When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I made the mistake of trying to teach my granddaughter to drive my f-250, she shifted into overdrive at about 20 mph instead of 3rd gear and killed the engine. Now it won't start. 1/2 full of fuel, electric fuel pump runs and delivers fuel to the new clean filter. The HPOP reservoir is full of oil, tried unplugging the ICP and still no start. The batteries are new and fully charged so it cranks over like it should. Glow plug relay appears to be working. I had my in-law mechanic run the codes with his Snap On reader and the CPS was dead so we replaced it and the ICP is oily so its being replaced and all the wiring harness and connectors are in good shape and tightly plugged in. After all those checks still no start. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim. 1999 Ford f-250 ext cab short bed 199000 miles, 7.3 and zf6 speed.
Last edited by Moe power stroker; Aug 1, 2013 at 09:44 PM.
Reason: Miss spelled
Sorry you haven't gotten any responses yet. I've moved your thread to the 1999 - 2003 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel forum. Hopefully you'll get some response here.
Shifting from 2rd to 5th (or 3rd to 6th if you look at it that way) should not cause the truck to stall and not start up again. When it died, did it feel and sound like she just lugged it down real bad from skipping a couple of gears, or did it shut off like the key was turned off?
Have you cranked for 20 seconds and checked the codes again after replacing the CPS (CMP sensor)? Are you getting any faint smoke out the tail pipe while cranking? Engine oil full? Wait to start light and all other dash lights functioning normally or do some stay on or not come on?
It lugged down and died, I have cranked it for over a minute with no smoke from tailpipe, no codes present after changing CPS and batteries, wait to start light, service engine light and all others turn on before cranking and cycle off normally when cranking. IDM fuse ok, ECM fuse ok, engine oil full, HPOP housing full. Fuel at filter housing, however I borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge and will test the fuel pressure tomorrow. I also plan to get a high pressure oil test kit and test the injection oil pressure, one idea I have is the HPOP gear may have broke, but I want to check the pressure before tearing into the HPOP housing. If my HPOP is bad or the fuel pressure regulator is bad I have an entire spare 7.3 from my previous truck that I can use for a parts source. It was changed out with a wrecking yard complete engine because it had no compression at number 5 cylinder.
Last edited by Moe power stroker; Aug 1, 2013 at 09:51 PM.
Reason: Additional information
I wonder if the IPR could've shuttled all the way in one direction and got stuck? Somone with more knowledge should chime in on this, just trying to get the wheels turning. You should be able to see IPR duty % and ICP with the snap on scanner. The ones I have used had similar capability to the AE guys.
Just out of curiosity... Have you checked the 30amp fuse that powers the ECM? If your fuel bowl heater was going out but hadn't "shorted" yet, that last chug and the engine dying could of bumped it enough to finally short and blow the fuse. I hit a bump in mine when on the interstate and it shorted and blew the fuse.
Should be the only 30amp fuses in the box under the dash. I believe 2nd column from the right all the way to the bottom.
If it is blown, unplug the fuel heater then replace the fuse.
Thank you all for the good suggestions, I checked the ECM fuse, it was ok, unplugged the fuel heater any way to avoid future problems in case it ever does run again. I got home too late to check the fuel pressure, Still no codes, all dashboard messages still working and tach moves up when cranking so no major electrical problems inside the cab, and no blown fuses in the power center under the hood, and its 95 degrees here so glow plugs are not an issue. Rebuilt IDMs can be had for $129-179 on ebay, might worth it to get one for testing purposes.
No smoke while cranking means no fuel in the cylinders. So either no injection or no fuel to the injectors.
When my PCM went bad I noticed two things: no fuel pressure on the fuel pressure gauge and no LED from the GPR. Here is that thread, might be worth a read.
I checked the fuel pressure today, 65 pounds at the test port after the filter and that was with a leak at the test fitting. I ordered a high pressure oil gauge so I can test the exact pressure at the heads to make sure the HPOP and fuel pressure regulator are working. I have not had a chance to check the ohms on the valve cover injection harness plugs, I was told that if they go bad the ECM won't send a signal to the injectors. Thanks again for the suggestions, my other 7.3 in my dually ran for 10 years for me with no trouble at all so I am surprised at the problems with this one.
The ECM doesn't send signal directly to the injectors. It controls the injector drive module, wich controls the injectors. If you had someone close with AE scan tool, you could do a buzz test. That would fire the injectors individually. If it didn't fire them, then you're looking at bad PCM, idm, or wiring between.
The "injector harness plug" you are referring to is called the UVCH (under valve cover harness). It can go bad, as can the valve cover gaskets, which typically results in rough running, not a no start. Also, each side is separate, so if one went out, the other should still be firing, resulting in smoke out the tail pipe. Not ruling it out, but my experience with no starts typically don't result in the UVCH or valve cover gaskets.
Let us know if you check the high pressure oil what the readings are.
Ok, it will be a few days before I get the HPOP gauge and fittings together, I had order the gauge from valley hydraulic, for $10.19. I can't buy anything locally because no stores here stock any of the parts I need, one of the Diesel performance vendors on the internet sells a complete gauge hose and fittings for $105, but I was able to put it all together for around $35. I did not want to spend too much on diagnostics in case I need an IDM, ECM, or other expensive electrical parts.
Last edited by Moe power stroker; Aug 4, 2013 at 09:10 PM.
Reason: more info
If anyone is still following this thread, I got the high pressure gauge and hose set up today and cranked the truck, it shot right up to 3000 psi then leveled off and held steady at 2200 psi until I stopped cranking. That would seem to confirm that the IPR and HPOP are in working condition. Still no codes, still no smoke, still no start, brand new cam position sensor, and ICP sensor, 65 psi of fuel after filter. PCM is powered up, no way to know if the IDM is working.
Buzz test. It's time for further diagnostic capabilities. Good HPO and good fuel pressure with no smoke is indicative of the idm not communication with the injectors, so it's either an idm or the PCM.