Random Fanning
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 343
From: Breckenridge, TX
Right out of the cap on the degas bottle is the only way out. Puking coolant used to be considered a sure-fire sign of blown headgaskets, turns out sometimes it's just about a pint or two too much coolant.
EDIT: Whoa, I need me a pair of push pin pullers like that Mishimoto guy has.
Look through this shop manual .pdf on how to change out the radiator. Other than the transmission lines maybe being stuck it shouldn't be too bad.
EDIT: Whoa, I need me a pair of push pin pullers like that Mishimoto guy has.
Look through this shop manual .pdf on how to change out the radiator. Other than the transmission lines maybe being stuck it shouldn't be too bad.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 343
From: Breckenridge, TX
Whoaaaaa, hold up. I was only talking to there being a "purge" in the system, which there isn't. Before you get your kickers unduly twisted over what I said, I meant "coolant blowing out of the degas cap" used to be a common headgasket failure sign, but then the coolant level on the reservoir was changed, and coolant puking problems went down significantly. If coolant isn't venting out of the cap, you're fine.
A leaking radiator, somewhere south of the degas, isn't a warning sign of anything except a cracked radiator. Just verify where the leak is coming from, and don't worry about the heads.
A leaking radiator, somewhere south of the degas, isn't a warning sign of anything except a cracked radiator. Just verify where the leak is coming from, and don't worry about the heads.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
So I made it home with a stop to the local author parts store to order up a new radiator. It will be in tomorrow. I can not any any spray type leaks but I do see significant leaking of the top plastic cap and I'm sure the bottom is the same which would explain why it was across the entire bottom. I can't see anywhere else where it is noticeably pissing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
You mentioned you used 50/50 to top it off, 50/50 of what type of coolant? You cant mix coolants in these engines they take ford premium gold.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
From what I understand, adding regular coolant to the ford gold will cause it to gel and once it gels there is no cooling benefit. Next time ( hopefully there isn't a next time ) distilled water would be a better choice to just get it home or someplace you can work on it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Dang, well I guess Ill dump the fluids asap. Where can I get this Ford Gold stuff? Only at the dealership? Im half tempted to put the radiator in myself and then have it towed to the Ford dealership for a flush and fill.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Or you can buy Xerex Gold which is the same. Now you are going to have to do about 10 flushes with pure distilled water to get that old crap out before you top off with 100% gold to get the proper % Gold coolant.
The gauge is a dummy light, it doesnt move from a water temp of 145 to 220, then it goes up. Ge your torque working and you will see stages of fan at 210, 215 and then screamin high at 218 or so. Soon as temp drops to about 214, fan will kick off. Other inputs like oil temp, a/c ect will of course hold high fan longer but you get teh idea. The gauges are idiot lights in sheeps clothing.
Good luck with the rad re and re. Gonna be a fun job.
The gauge is a dummy light, it doesnt move from a water temp of 145 to 220, then it goes up. Ge your torque working and you will see stages of fan at 210, 215 and then screamin high at 218 or so. Soon as temp drops to about 214, fan will kick off. Other inputs like oil temp, a/c ect will of course hold high fan longer but you get teh idea. The gauges are idiot lights in sheeps clothing.
Good luck with the rad re and re. Gonna be a fun job.