Curious to what you guys are putting in your transfer cases & differentials. Im getting ready to change the oil in em, & wanted to see what you guys were using for oil in yours.

Im also curious how often you guys change yours.

 

I have always replaced with royal purple, I have never had a issue. It already has the additive in it for the limited slip. For the transfer case I use royal purple as well, I believe it specs mercon LV....

 

I had the dealer do mine at 60K as it was too cold when needed and I was out of time.

I plan on doing another flush of the trans with filter, rear and front diff's at 100K.

 

Nobody else has done these themselves ?

 

Dealer does all my scheduled maintenance per my Scheduled Maintenance Plan.

 

I went with Royal Purple. I used the ford gasket maker/silicone rather than rtv.

I tell you what though..... that used oil, is the nastiest, rank, foul smelling oil Ive ever smelled.....lol. Definitely, a latex glove & get rid of the used oil asap job.

I hadn't done one of these in some time. I remember it being rank but, it was certainly understated in my mind.

 

Roof Dude what type of royal purple did u put in your transfer case, cause on there web site they dont have transfer case fluid. im gonna change my transmission and transfer case over to royal purple right away. any insite would be great. also how much fluid does your power steering hold, i wanna switch my power steering fluid over to royal purple as well

 

I used mobil 1 ATF in the transfer case. Royal Purple in the differential.

 

Not sure about he power steering fluid Smoker. Havn't got to that yet.

I'll be doing my transmission, just a filter & 8qts next weekend. I had the hot flush full change out 25k ago. I want to do a refresh on it now, & I'll do another hot flush in 25k more. Im getting up there in miles, & want to do everything I can to prolong the life.

 

I did mine @30K: Front/Rear diff, Transfer case and Trans.

I used Ford XL-12 transfer case fluid as directed by the manual. Even though it looks like trans fluid, it stated on the bottles that XL-12 is specifically for transfer cases.

Front diff I ran 80w90 gear oil, nothing special, in the rear I ran 75w140 synthetic, again all per the Ford manual.

 

4qts of Royal Purple in the rear end every 40k miles.

 

I just changed all my fluids last weekend at 127,000
Oil and filter - motocraft (it "made" about 1 qt of oil as I don't have the dpf delete yet but on my to-do list. this is the first time it has "made oil")

Transmission & filter - motocraft SP 9 qts (second drain & fill on this vehicle but it was VERY clean)

Front diff - 80W90 basic stuff (this was the first change and it was very clean)

Rear Diff - motocraft 70W140 and 8 pts of friction modifier (this was the first change and it was good but a little dirty - a few metal particles on the magnet but not bad)

Transfer Case - motocraft XL-12 2 qts (this was the first change and it was a little dirty but not too bad)

Replaced both fuel filters - motorcraft

Replaced Air filter - motorcraft

All done by myself in garage at about $500 in material.

I didn't get the coolant done yet but plan to flush with restore/restore+ and change over to ELC coolant. I had the radiator changed and coolant replaced 3 years ago at 77,000 so it is getting time for that as well.

As a side note to all - I forgot to oil the o-ring on the oil filter cover and damaged the o-ring. I took a rag and wiped up the little bit of oil out of the bottom of the filter housing to make sure no o-ring pices fell into the housing. After cleaning the bottom of the housing I found a small rubber ring about the size of a nickel laying in the bottom. After some investigation i found out that it was the rubber seal on the oil cooler by-pass valve. I have no idea how long that had been damaged. It is a poor design by ford as the brass plunger is the same size as the hole and can easily shear off the rubber seal. I contacted two stealerships and both said I had to purchase the entire oil filter base ($200). I couldn't get just the valve or just the rubber seal (should be about $5).
I would suggest to everyone to mop up the small amount of oil in their filter housing each time they change oil to check for this. Both dealers indicated that they have never seen this happen before but when looking into this issue I found this valve is included in the Bullet Proof Oil Bypass Kit so it must be fairly common but people just don't notice it.