is reasonable and do good work to rebuild my 350. I am in the San Antonio area, any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 09:09 PM
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airwolves
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Well as for rebuild I had bought a zz4 engine that had 2 bad pistons. For what I spent on rebuilding it. The machine work and new pistons. I could of bought a crate motor.

How much in the budget? Is where I would start. and what you want out of it.

I wanted horsepower so I couldn't buy one for what I have in mine.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 09:17 PM
  #3  
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dferrell5
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Mountain Pass
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From: San Antonio, TX
Rebuild

Budget for motor is 2K, and wanted at least 300 HP. From what I have seen, that budget will not get that HP. If I could save on the engine, I could divert that extra money to the body work that is needed.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 05:57 AM
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49willard
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IMHO $2000 is a bit light for a complete sbc rebuild. I have a friend that is an engine builder. He did all of the machine work (I paid his standard machining prices), I got parts at his prices and I did the assembly in his shop. I was under $2k but not much.
I wanted a torque motor. It is a clone for the GMC 383HT crate motor so I bought a stroker crank. We dyno'd it at his shop. It came out at just over GM advertised specs. It is a torque motor so the HP was only 345 (at 4600rpm) but torque was over 400 for a long range peaking at 440. He did not charge me for the dyno runs since I did all of the setup and breakdown on his dyno.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:01 AM
  #5  
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From: Erie, pa
Ford forum
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:14 AM
  #6  
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The Horvaths
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Really depends on what ("scrub") motor was put in there to start with and what's wrong with it. Have you run a compression test? Can you do a leak down test?

When you say "rebuild my 350" are you referring to TH350 or SBC 350. It's easy to make some SBC 350s run 300 HP or better. First, I'd do a sanity check. Why do you feel that it needs a rebuild? Does it burn oil? If so, is it valve guides, rings, or both? Is performance lacking? Is it over carburated and/or have way too big of an intake for the design? Have you done a thorough tuneup?
Give us some better information and perhaps we can be of more help at saving you money while getting you going.
 
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Old May 5, 2022 | 06:36 AM
  #7  
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djcwardog
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Joined: Feb 2022
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From: Louisville
After a day to think further, seeing as my goal is to maximize off-idle torque in this heavy truck with 3.73 2WD gears, I am going to use the HP09 long block with a timing cover and cam swap. I can always build on that combo and even pursue an EEC-IV tuning solution (TWEEC, Pimpx, etc). Or.. I can use the base motor and swap in a Sniper EFI system if I prefer. So, answering myself from the post above:

1) Yes, I believe I can swap over my timing cover and use the new CCW (correct for my truck) water pump to get past these possible issues
2) They list this as up to 1997 (has a “seasoned roller rocker block”) but not compatible with EFI trucks. I believe that is because of the timing cover issue and a cam that would be hard for the EEC-IV to work with - unless I go with an aftermarket EEC-IV tuning solution.
3) I plan to swap in the Comp 35-349-8 cam and set it up with the OEM rockers and pushrods, keeping the OEM cast iron heads to start with as I am going to be looking at the timing chain anyway when I swap over the timing cover.
4) If I want more power, the stock cast iron heads at 62cc and a CR of 9.5:1 can come out in favor of the Flotek Al heads at 58cc (a bit more CR).
 
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