When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, I knew if I worked at it long enough, I'd screw up something. I ended up breaking a bolt head on my EGR valve. I guess now I will have to get someone to get it out, and still find out what is wrong with my truck. I'll keep those interested informed.
"Thermactor" is the fancy name for the catalytic converter.
Use plenty of Liquid Wrench on the other EGR bolt, and when you remove that one, you should be able to put some vise grips on what's left of the broken one. (Use LW on it, too! )
But an EGR code is rarely set by a bad EGR - it's usually caused by a problem in the vacuum system that controls the EGR.
Thanks for the tip steve on getting the broken bolt out of there, I'll give it a try this afternoon when I get home from work. Yes, there sould be plenty of bolt left to get out with a vise grips. So the code 44 is for replacing the cat, or just that there is something wrong with the whole cat system?
Umm actually the cats are in the exhaust, I want to make it clear that the THERMACTOR is no where near the catalytic converters! It is connected to the air pump on the engine. As I've said on 5L mustangs they run down the passenger side of the engine, can't say where they are on F series trucks.
Again these are nothing like cats! Do yourself a favor and go to Ford and ask them to print out the thermactor assembly or at least what's attached to the air pump. I know for a fact that replacing cats to fix a thermactor problem doesn't help.
I have the Ford CD that the dealerships use (3 of them, actually) and the thermactor IS the catalytic converter. "Thermal reactor" because a cat has to get hot before the platinum catalyst will trigger the reaction between the leftover HCs in the exhaust and the oxygen supplied by the smog pump. The cats ARE connected to the smog pump thru the bypass/diverter valve, and the 2 check valves (one going to the heads and one to the cats), so it IS what cowtown is describing.
A code NEVER means you should rush out and buy a replacement part - it only says the computer thinks something is wrong. It's ALWAYS up to you to determine a) if there is ACTUALLY something wrong, b) exactly what it is, and c) the most cost-effective way to fix it. "Thermactor air system fault" is VERY general, but understanding how the system works will narrow it down a LOT. When you realize that the ONLY connection the computer has to the thermactor system is by the TAD & TAB solenoid valves on the top of the engine (and to a lesser degree, thru the oxygen sensor), you'll realize that that code only means that one of them has too much or not enough resistance. The Haynes manual shows how to test them with a multimeter.
I'm just saying from experience that in the year and a half battle with that exact problem Ford chased it like you wouldn't believe. I had my cats replaced not once, but twice to no avail.
Sure it could be bad cats, but it's no big deal to replace the bypass/diverter valves which was the source of the problem in both 5L's I had.
hi i'm new to this but i was having a problem with surges at a idle
and it wants to almost stall out
i started looking around and tapped the E.V.R. valve with my
wrenchand the motor straightenened right out like i mean the
idle was perfect it never sounded better.
so i left it for a week to see if would return to a bad idle.
and make sure it was not just a fluke.
well it happened 3 more times and when i hit the EVR.
IT RAN PERFECT so i got a new valve at adealer 36 bucks.
all seems good now. this valve controles vacc to the egr.
its in the haynesmanual on page on page 6-8 emissions controls systems.
Well, it looks as if I will be taking the truck to a shop when I think I can afford it. With as many miles as the truck has on it (at least 145,000) I'm thinking about having the engine rebuilt, but I'm not sure if it is worth it. I do love the truck, so would it be better to have someone rebuilt the engine, or to just have a new engine installed? I think all the gaskets can use replacing for sure, and I noticed most of my hoses are about shot now, and I've always had a power steering leak with the wide tires on it. Speaking of the Cats though, I believe mine were removed as I have dual pipes coming out the right side of the truck now and that would explain the Termacter code I got, right?. It is not a requirement to have them in New Mexico. In other words, I'm not sure I can rely on any of my codes with modifications like this. I'm not a mechanic, but I figure for $2,000 I should be able to get the truck up and running very well. Anyone have any comments?
Having dual pipes coming out the side of the truck doesn't necessarily mean someone took the cat(s) out. Someone could have just put on a muffler with dual outs. Removing the cats is a federal issue, not a state issue. If you don't have any emission testing or inspections in your area then you don't have much to worry about though. I doubt the thermactor code you are getting is caused by a missing cat. My truck has no cats (didn't even think to check when I bought it) and I don't get a code.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.