This'll probably get moved, but I couldn't find a tool forum. I need a torque wrench since everything I do on this truck seems to have a torque spec. I have a cheap one that I in no way trust. I need some suggestions. Do I need a 0-100 ft/pd and another, heavier one? Can you get just one for everything? I'm not professional so I don't need the best there is, but I do want one that lasts. I'll pay for a "bomb proof" one, but don't want to put a mint in one that comes in its own hand carved case. Thanks for any input.

 

You need a min. of two. You need an inch and a foot pound torque wrench. The foot lb. wrench won't go low enough for some of the smaller fastners and vice-versa for the inch lb. wrench. I've been using Craftsman for years with no problem. There are cheaper and more expensive wrenches out there. Which ever brand you get you need to remember to set them at their lowest setting when your done with them for the day. These wrenches I have are the clik type wrenches. There are also the beam style wrenches that have their own advantages and dis-advantages. You have to decide which is best for you but which ever style you choose you will still need the foot and inch lb. versions.

 

Definately need the 2.

A range of 20-175 ft-lbs in 1/2" drive for one and 10-200 in-lbs in 1/4" drive for another.

I use clicker types, and have all brands from SK, Great Neck and even Harbor Freight.

Don't think you need Snap-on for a DIY'R or think the HF are total crap. Those clicker types, especially the 1/4" drive clicker have a great reputation on Garage Journal.

Josh

 

I have some old ones but bought a couple last year I can recommend.

I got a 3/8 drive Craftsman 25-250 inch/pound from my local store on sale for $39. It has a ratcheting head and it's a little large and clunky but I took it to work and tested (we have a calibrated and certified "quick check" tester on the wall in supply at my job) and it was right on. P/n is 9 31423. I thought it was a good deal. Case was kinda crappy though.

I also bought a 3/8 drive Kobalt (Lowes) 20-100 Foot/pound for $107. Slimmer ratcheting head. It feels very much like the Snap-On ones we use at work as far as size, weight, balance, and gears in the ratcheting head. Readings were also very close when tested. P/n is 337333. It also came with a decent case to keep it in. The cap on the end of the handle came off a couple of times but some contact cement fixed that.

I picked up one of those inexpensive 3/8 torque wrenches from the parts store for something like $15. It didn't check out. For one thing the settings stamped into the handle didn't even work out- it was graduated incorrectly, and it tested from 25% low at the higher settings to 30% high at the lower settings.

While in some cases it more important that all the fasteners be evenly tightened than exactly what the tightness is, the cheapo is virtually useless. Don't be tempted.

 

Thanks for the reply. I read somewhere that clicker types can be difficult to use in the lower part of their range due to not clicking. Is that a concern with the type things I'll be using this on? Should I consider the other type?

 

That's the purpose of 2 and sometimes 3 diff. wrenches to keep them in the correct range. Nice thing about the clickers is if in a tight spot you don't have to watch a gauge.

 

Well clickers have a range of accuracy and are most accurate in the middle and not as much on the low end or high end. Of course cheap ones being far more innacurrate than more pricier ones.

Beam style are usually the most accurate overall, but a pain to use.

As for hearing the "click" it might be again you get what you pay for.

Then again there are some really nice low priced units out there. Check out Garage Journal as the forums have reviews, tests and head-to-head tests there.

Which is why I brought up the 1/4" Harbor Freight clicker. It did really well against some that were 10X the price.

Josh

 

I had this problem when I just did the trans pan bolts and my el-cheapo 3/8" unit. I went around them 3x because I kept missing the click it was so slight. I'm going to follow Josh's advice and look for a 1/4" one -- might be more in it's range for these 10lb level torques.

 

I was thinking that as I read it. He could have just used a lighter duty wrench. Thanks. Heading to Sears for a start.

 

Thanks. I'll check that out too. I guess they're kind of like guns. Can't ever have too many and not having exactly what you need is a good excuse to get another.

 

Ain't that the truth brother -- my kinda' guy...

 

I saw a you tube video awhile back and the guy was using something like this -- I thought it was pretty cool. I didn't search much before I found this one...

Anyone have experience pro/con on digital units? I like the beep when you reach torque setpoint...

Eastwood 3/8 Inch Drive Digital Electronic Torque Wrench

 

SRMasterTech on his Youtube videos also uses a digital torque wrench that beeps. I think it's pretty slick.

All the years I wrenched everyday I almost never used a 3/8" drive, always 1/2" or 1/4"

Josh

 

Just spent the last 2+ hours reading on torque wrenches and am as undecided on what to do as when I started. I TRIED to post earlier that Eastwood also makes a 1/2" digital (15-148 ft-lbs), but that went to oblivion apparently. I can't seem to find many bad comments on those wrenches, but typically I prefer simple (not digital), bomb proof (can use it for years), accurate, reliable, and don't tend to care as much about the cost as I do the other things (within reason, of course). Once again, this reminds me of guns...lots of options, variables, and opinions...and never a perfect answer to all of the questions.

 

You can find either the 3/8" version (that I posted a link to) or 1/2" (on eBay) Eastwood digital torque wrenches for $79.99 delivered.

I might buy the 3/8" one at that price...