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I just fired my 400m up for the first time and after the break in 8 pushrods were bent. I have a .484 .510 lift rv cam a high volume oil pump and rv springs and stock height pistons what could cause this problem?
i had the same problem with the 351m i rebuilt a put a competion cam in and competion springs and it bent push rods..so i called summit the place i order cam and spring from they said i needed shim kit for rockers and they explained how to put the right shims in..shims come in kit are .030 ,.060 ,.090.......... wish they would tell you that when you order stuff like that it would save aa lot of time and cussing....hope that will help
hmm my friend had a shim set that he ordered and never used but I dont know how big of shims to install. i dont want to buy new push rods and ruin them through trial and error how would I find out how big of shims I need without breaking my bank. :confused
The problem sounds like you used your factory exhaust retainers and springs. The factory valves are rotators and the coils are binding before max lift. The remedy is to install maching springs on intake and exhaust. Install them both at 1.82 inches and then the coils wont bind together. Buy the retainers non-rotating to match the exhaust.
Last edited by aaron351; Jun 14, 2003 at 12:37 AM.
You'll need to check for correct lifter preload. Working one valve at a time. Put engine on #1 Just as the exhaust valve starts to open. install pushrod to intake and tighten it down. You should get to turn it a few times. If you tightened it all the way without bottoming out you need longer rods. Turn the engine again until the intake just starts to open and install the exhaust side lifter rod. tighten and move to next cylinder. If you had the heads done they probably surfaced the deck(shaved it). This could also be the problem.
the intake and exhaust were bent after closer inspection every pushrod was bent. I have stronger springs do I need different rotators. the deck was not milled but I did a 3 angle grind on the intakes and pressed seats on the exhaust.
There are lots of things that need to be checked. If you have a machine shop assemble the engine they usually check all these things. If you assemble it yourself you are responsible. Go to your cam and spring manufacturers website and check the tech buletins on spring installation and valve train checks. There are VERY specific instructions for setting up your springs and valvetrain. You will need to check everything and you may need a pushrod length checker that can be purchased from the cam company or you can make one from an old straight pushrod and some all thread and nuts.
I used shims but it turns out that some how one of my valves got bent and its stuck open. so I had to take the head off, what could cause this just the wrong preload on the lifters?
That, (or cam timing?), or the stem to guide clearance was too tight and it galled. Check the piston, also!!!!! I had a valve to piston impact (minor, I thought)... about 5000 miles later the piston disintigrated. Not a pretty sight. Back to the push rods: It is a good idea to MEASURE the spring travel to bind, (ie. trust but verify). Check the rockers to see they aren't worn in at the old cam lift and presenting resistance during your new range of travel. Might as well degree the cam so you have warm fuzzies. Proper stem height DID NOT equate to proper preload for me. Seeing how you had to pull the head, the valve to piston clearance check would not be out of order for this engine. GL, I feel your pain!