Help! I'm lost on this one!!
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New User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 6
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Help! I'm lost on this one!!
My 1988 F150 (302, AOD, dual tanks) will crank, runs rough at idle. Pushing throttle slightly will stall the engine. Push it all the way down and it doesn't stall, it also does not increase engine speed. Nothing increases engine speed. It remains at 600-700 rpm or stalls. I have replaced the low pressure pump in the front tank, the high pressure external pump, fuel filter, FPR, and sent the injectors off to injector Jim for ultrasonic cleaning and reinstalled. Pressure 35, 37 with vac hose off. Disconnected the fuel return line at valve and has good flow into pan with the engine running. ACT, TSP, check good. Nothing has changed the symptoms. This is my first time on the forum. Help!!!
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 203
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From: San Diego
Help! I'm lost on this one!!
Pull the codes. The Key On Engine Running test will tell you what the problem is.
Have you pulled codes before? You can do it with a code reader or with a paperclip to watch the blinking lite. The code reader is obviously more expensive but is faster, easier, and almost error free.
WalMart has an INNOVA "blinking LED" versiion for about $25 which is better than the paper clip but requires counting flashes or beeps. The INNOVA digital readout is the same as the the blinking LED version except the numbers are read directly. Buy this one at codereader.com. It is by far the best and costs (with extension cable) around $70.
Good luck, Robert.
Have you pulled codes before? You can do it with a code reader or with a paperclip to watch the blinking lite. The code reader is obviously more expensive but is faster, easier, and almost error free.
WalMart has an INNOVA "blinking LED" versiion for about $25 which is better than the paper clip but requires counting flashes or beeps. The INNOVA digital readout is the same as the the blinking LED version except the numbers are read directly. Buy this one at codereader.com. It is by far the best and costs (with extension cable) around $70.
Good luck, Robert.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 203
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From: San Diego
Help! I'm lost on this one!!
By the way, the digital codereader comes with a book which explains all the tests and how to do them.
Chiltons book for the truck you have also explains the paperclip method and has the explanations for the codes. An autoparts store will have the book.
Regards, Robert.
Chiltons book for the truck you have also explains the paperclip method and has the explanations for the codes. An autoparts store will have the book.
Regards, Robert.
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 74
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Help! I'm lost on this one!!
Robert,
Question about the code reader.
I ordered the digital reader but the cable is on back order. I assume that I will not be able to see the unit from the cab without the cable. Will the unit store all of the codes for review?
Question about the code reader.
I ordered the digital reader but the cable is on back order. I assume that I will not be able to see the unit from the cab without the cable. Will the unit store all of the codes for review?
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 519
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From: CT
Help! I'm lost on this one!!
Did you go back to the basics and check that you have the spark plug wires connected in the proper firing sequence,etc?
I second holding the throttle body open by hand.
I second holding the throttle body open by hand.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 203
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From: San Diego
Help! I'm lost on this one!!
The only problem with not having the extension cable (I hope it shows up soon!) is that it will take two of you to pull the codes.
One of you will operate the meter plugged into the test connector, the other will do (behind the steering wheel) what the other says. When certain numbers come up during the Key-On-Engine-Running test you will have to turn the steering wheel, step on the brake, and race the engine (just step on the gas quickly), to test sensors. The codes will be read at the end.
If you prop it up just right, you might be able to read the numbers under the opening in the hood with the hood open, and do the test yourself. I haven't tried that, though.
Good luck, (you bought the right code reader),
Robert.
One of you will operate the meter plugged into the test connector, the other will do (behind the steering wheel) what the other says. When certain numbers come up during the Key-On-Engine-Running test you will have to turn the steering wheel, step on the brake, and race the engine (just step on the gas quickly), to test sensors. The codes will be read at the end.
If you prop it up just right, you might be able to read the numbers under the opening in the hood with the hood open, and do the test yourself. I haven't tried that, though.
Good luck, (you bought the right code reader),
Robert.
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New User
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Help! I'm lost on this one!!
I checked the KOEO codes with an LED checker from Walmart. Got 11's on both sets of codes. I then ran the KOER test and the engine code was correct. I'm not sure what to do after that. The book says to run the engine at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes before doing the KOER test. Mine will only go 700 and increase to about 850 max before stalling out. I did try turning the steering wheel and stepping on the brake as the book says for the KOER test after the correct engine code is received. I did not get any led's after the engine code nor did I get any additional error codes.
Moving the throttle by hand from the engine compartment doesn't change the symptoms. I can observe the butterfly's and see that they are in fact opening though.
Also, I did re-check the spark plug wires for correct order and the spark plugs are new. I replaced them early on and it made no change in the symptoms.
Any suggestions?
Moving the throttle by hand from the engine compartment doesn't change the symptoms. I can observe the butterfly's and see that they are in fact opening though.
Also, I did re-check the spark plug wires for correct order and the spark plugs are new. I replaced them early on and it made no change in the symptoms.
Any suggestions?
