Just put an upgraded tranny in my flatbed in March. It wasn't an authentic Ford one, but came from a place where my size tranny is the smallest one they do. I've bought other trannys and rear ends from this place before and they've always been great! My understanding is that the one they sold me is the same as the HD4R100. Upgraded torque converter, no diode, etc. I had the tranny cooler flushed and also the lines. Anyway, its been great for 5 months. Yesterday, while my crew was pulling our mowing trailer, about 7000 lbs, the OD started flashing. It still runs, drives fine except it won't kick into OD on the highway. I also noticed a few days ago that the shifter lever needs to be adjusted because it doesn't quite latch into the OD position now without a little wiggle. Also, at the time of install, I replaced the electronic shift gizmo that the cable hooks up to. I realize I'm long winded here, but trying to give pertinent info that may be needed. My questions are;
1.) If I buy AE, will it read tranny codes?
2.) Should I stop driving immediately?
3.) Is it possible I overheated the tranny because I had no temp gauge? ( I never tow more than 7k)

 

take a look at this.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tch-short.html

 

Yes and 7 k should be no problem for your truck as far as overheating. Thats a walk in the park for your truck.

 

Ok. Well it sufficiently freaked me out where I've got my butt in gear and am sitting here looking at trans temp gauges on Clays site. I'm looking at the Isspro. Do I need a 100-280, or a 140-320?

 

100-280 gauge

 

Ok, I pulled the cover off the column and there were no wires visibly chafed. I pulled the plug out and plugged it back in hoping for a bad connection. No change. Tried putting the truck in OD to pull forward a little and it stalled out. Tried a half dozen times, same issue. Restarted, put it in reverse, no stall. Backed up a few feet, put it back into OD, no stall. Now I can start it and put it right into OD without it stalling but my light is still on. I unplugged /plugged my wire harness off my shift module(?), and adjusted my shift cable, but still have that darn flashing OD light. Guess I'm dead in the water till I get AE. Do you think I'm ok to drive it from my house back to my shop ( about 10 miles) or should I leave it be?

 

I guess your speedo works? Lot of times it is as easy as changing the speed sensor on the rear axle. Can the shop that rebuilt your trans check for codes?

 

Yeah, my speedo and tach both work. The shop I got the trans from us about an hr away, and I bought the unit and installed myself. It does have a warranty, but I guess I'll wait for AE to give me a better idea of what the problem is before I call them. Guess I'll pull the mowing trailer with the Mason dump and hope DMV isn't out and about for a few days!

 

Well, I'm waiting for AE to get here. Just thinking about it today, and while I'm going to wait and see what codes I pull, it does seem like it would have to be Torque Converter related. I'm an idiot when it comes to understanding automatic trannys, but shouldn't the TC prevent the truck from stalling when shifted into OD?

 

The torque converter should prevent the engine from stalling. Since it did stall most likely the torque converter was locked when it shouldn't be locked. That will stall the engine. Once you have ALL of the codes we can help you find out what's wrong. Don't just get the codes you think are related, we need ALL the codes.

 

Here are the codes I pulled just now. Not sure what they mean, but its all the raw data I have til I figure AE out a little better.
Codes off of Flatbed

B1352 Ignition key in circuit fault
B1302 Accessory delay relay circuit failure
PO 743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
PO 741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or stuck off

 

I wouldn't worry about the key in ignition code. Ford has some weird codes. Like if you do a KOER test and everything is fine it'll give you a P1000 which is weird. I would focus on the TCC codes. Basically it's telling you there is a fault in the TCC system. The way the TCC works is when you're cruising along in cruise control and in O/D the transmission says, "Hey why not give this guy maximum fuel economy?" and makes a mechanical connection between your engine and transmission that heretofore did not exist. That's what the TCC does. If you hit the brakes, slow down, etc the solenoid that feeds hydraulic pressure to the clutch is supposed to de-energize and the mechanical connection no longer exists.

According to my service info I am looking at (Snap-On Shopkey5.com) the symptoms of what you described (stalling when you put it in O/D) indicates a shorted TCC solenoid. To do all the tests Ford wants you to do requires more tools than most have. I'd start with the TCC solenoid. If you can find the connector for that solenoid and you have a DVOM you can do a resistance check across the solenoid. If it reads 0 ohms you have a verifiable shorted solenoid which would cause the clutch to be engaged all the time.

 

Ok, I'll check that first thing in the morning. Does anyone know which connector it is, or which pins it is in the main harness? I'm assuming that I should have resistance as long as that solenoid is not on? Also, is this the 'valve body' that I've read that some people get from John Woods, or is that different?

 

From the diagram I'm looking at it looks like you can do a resistance check by removing the connector that goes to all the pressure solenoids. Looks like it is in the tranny so probably connected to the valve body. You'll have to drop the oil pan. There should be a red with yellow striped wire and a purple with yellow striped wire. It is important that you disconnect the connector and test for resistance across the pins that connect to the wires. Do not test resistance across the terminals of the connector itself. You can destroy your PCM doing this. Determine which pins on the male side of the connection go to those wires and test for resistance there. If it is less than 5 ohms you should replace the torque converter clutch solenoid.

 

You can also disconnect the main harness from your PCM and check resistance between either one of the solid red wires and the purple with yellow stripe wire. The red wire is the power supply to the solenoids, the purple with yellow stripe is the ground for the TCC solenoid.