Oil Pressure Sender/Switch Question
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: Newberry Springs, CA
Oil Pressure Sender/Switch Question
Hey All,
Need some help and/or opinions. Last year I put a 4 gauge pod on the A Pillar of my 2000 SD F250 CC V10. I put a tee in the water temp sensor so it would still read on the dash and ran a stainless line from the oil pressure gallery to a tee on the fender well so i could still use the stock OP switch (thanks for the idea Art).
A year later, I've gone through 2 hoses and can't seem to keep them from leaking oil. I pulled them off and was going to manifold the 2 sensors/switches right off the block, but the more I look at it space it at a premium in the area and it's going to be a tight fit.
SO, my new idea is to plug the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge directly into the block, and wire the OEM switch "closed" so i don't get the idiot lite on the dash.
Anyone have any idea how to wire the OEM switch closed? Do i just take the sender wire to ground?
Any help or opinions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Need some help and/or opinions. Last year I put a 4 gauge pod on the A Pillar of my 2000 SD F250 CC V10. I put a tee in the water temp sensor so it would still read on the dash and ran a stainless line from the oil pressure gallery to a tee on the fender well so i could still use the stock OP switch (thanks for the idea Art).
A year later, I've gone through 2 hoses and can't seem to keep them from leaking oil. I pulled them off and was going to manifold the 2 sensors/switches right off the block, but the more I look at it space it at a premium in the area and it's going to be a tight fit.
SO, my new idea is to plug the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge directly into the block, and wire the OEM switch "closed" so i don't get the idiot lite on the dash.
Anyone have any idea how to wire the OEM switch closed? Do i just take the sender wire to ground?
Any help or opinions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Not sure if it's a "normally open" or "normally closed" circuit. Try it and find out 
It would make sense that it's a "normally closed" (when oil pressure is good) so that if the wire falls off, you get the red light in case of wiring failure, but historically, oil idiot lights are "normally open" and the circuit closes to light the light when oil pressure fails.
Funny thing about the hose, I used a stainless-braided marine-engine trim hydraulic hose, meant for a Mercruiser I think, with 3/8" flare ends, and it's lasted like almost 10 years now. I was even more worried after I installed headers, but still going strong.
It would make sense that it's a "normally closed" (when oil pressure is good) so that if the wire falls off, you get the red light in case of wiring failure, but historically, oil idiot lights are "normally open" and the circuit closes to light the light when oil pressure fails.Funny thing about the hose, I used a stainless-braided marine-engine trim hydraulic hose, meant for a Mercruiser I think, with 3/8" flare ends, and it's lasted like almost 10 years now. I was even more worried after I installed headers, but still going strong.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
Welcome to the world of mechanical gauges. There is a reason the truck has electrical gauges and sending units from the factory. Got worse when the gauge companies cheaped out and went away from copper tubing. If you plan to keep the truck for a while I would switch over to electrical gauges. I made a fitting for my oil pressure sensors that screws into the cooler tube so the stock sender and the gauge sender work. I did not want to spend $200 for a full sweep electrical Autometer gauge so I gambled and bought a New Vintage gauge that matches the stock lighting closely for $150. So far the gauge works well.
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