I'm looking for a source for the axle shaft studs:

They appear to be 7/16x14 on one side, and 7/16x20 on the other. They are 2 inches long and have a 1/2 inch or so non threaded section in the center for the compression cone.

 

I got a full set, left and right, front and back, with nuts from Green Sales Co. Do you have the Ford service manual CD? Part numbers are in there.
I'll bump this to top, might get a better answer.

 

^ You're referring to the CD parts catalog. Dunno about any CD Service Manual - that wouldn't have part numbers listed. ^
Is the following what you're asking for? Saying "axle shaft studs" is vague.

1948/56 Ford Truck Parts Catalog (available on a CD from hipoparts.com) symbols: T = F5/F500 / TL = F4 / TH = F6/F600.

51-1107 .. Right Front/Rear Hub Bolt / Obsolete

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 16 = 607-722-5371.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 21 = 800-543-4959.
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51-1108 .. Left Front/Rear Hub Bolt / Obsolete

NOS ONLY in San Jose CA has 5 = 800-667-6659.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 6 = 972-937-2201.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has 6.

 

Bill,

I'm not refering to the studs for the lug nuts...



I'm looking at the studs with compression cones used near gasket 1144.

~Brian

 

Original: 372430-S100 .. Stud-Axle Shaft to Hub / 7/16" -14 x 7/16" -20 x 2 5/8" long / Obsolete/Replaced

B7TZ-1151-D (replaced B7TZ-1151-B & C; 372430-S100) .. Stud-Axle Shaft to Hub / 7/16" -14 x 7/16 -20 x 2" long / Obsolete

1948/52 F2/F6 / 1953/79 F250/600.

MANDERBACH FORD in Temple PA has 58 = 888-225-4364.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 336 = 800-543-4959.

 

Mr NumberDummy, do you happen to know the proper name and part number for the conical washer/keeper devices used therein?

 

Does a bear **** in the woods? Do birds fly and ducks swim?

Basic part number 1142 Adapter - Rear Axle Shaft Stud (some people refer to them as dowels).

BB-1142-B ~ Specs not listed in 1948/56 truck catalog, but are listed in 1957/63 truck catalog.

Note: FoMoCo changed the package quantity of a gazillion parts in the late '80's. When the IDIOTS did this, they changed the part numbers suffixes, rendering all the previous part numbers obsolete!

So: BB-1142-C replaced BB-1142-B = Both are now Obsolete ~ Over 800 of both available NOS

Left: 1948/56 / Right: 1957/63.

 

It is time to reassemble everything... I know when I took it all apart, I lost a great amount of lubricating oil. What weight/type oil do I use, how much, and do I fill it via the pinion housing?

 

Remove drain plug from (center) housing and drain old lube. Replace drain plug. Remove fill plug and, with axle level, fill till lube just trickles out fill hole. Replace fill plug.
I used straight 90 wt in Albatross, with a little Lucas gear lube (seal snot) thrown in. It held right at a gallon if I rebmener rite.

 

Thanks for the part numbers, oil spec and everything! I've got one side done, however, the other side is blocked - the hub/drum assebly I removed as one piece is still in one piece. I've put it on a 20 ton shop press to try to seperate it, but I got to the point where I could see seperation through the retainer screw holes in a concave fashion and was fearful that going further would destroy the drum and I don't have a spare. So, any suggestions on how to get them apart?

 

Heat might do it. My NOS drum came with instructions to use a stud cutter to shave the OD of the studs because they swell when pressed in. Your drum may be hung on them.

Also, make sure that Ford didn't install three large flathead screws to hold them together on the line.

 

How would I apply heat as it is a little too late to shave the studs (if that is the issue). I've got a pretty good propane torch, but not acetylene.

 

Its a little odd for each side having different TPI ??? Hub must have been replaced (maybe) yes removing drums can be stubborn, with we do is apply some heat spray with some snake oil (little fire might flair up) and more heat, the heat will suck in the oil. Sometimes its a do over & over & over thing. Remember the drums did'nt grow in there they will come off. My local Ford dealer has the
studs & litlle cones. dozen in a pack

 

Big Job,

Each side has the same hub/drum setup, just one side seperated in no issue once I worked the 3 screws out. This other stubbron side is driving me nuts... I threw some penetrating oil and heated the sucdker with my propane torch and went at it for about 45 minutes last evening and feel like I got nowhere... Also, if it is this difficult to get it all apart, how easy will it to put the drum back on!! I love my old vehicles and working on them, but when things get stubbron, I get unhappy and discourageda ll too quickly.

 

When putting them on, you'll fortunately have the threads working to your advantage.