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Yesterday while changing my oil I decided to put in a new oil pressure sending unit. My old one just read 80+ all the time. When I put the new one in and started it up, it only read 10 all the time! Even when I was driving it around, the pressure never changed. Is my gauge toasted, or what else could be wrong?
Take the wire off the sending unit, turn on the switch, the gage should not move. Ground the wire, the gage should peg. If this test turns out OKAY! I'd say you got the wrong sending unit or the engine has low oil pressure. The oil pressure should fluctuate lower at idle, higher at rpm. This is why I like idiot lights, turn on the switch get a light fire the engine light goes out and I can concentrate on enjoying the ride.
I thought I had bad oil pressure the in dash gauge was reading 10lb while driving and 0lb at idle. So I put in a oil pressure gauge that I had laying around. With a real gauge its running 60lb while driving and 20lb at idle. Theres nothing better than having a good gauge and they dont cost alot.
I agree with rustyf100, You shouldnt trust 30+ year old gauges. I got a set of sunpro gauges for the oil, water temp, and volts for 35 bucks. I ran a "T" at the oil pressure gauge and tapped into an extra hole I had plugged for the water so I could still run my original gauges and the new ones. This way you can compare them both and see if it is an oil pressure problem or a gauge problem.
I'm thinking that it is a gauge problem. I grounded the wire out and it peged, then I waranteed my sending unit, got a new one, and I still got the same results. It always reads 10, except for at first startup, then it gradually goes up to 10.
Buy a mechanical oil pressure guage kit, preferably with copper tubing but plastic works fine. Even if you dont install it permantly. Just hook it up to see what you have. I feel that mechanical guages are more accurate because they don't rely on any voltage. Voltage can fluctuate alot in these old trucks. You probably have one of those small voltage regulators mounted on the back of the cluster. Ford used these to compensate for voltage "jumps" and smooth out the needles. It might be your culprit.
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