My Ex died on me last night while driving at 70mph, and wouldn't start again, it was turning over fast but not firing and I noticed the theft light flashing fast. After about half an hour it then allowed the car to start, I drove for about 5 minutes then it died again, and I had to call a recovery truck to get home.

It showed a code of P1260 Theft detected. The Ex is now running and starting ok, but I want to find or fix the problem so I'm not left stranded again (and I had my Wife and kids with me too)

I only have one key at the moment, and being in the UK, none of the dealers here will touch the Ex, so I'm thinking of bypassing/deleting PATS if possible?

I've now read tons of stuff on the internet, and some say that programmers like SCT can delete PATS or custom tune builders can delete it too - I was going to get a custom tune at some point anyway, so if it is possible, I'd like to get one asap and delete PATS at the same time?

Is there anything I should be checking in the meantime? Like replace a relay, check wires? I did the same when I first bought the Ex about 8 months ago, but at the time I thought it was the fuel pump, so did the hutch tank mod and checked the whole fuel system etc, and it hasn't done it since so I thought it was fixed

Any help or advice appreciated!

 

Double check your battery and alternator. Low voltage will confuse the electronics. You want 12+ volts before you start and 13+ once running..

 

OK thanks, I'll check it tomorrow. I think the voltage is ok as it's not slow to start, and we had driven a while before the engine cut out.

I've been lazy about getting a second key, so I'll make sure I get one, then work from there

 

First off, PATS can never disable an engine that is already running. It was not the cause of the original engine stall.

However, there are faults that interrupt the operating power to the PCM that cause the PATS system to reset back to it's "on guard" condition. Most commonly, this is due to an interruption in the power feed to the PCM and to the cluster. The most common culprit is an ailing PCM Power Relay.

A second (and 3rd and 4th) key is a wise idea. The 2nd one will not be cheap, though, if you only have one operating key in your possession. Subsequent keys are inexpensive and easy, but you must have two different operational keys first.

Yes, custom tuners can do a PATS-delete.

 

Great, thanks for that - that's just kind the kind of info I was looking for! Reps sent

I did wonder if the PATS would only work on starting, but don't know enough about these trucks yet. I've recently bought a Haynes workshop manual, so I'll have a look and see if it lists what and where the PCM relay is.

I get a lot of relay problems with our newer Volvo tractor trucks - they seem to have relays for everything, but also seem to wear out quite quickly too, so our drivers have to keep spare relays in the cab! I feel stupid now for not checking the relays, as I probably could have just swapped one instead of getting a recovery truck out!

 

Owner's manual will have fuse and relay info, see my signature.

You'll find the Haynes will be next to useless for problems such as this.

 

Hahaha, you're one step ahead of me each time! I've spent the last couple of hours with the Haynes manual, and the truck...........gave up and thought I'd search on here for the relay location..........as you're right the Haynes manual is useless! I thought it would have fuse and relay locations and numbers!

 

ProjectSHO89 - thanks for your link for the owners manual, I found the PCM relay to be number 302, so I started the truck, ran for a few minutes then pulled the relay, and the engine cut out, so I tried starting and it would only turn over while the theft light flashed - so it kind or re created how it was when I was broken down.

I swapped the relay with number 301 (front heater blower) so I can see if the blower stops working sometimes or not, as I thought that would be piece of mind if the blower stops working, as I would then know it was the relay causing the problem.

The only slight concern I have is, when the PCM relay is out, my code reader wont read any codes, as it thinks the ignition is turned off - and when I was broken down and the truck wouldn't start I could read the codes ok.

I'll get the second key ordered, and keep an eye on the blower, and go from there...........and use it as an excuse to tell the Wife I need a custom tune to disable the PATS

Thanks again

 

New here, been following new threads to get familiar with the ex i just picked up...
What is involved in getting a 2nd key made as I was only given one when I bought it?
Assuming rig is bone stock would getting a tuner to delete pats and tune make sense?

 

Hey Enormiss! Welcome to the club, I love your screen name. Congratulations on getting an Ex, I'm sure we'd all love to hear about it ( year, engine, trim level, 4x4?, you know the drill....... Oh and how much you paid if you don't mind).

May I suggest that you introduce yourself to the group with your own thread? You've maybe seen others do this, if you've been lurking. It's a great way for people to 'meet' you. They might miss you if you're buried deep in a thread like this one .

As for your questions, I know a second key is like a couple hundred bucks at the dealer (or more, not sure) but the dealer has to do it so the key is programmed for your Ex. Not sure why the third and fourth keys are cheaper, maybe 'projectSHO89' could elaborate for us?

I dont know about the custom tuner, will defer to others on that.

Good luck,
Karl

 

buy a PATS key on eBay, or 3. should run you about $10-15 shipped for a PATS key that will work on your X

then pay the Dealership for about 1/2 hour of labor to program that 2nd key for you.

once you have 2 keys, you can program up to 4 total keys for your X

this is a thread about PATS I did a few years ago. hope it helps
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...pats-info.html

 

If the dealer won't touch your car in the UK, you obviously need another route to get this done. I just purchased an autoenginuity SP03 bundle. It includes the hardware for the "enhanced features". I bought it because I'm tired of guessing when something goes wrong...

Anyhow, I read in the marketing stuff that it offers PATS support. I don't know exactly what that means since I actually have not received the shipment yet but I'm hopeful it offers a way to program a key since I only have one.

I wouldn't buy the autoenginuity setup just for the PATS feature (if it actually programs keys) as there are cheaper routes to go. But it might work for you. The diagnostic capabilities are amazing.

Check with autoenginuity themselves about the PATS capability if you're curious.

PS

I'm English but live in Colorado these days. I can only imagine some of the looks you get driving an Excursion around. You're either really popular or really unpopular.

Mark

 

Thanks for the info and sorry for the hijack matt's dad

 

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the info, and sorry for a long delay in replying (we've had a couple of holidays and my Wife was then in a car crash so I haven't had much spare time!)

I'll look into the SP03 bundle, I've never heard of it before!

I have now got a second key - A local locksmith ordered a blank key in, then copied my chip and made an exact copy, then cut the metal part - It works ok, and only cost about $20

I had the truck stop once more since using the new key, and since I replaced the relays - I was just sitting there running to charge my TT batteries and it cut out and wouldn't start again. I left it a few hours, turned the key and it started straight away?!

Colorado (Denver) was the first place I ever saw an Excursion! It was a rental car we had, and I loved it and said one day I'd buy one I think I've got a picture somewhere of my family next to it outside a diner called Rosies I think..............

Chris

No worries, it's a good place to find out some useful info from some nice people!