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Picked up the linkage this morning and installed the carb this evening. Definitely an improvement over the Holley. However, it is still a hard starter. I'm going to work on the timing next. Maybe I've got the distributor off a tooth. It's so hard to start that I carry a jump starter with me wherever I go - this big boy drains the battery fast!
Originally posted by e065206 I have a 76 F150 2wd with a 460 and automatic. When I purchased it a couple of weeks ago, it had a Holley double pumper carb installed. I'm sure that's not from the factory. However, it had 2 spacers underneath the carb. I'm wondering if that is correct or did the person that put the carb on (don't know who that is) add the extra spacer for some reason related to the double pumper.
This beast sure needs a lot of gas. I've got a 600 CFM Holley with vacuum secondaries on there now, but have already experienced vapor lock once. Considering going back to the Double Pumper, but wanted to know if I should put the 2 spacers back under the carb, or just go with one? Any suggestions?
The only problem you will experience with the 600 cfm holley, is a noticable loss of throttle response & power, but it is a direct replacement for the factory holley. You will have the best luck, by using a 1" spacer along with the regular carb gaskets, 1 under the spacer, and 1 between the spacer and carb.
Thanks for the response saintx1. I've got the Edelbrock on it right now and it starts good when cold, but still a nightmare when its hot. The 460 may just be tired out. I've got to decide now whether to go with a rebuild on the 460 or drop in a 390 that I have ready to go already.
You don't have to get rid of your 460, there are just a few things ford engineers never think of. The first is the location of the fuel line from the pump to the carb. It is routed behind the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor. Both of these generate heat, and there is no way for the fuel to stay cool, therefore to run the vehicle on the street, in traffic, and summer weather, there are a few things I can suggest. To eliminate heat problems, get yourself an inexspensive vane type electric fuel pump, and mount it on the left side of your frame just in front of your fuel tank, (aux. tank if you have one) then move your fuel line going to the carb, to the left side of your inner fenderwell, then directly across to your carb. If you have air conditioning, you will need to move your ignition coil from its factory location (directly behind air cond. comp.) to a remote location, because it can super heat the oil inside the coil, and gives you the symptoms of vapor lock (I moved mine to the right side valve cover) you can also mount it on the inner fender well. Anytime you use a holley carb you should install an aluminum heat shield under the carb, to keep the fuel in the bowls from boiling. There is an enormous amount of heat, generated by the big block, and the more you can get out of the engine compartment, the better.
sound to me like I need to get ride of my P.O.S. stock holly carb if they need an aluminum heat shield under the carb. Maybe I can improive my gas milage and throttle responds by going to a carter/edlebrock.
Spacers are normally installed to provide additional velocity and/or to eliminate percolation (boiling) of gas in the float bowls when an engine is subject to extreme underhood temps or in very hot climates. Percolation will cause difficult starting on an engine shut down at normal operating temp and then started again, about the same effect as flooding it with the pedal.
Edelbrock carbs normally require Edelbrock's Heat Insulator Gasket #9266, which reduces the heat absorbed by the carb from the engine.
Are your spacers open or divided square bore, metal or non-metal material?
There are actually two spacers on my engine. They are both metal. The one on top of the intake has four holes (divided?) and appears to be a quadrajet-like pattern. The one above it is an open square bore and "adapts" my carb to the lower spacer.
If this is this a stock manifold with four divided bores, you need a stock carb. Both the Holly and Edelbrock carbs should be spreadbore and shouldn't be used with divided bore intakes. With both spacers, a spreadbore carb and a divided bore manifold, the carb is getting some really weird signals. The cheapest and best solution would be an aftermarket intake manifold for about $180 new (ebay has some deals for far less money) and you could run Holly, Carter or Edelbrock.
e065206, are you using the stock cast iron manifold? The stock manifold uses a spread bore carb sitting on top of a 1" thick cast iron egr valve/spacer. If you have one, a spread bore carb like a Carter AFB or Edelbroack will fit right on. However, a square bore carb like a Holley will not work "as is" because there will be a gap along the side of the carb. You say that "The one on top of the intake has four holes (divided?) and appears to be a quadrajet-like pattern." Are the two rear holes slightly larger than the two front holes? If so, a Carter AFB or Edelbrock spread bore carb will bolt right on and work great. I've towed more than 50,000 miles with this combo, pulling a 14,000 lbs trailer behind my '76 E250, and it works super. With a stock or mild 460, use a 600-ish CFM carb. If you have a stoker or a pretty stout rebuild (raised compression, etc) use a 750. I can email you some pics if you need more info.
Stan,
I'd have to pull the carb back off, but I believe you are right - the rear holes are larger than the front holes. I'll try running without the extra spacer. I'll also see what it will take for me to rerun the fuel lines as suggested by saintx1.
Thanks.
I just went out and took some pics of the stock manifold, spacer, and it all together with a Carter AFB carb. Send me an email at scc1909(No Email Addresses In Posts!) if you'd like me to send them to you. Stan