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Okay, I ordered a 3 gauge pod for my van and am now sourcing some gauges. I have been looking at my engine and doing some research hear. I have a couple of questions. My gauges will be EGT, Engine/coolant temp and Trans temp. So here is my questions:
1. I am wanting to keep both my dash temp gauge and dummy light. I know people have used the port in the front of the drivers side head. What would be the downfall if I used the port at the rear of the drivers side head? With the doghouse off it is extremely easy to get at. How would my readings be effected?
2. On the EGT....I know I want it in the manifold as close to the #7 or #8 cylinder exhaust valve as possible. How are our cylinders numbered? want to make sure I drill/tap on the right one.
I was advised to put mine in the driver's side manifold at the rear. That is #8. Passenger's side (from front to rear) 1-3-5-7. Driver's side 2-4-6-8. I'm gonna put my temp sender in the port you mentioned. Tried to when I installed my gauges, but didn't have a socket to fit it. It's TIGHT! Mine's in the dummy light port for now.
It isn't a pillar pod. I think I am going to make a base for it so that it is sitting on my dash and use some anti-skid stuff on the base. DOing it this way means that I don't end up putting holes in my dash with screws. If I find that I like it in a certian position I may permenitly mount it.
what KLA94 said. i installed my water temp probe in that port you mentioned and it has been just fine.
Thanks. You don't happen to recall the thread of it do you? I should have looked at it more closely when I was working on it the other night. I did get all 3 of my gauges ordered, so I am hoping to have them installed in the next week....along with my new IP/Injectors and electric fuel pump.
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
Not that anyone gives a crap, but here is where it goes.
negative on the thread ghost rider. My gauge came with a few different adapters and i just found one that worked, didn't pay attention to the thread count.
I'm pretty sure all the water plugs are 1/2" npt. Akamacgyver gave me that info I do believe. I know the dummy light plug is 1/2". Got an adapter from my local hardware store.
Okay, another question for those who have done this before....
Is there a certain place that works better for pulling the power for electrical gauges? I know I want one that is hot in the on and run positions for the sender. Then I want to tap into the light switch power so they light up when I turn on the lights.
Then I want to tap into the light switch power so they light up when I turn on the lights.
I don't think you actually want that. Or maybe you mis-wrote.
You technically don't want your gauges powered on with the light switch. In fact, most gauges have a wire that will dim the gauge when the lights are on. Just use a quick snap connector to your power supply wire after the head light switch, or just any 12V wire that powers on when your lights are on. I used my wire connected to the little light that iluminates my wiper switch.
As for On or Run, just find a wire with a multimeter or test light that gets hot when your key is in the right position. There are dozens. I used my radio wire, but I have an aftermarket wire. It's imparative you use a good relay and not just steal power from whatever you are connected to. If I were you, I would power on all gauges with the key-on relay, then connect to a 12V light bulb to do the dimming.
I don't think you actually want that. Or maybe you mis-wrote.
You technically don't want your gauges powered on with the light switch. In fact, most gauges have a wire that will dim the gauge when the lights are on. Just use a quick snap connector to your power supply wire after the head light switch, or just any 12V wire that powers on when your lights are on. I used my wire connected to the little light that iluminates my wiper switch.
As for On or Run, just find a wire with a multimeter or test light that gets hot when your key is in the right position. There are dozens. I used my radio wire, but I have an aftermarket wire. It's imparative you use a good relay and not just steal power from whatever you are connected to. If I were you, I would power on all gauges with the key-on relay, then connect to a 12V light bulb to do the dimming.
Thanks for the info. As far as the light switch, I meant the wire that you are talking about that would dim it when the lights are turned on.
Where exactly is the key on relay? And do you mean to add a 12v relay like when you add an electric fuel pump that activates with the 12v signal from a key on power source, or just tie in directly to the key on relay without adding another one?
They work great and made the wiring stupid simple.
Mike
Thanks. I was reading up and think I am going to use a fuse tap as well. So did you use 1 fuse tap for both gauges, or did you use multiple taps? I am asking because I am running 3 gauges.