Glow Shift Quad Pillar?
#1
Glow Shift Quad Pillar?
99-07 Ford Super Duty PowerStroke Quad Custom Gauge Package
I was thinking about buying this Pillar Pod. What gauges should I buy with it. Towing over 10k lbs.? I already have the Scan Gauge II, but want to monitor the following using this gauge pod and setting alarms:
1. EGT 2400 deg
2. EOT
3. Water Temp
4. 100 Psi Fuel Pressure Gauge
Then I can use the Scan Gauge II for monitoring Transmission Fluid Temp, Voltage, Boost and maybe FICM?
Thoughts? Total cost is $266.97
I was thinking about buying this Pillar Pod. What gauges should I buy with it. Towing over 10k lbs.? I already have the Scan Gauge II, but want to monitor the following using this gauge pod and setting alarms:
1. EGT 2400 deg
2. EOT
3. Water Temp
4. 100 Psi Fuel Pressure Gauge
Then I can use the Scan Gauge II for monitoring Transmission Fluid Temp, Voltage, Boost and maybe FICM?
Thoughts? Total cost is $266.97
#2
For analog gauges, i would pick EGT (0-1600 gauge is all you need), boost (0-40 gauge) and fuel pressure (0-100). You could fill the 4th hole with something of your liking
Thats what i run on my truck, and i also have a scangauge. I use the scangauge for EOT/ECT/FICM/Voltage. Sometimes i switch FICM to trans temp, but i dont tow much. I have a buddy who bought EOT/ECT analog gauges and said they are kinda hard to read and wishes he stuck with something else. The EOT/ECT data coming from the computer to the scangauge is accurate as can be also
Also, if glowshift is what fits in your budget, that is great, but if you can swing the extra money i would definitely try to go with Isspro. I have EV2s, and they are excellent gauges
Thats what i run on my truck, and i also have a scangauge. I use the scangauge for EOT/ECT/FICM/Voltage. Sometimes i switch FICM to trans temp, but i dont tow much. I have a buddy who bought EOT/ECT analog gauges and said they are kinda hard to read and wishes he stuck with something else. The EOT/ECT data coming from the computer to the scangauge is accurate as can be also
Also, if glowshift is what fits in your budget, that is great, but if you can swing the extra money i would definitely try to go with Isspro. I have EV2s, and they are excellent gauges
#3
Thanks, tried to rep you, but it's telling me to spread it around. I must have repped you on another post already.
I'll have to read up on boost, don't I already have that in the Dash? I read that boosts over 25# will shorten the life of the turbo. What's up with that? So pedal to the floor passing on the highway will cause me problems? Man, I'm still learning.
I'll have to read up on boost, don't I already have that in the Dash? I read that boosts over 25# will shorten the life of the turbo. What's up with that? So pedal to the floor passing on the highway will cause me problems? Man, I'm still learning.
#4
1600* pyro, 100psi fuel pressure, maybe boost if you really want a mechanical number, and a volt meter. Those are the main things the computer either can't read, or can't do as well as a stand alone. I say voltage because I can get a .1-.4V difference between the batteries and monitor, so one wired to the engine and not through the comp will be more accurate. Boost (on a Scangauge at least) is a derived value between (IIRC) MAP and a fixed Baro value, meaning it might not always be as accurate as a mechanical gauge measuring MAP over actual baro at the gauge. Dash might be a MAP to BARO sensor comparison, so it would actually be better than a digital boost gauge.
ECT and EOT sending units read from certain places in the engine that you wouldn't be able to add an additional sending unit to, so read those through the computer for accuracy and more importantly, comparability. The books and most people here use the factory location for temp readings, so if you post up saying you have a 215*ECT read at random point X where you put your unit, there's no guarantee that it's the same as the factory location. If you use a monitor to check your aftermarket gauge, you just wasted the money on the add-on because you already have a way to verify it's accurate.
ECT and EOT sending units read from certain places in the engine that you wouldn't be able to add an additional sending unit to, so read those through the computer for accuracy and more importantly, comparability. The books and most people here use the factory location for temp readings, so if you post up saying you have a 215*ECT read at random point X where you put your unit, there's no guarantee that it's the same as the factory location. If you use a monitor to check your aftermarket gauge, you just wasted the money on the add-on because you already have a way to verify it's accurate.
