Got it done and the truck runs great. Way more response and power everywhere. Now I am waiting on my luminosity probe to arrive so I can time it properly. I adjusted the FIPL to 1.200 closed to 4.375(all it's got) open and the trans shifts better than before too. Pump marks are straight up.

So this project saw: New fuel pump/hose, Fuel Filter(Baldwin BF1222-SP, nice!), new seals on fuel line to IP, Rebuilt IP, new injectors, and Dipaco return kit that is already leaking. I followed all the tips and instructions here and I get no love for it.

I filled the filter with ATF and Diesel Kleen to start it. It took 7, 8-10 second cranks to get fuel at the injectors. I tightened them down and it fired up and shook a second the cleared right up and was running on high idle. I was expecting an improvement but man - it sounds mean now! Light acceleration takes much less throttle now and the RPM's climb right on up like the truck is 2000 lbs lighter. Just wants to pull hard.

All in all, it was easier than I thought it would be. I can see where someone may get into trouble w/o reading up first. This forum has been a great resource and thanks to all who helped!

 

Great to hear! Good job!

 

you can't beat a fresh,properly tuned idi with a stick.
i suggest the ferret adapter w/light for timing.

try this injector return kit:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12877462

 

I'll put together that kit with the Viton o-rings. I'll be able to do this in my sleep before long.

The luminosity probe is already on its way to me.

One question: Why do you suggest this method? I don't doubt your experience or seek to start an argument. Just curious why we may see it differently.

My theory(KEY WORD) is that the lumy should be a more accurate timing indicator because it "sees" the combustion in the cylinder which is exactly what is being timed and is the end result of the injection of fuel. We want to make sure that the peak combustion pressure occurs after the crank has passed TDC by a very slight amount. This gives as near real time indication as possible.
My question about the piezoelectric sensor is about calibration relative to injector discharge. At what point in the pressure curve does the sensor trigger the light? All injectors are different and the sensor can't(to my knowledge) be individually calibrated to true injection timing or pop pressure. Rather it triggers at a preset level of deformation(pressure). Additionally, more variables are introduced by installation and surface prep. This may be in the realm of horseshoes and hand grenades but it seems to have an inherent level of inaccuracy right out of the gate. The luminosity probe is likely a photoelectric sensor and light travels very fast with no mechanical component to slow or influence it.

Again, no attempt to be disruptive. Just bouncing my ideas around. I am new to this world.

 

your correct and i used to fully enjoy timing via lumy as well.
the first issue is,many of the meters that time this way,are no longer in production,and getting a working used one is no easy feat.you can find real nice ones and are still in production even,but they're very costly.several hundred dollars.
lastly,then you must know the cetane rating of your diesel fuel to time the engine correctly.

though the pulse method may not be as accurate technically,the difference you may get between the two timing methods,could be eaten up while tightening up the ip nuts again.
but if you found a good meter for timing via luminosity that's cool.i kinda miss mine.
don't forget to buy a hydrometer to estimate cetane value.



you can't use a luminosity to pulse light adapter like sold on ebay,because there is no way to convert this to the 0 Degree mark on the balancer........not that i know of.
the meters have a built in -20 offset.

 

Through discussion via PM with another member here it sounds like the Fox Valley comes with timing instructions to account for this offset. It may just be a matter of dialing more or less time into the light to simulate -20 degrees. Say I zero up with 30 degrees dialed in and back it up to zeroed at 25, that should be 5 degrees ATDC, right?

It has been several years since I timed anything with a light. Either way I will try to keep this thread updated with what I find.

Maybe if I have anything resembling success I will post a how to on what I learned.

Thanks again FordF250 for the input and Macrobb for the link and info on the adapter.