Bill, Thanks, that's what I was hoping would work.

 

Mid-fifties don't have the same issues, the BonusBuilts essentially have a major structural member across the frame almost even with the top of the rails. It supports the brake and clutch pedals and is "the" anchor point for the cab and frame rails.

They're all over for $75 - $100, they just need $500 worth of rebuilding and if you're lucky they aren't even filled with rainwater. Mine had broken side gears, bad wheel bearings, totally shot brakes, etc. Still, I ended up with all new parts, better than paying $500 for one that's half worn out.

Fbb, yes the D44 brake cables slide right into the 9" backing plates. Some 9" have the exact same brakes, they are all Bendix.

 

Ross, Also thanks to you for a prompt reply.

 

Ax, this seems to be a "east of the mississippi / west of the mississippi" issue.. from talking to a bunch of folks it seems that east of the miss a ford 9" is rare and pricey, out here west of the miss I can walk into just about any you-pull-it-yourself yard and hit 3 or 4 of em with the first stone.
I got mine from u-pull-n-pay aurora co, went to lkq aurora and there were a few there, went to u-pull-n-pay denver and they had dozens (albiet about half were robbed of gears).

original poster is in UT, so hence I posted the pricing seen out here.

These are all high volume yards, nothing sits more than 90 days, at the 90th day it gets crushed... so a person would have to have a big desire to repeat visit if you want something specific and rare.

 

Worse comes to worse, the cables are available. Napa store should be able to supply them.

 

Brain, here the racers grab them up, roundy round guys, off roaders, as well as drag racers and street rodders. There's this mystique around the 9" (yes, they can be made near bulletproof, but with a lot of aftermarket parts.) 8.8s are a dime a dozen, usually in much better condition, better chance of finding a desirable ratio and can be had with disk brakes already installed, and are about as strong as an average stock 9". If he is going to put disks on the front anyhow he can order the conversion with bolt pattern to match the 8.8, and there is a lot bigger choice of wheels for the smaller pattern,
Or since the 8.8 is going to need 1" spacers you can get the spacers drilled to adapt the 8.8 to the early pattern if you want to keep that pattern for some reason.

 

I called the only two yards within 100 miles of me and ask for 69, 70, 71,72 years F-100 rear ends. One yard had none, the other had two, they didn't know what gear ratios.. Insurance say's they pull-it. Price was $200.00 + tax. I opted for the one with the cut off ebrake cables. Paid $150.00, 3.50 gears. The drums were rusted some, but the shoes were almost new thickness. I'll probably get new spring kits, clean up the drums, inspect inside and change the lube. Run it and see what happens.

 

I'd change out the wheel cylinders while it's apart, they are inexpensive and real good insurance, both from leaking and breaking off the bleeders when you go to bleed them. Change the hard line too, easy to do while the rear is out on the ground.
3.5 is a good all around town ratio and matches up well to an OD tranny for long distance/high speed cruisin.

 

I would go a step further and replace all the 9" brake parts (cylinders, spring/hardware kit, shoes). I think I had under $70 into everything new and drums turned (that was $32 in itself).

 

Hi Brent, I am new here also. I am rebuilding a 1949 F1 and am a little further along than you are, I'm ready to paint. I installed a SBC and 700R4 with no problems. I bought Chassis Engineering Inc (don't forget the Inc or you will go to the wrong web page) motor mounts, tranny mount and master brake mount. It all went together easy. They provide complete instructions with required measurements to locate motor mounts and transmission mount for various transmissions. Lokar has emergency brake cables that will connect to the original e-brake handle under dash and to the brakes.

 

Ken, Thanks for the info on mounts etc. I have looked at Chassis Engineering Inc. a little, due to references from other members build pages. What did you do for a radiator? I am looking at some all aluminum ones. Two row and three row to fit the Ford F1 mounting bracket, but with hose positions for the SBC. Don't know if I need one with or without a fan.

I designed and built concrete bridges for a living, auto mechanics is a new education for me. Today I am learning about Ford 9" drum brakes and their repair. Thank Al Gore for the internet. So much to learn.

 

I bought a Walker radiator. It bolts directly to the original radiator support with no modifications needed. I am using the short water pump with a 2" spacer and there is 3" from fan blade to radiator. Walker radiator web site will walk you through which radiator you need. They ask hose locations, engine bored, AC and more, then list radiator you need. I also put one of these in my 1939 Ford Deluxe coupe and it works great.
I go to car shows and look at similar year trucks for ideas, ask lots of questions because most people showing their car like to share their experiences and they are bored, and visit web sites like this and Hotrodders.com. Another source of information is your local auto parts stores. Internet sales stores will show all of the different parts available with pictures and specifications. LMC Truck, Summit Racing, JEGS, Lokar Performance, Bob Drake Reproductions and many more. EBAY will have some of the harder to find parts. Craigslist is a treasure to not be over looked. People selling parts there usually are working on a project similar to what you have and are more than willing to pass along helpful advice. They also were once looking for parts so hopefully will pass along there resources to you.
If it weren't for Al's internet, restoring these old cars and trucks would be next to impossible. The country wide resources would not be available to the extent that that they are today.

 

I hear ya on the Ford should get a Ford powerplant.. but if the SBC is already running... its a tough call

 

Historically every engine brand have found their way into Fords, so there is precedence to use whatever you want, besides it's your truck and hot rodding is all about modifying vehicles to your own personal vision.

 

I saw this on the HAMB, and I think it is a valid perspective:

"Flathead engines that set world records did this with slightly above 200 hp, and this was only arrived at after years of testing and breaking things, it was fragile and very expensive. The fastest flathead engine you can make was inferior to a STOCK 1956 New Yorker engine. Nonsense? No, Don Garlits said so. His pickup truck with a stock junkyard Chrysler 331 was only slightly slower than his flathead rail.

You don't have to "build" a nailhead, Rocket, Chizler etc. at all - the late 1950s stock engines with no speed equipment are beyond what [flathead] Fords can produce. Cheap example: stock 1958 Saratoga polyspheric 354: 310 hp. Ford [flathead] V8 310 hp is nitrous and a blower... for about 30 seconds.

No one in 1955 said "I'm going for the traditional 65 hp Model B engine for the kewl factor".