#5
Thanks, tried to rep you, but it's telling me to spread it around. I must have repped you on another post already.
I'll have to read up on boost, don't I already have that in the Dash? I read that boosts over 25# will shorten the life of the turbo. What's up with that? So pedal to the floor passing on the highway will cause me problems? Man, I'm still learning.
I'll have to read up on boost, don't I already have that in the Dash? I read that boosts over 25# will shorten the life of the turbo. What's up with that? So pedal to the floor passing on the highway will cause me problems? Man, I'm still learning.
#6
Ok, so I think I'm ready to order, since I already have BOOST in the dash, I was going to order:
1. Pyrometer (1500 deg)
2. Transmission Temp
3. 100 psi Fuel Pressure
4. Voltmeter
But I noticed that GlowShift sells the whole kit for my truck for $249.99 on Ebay. It comes with Pyrometer, TFT, Fuel and Boost. I can't find any more info on it, but can I set alarms on the GlowShift? For say... Transmission temp alarm at 190 or something like that?
1. Pyrometer (1500 deg)
2. Transmission Temp
3. 100 psi Fuel Pressure
4. Voltmeter
But I noticed that GlowShift sells the whole kit for my truck for $249.99 on Ebay. It comes with Pyrometer, TFT, Fuel and Boost. I can't find any more info on it, but can I set alarms on the GlowShift? For say... Transmission temp alarm at 190 or something like that?
#7
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#8
I run the triple pillar pod from Glowshift with 0-100 PSI fuel, 0-2400 pyrometer, and 0-60 boost. The top pillar gauge is hard to read on the quad setup, not to mention the sun visor blocks it if you have it down. Total cost for the whole setup was like 220 which is extremely good and I've had excellent luck with everything. Fit great.
#9
I run the triple pillar pod from Glowshift with 0-100 PSI fuel, 0-2400 pyrometer, and 0-60 boost. The top pillar gauge is hard to read on the quad setup, not to mention the sun visor blocks it if you have it down. Total cost for the whole setup was like 220 which is extremely good and I've had excellent luck with everything. Fit great.
#10
I run a single gauge - that provides 2 different readings in one. (check my sig).
I think there are cheaper ways to read voltage than using a gauge on the pillar. I wish I had done fuel pressure and EGT in hindsight. I wanted to retain the grab handle - thus I went with the single pod (pics in my album)..
The trans in the 6L is well cooled and (thankfully) very boring to watch (unless you tow up real Mountains)
I think there are cheaper ways to read voltage than using a gauge on the pillar. I wish I had done fuel pressure and EGT in hindsight. I wanted to retain the grab handle - thus I went with the single pod (pics in my album)..
The trans in the 6L is well cooled and (thankfully) very boring to watch (unless you tow up real Mountains)
#11
#12
Thanks for the heads up on the Quad Pillar. I was thinking about the MaxTow gauges. I will be towing with mine soon. I have a 20 ft enclosed trailer filled with 4 wheelers/camping gear. Approx. Weight 7,000lbs. I really need to be watching TFT and EGT. I believe the Amarillo has the Boost in the dash right? If so, is there a reason why you went with an aftermarket boost gauge? Are you running a tune?
Yes, the Amarillo has the factory boost gauge. It's fine for factory boost but a tune can peg it as the factory MAP sensor is only good for ~29 PSI. I wanted something that was going to be completely acurate, especially for when I decide to start cranking up the boost. EGT and fuel pressure are a necessity because the factory OBD-II can't read those. I pull oil, coolant, and trans temp through Torque along with FICM power, voltage, HPOP PSI, and IPR% and some others so I've got all my bases covered. I like the analog needle sweep from the boost, fuel pressure, and pyrometer is it can show you exactly what's going on the truck instead of watching numbers bounce around on a screen rapidly.
#13
I bought the same gauges but with an overhead console, it sits above the mirror pretty nice although I haven't had time to permanently installed it yet.
#15