I have a 2005 ford f-150 and my drivers side power window is stuck in the down position. It happened last nite when I rolled the widow up it made this klank sound and the window just started rolling down and it got stuck there. The motor sounds like its working because I can hear it and it sounds like the metal rod is still going up and down cuz I can hear it scratching the window. Do you think the window just fell off the rod or what?

 

You are going to have to take the door panel off and find out. Psych yourself up a little bit, because working on window mechanisms is never any fun.

 

Hello all, thanks for the help. I agree with drill the holes where the dimples are under the speaker. I also went a step further and took my tin snips to the hole and enlarged it just enough to grab the screws (dropping them is a drag) also once you get the motor out and the gear cover off make sure you clean all the old gear lube out, you may find lots of broken plastic teeth in it, the new replacement gear will have a packet of lube with it. If you leave the broken teeth in there it will break your new gear. Hope this helps someone else, it was a 20 minute job and 20 bucks for the repair kit.

PS...Leave the window regulator alone, don't drill the rivets out. just way more work to assemble.

 

My wife drives a 2000 windstar. The drivers side window motor is dead. I got a replacement at Advanced, but it's not just the motor, it's the whole lift system. Thought I'd just take off the motor and swap them, but the bolt patterns don't match. So I'm left replacing the whole thing. My problem... the original upper arm is rivited to the window. How do I remove the rivits without shattering the window?

 

Usually you take a drill bit and drill the rivet out. Then you will have to use bolts and nuts to replace the rivets.

 

I am stuck as well please advise how to reinstall the regulator


jonathanbrunold@mac.com

my book sucks

Thanks in advance for any and all help

 

Hey Guys & Gals,

First post here, and I'm damn sure glad I found this forum yesterday. The day before, I stopped @ McDonalds and the driver's side power window on my 1992 Explorer started acting squirrely. The motor was humming but the window needed hand assistanceto move it up and down. I got out my Haynes Manual and began reading. I ran down to to the parts store to buy a panel removal tool and headed home. The Haynes Manual was pretty informative about getting the door panel off, for it has pictures of the process. The panel removal tool is useless, because you can't see the retainers well enough to get the tool around them. After removing three screws, a plastic insert around the door handle, and the door switch assembly, I began prying the door panel loose at the lower rear of the door. I just worked my way around the bottom and both sides. The top of the panel resides in a channel. Once the bottom and sides are loose, just lift the panel up. Next you see a plastic sheet that keeps water from getting to the door panel. I peeled mine off very slowly, and I imagine you could use a blow dryer to heat it up a little too to aid in removal. Then I went back to reading the Haynes Manual and thought I might be in over my head. A guy in the neighborhood repairs auto glass, so I drove over to his house about four times yesterday. He never returned and it turned out well he didn't. Most likely would have been about $75 bucks an hour. Anyhow, after reading the postings above, I decided to give it a try. I went to the parts store again and had to buy a 1/2" drill bit with a smaller shaft to fit my 3/8" drill. I also bought the Window Regulator Gear Plug Kit (Motormite #74410) Total cost.....just over $20. When you look at the Plug Kit, you ask yourself.....where the hell are these three neoprene bushings going to go? I pulled out the speaker next and located the dimple under it other folks have referenced. I drilled a 1/2 hole in that spot, but the bolt head wasn't perfectly aligned with the hole. I used tin snips to enlarge the hole. The other two 8mm bolt head were easily seen through the door frame. It was nice to have the speaker out, for it makes it easy to get your hand on the motor. Oh......when you're at the parts store, buy yourself one of those magnets on a flexible shaft. I had to go fishing for those 8mm bolts during both removal and reinstallation of the motor. Once you get the motor out, disconnect it from the wiring harness at the connector. Take it somewhere that has good lighting. You'll see a black, plastic round cover that requires a torx screw driver for the one screw that holds this cover in place. Remove that screw and pry the black cover off. Once you get the cover off, you will find the remnants of the neoprene plugs that were placed in the motor in 1991. Mine were basically mush. Now.... you know they have to go under the metal gear assembly, but you're asking yourself.....how the hell does that metal gear come off? If you look closely at the shaft, there is a very small "c" clip that must be removed with a very small screw driver. Once you remove this clip, you can pry the metal gear off and get to the bushing housing. Blow out the old bushing parts with compressed air, and spray some white grease in the housing. Put the three bushings into the housing, and prepare to push the metal gear assembly back into this area. It's tight fit to say the least, but if you work with a screwdriver you can push the bushings aside well enough to push the gear assembly down and reattach with the small "c" clip. I had to pinch my "c" clip with needle nose pliers to make it fit tight. Spray some more white grease onto the assembly and reattach the black cover with the torx screw. Just to make sure, I attached the motor lead to its connector and tried the window switch. It worked great in both directions. I disconnected the motor lead and reached through the speaker hole with the motor. I used my left hand to reach through a rear hole in the door frame to hold the motor in place while using my right hand to install the bolts. The metal gear wouldn't mesh correctly, so I reconnected the motor and jogged it one time. This time it seemed to fit correctly for the motor flanges were tight against the housing. I put one bolt into the 8mm socket, pushed it through the door panel hole and toward the threaded hole on the motor. Plink! it had fallen into the bottom of the door. Well....the magnet worked well. I then took a small amount of duct tape and fastened each of the three 8mm bolts into the socket one at a time. (no more dropped bolts) I tightened the three bolts and applied power. The window when North and South nicely. I then sprayed some white grease into the channels where the window actuator resides as I moved the window North and South. Then I put the plastic sheet back on. Since the adhesive on the sheet is sixteen years old, it didn't hold to well, so I used scotch tape around the perimeter. I grapped the door panel and made two connections. One to the light on the door and another to an assembly inside the door panel. I don't know what it's for. I then pulled the switch assembly up through the door panel and fastened it in place. I rested the top of the door panel in its groove and everything appeared to be lined up well. I went around the door panel with the heel of my hand to drive the door panel fasteners back into the sheet metal. I tried the window again and it worked perfectly. I got out the glass cleaner and cleaned all the smudges from the window. Total time invested this morning was about three hours, and I saved big bucks. Thanks again! I too, hope I've helped somebody out. I originally thought I was going to have to remove the window, drill out rivets, etc. You don't have to, and you save yourself a lot of headaches.......Good Luck.....Old Crow

 

I want to add information to this post as it did help me some along with other sites to repair my power window motors in my 1990 Ford Taurus.

I had trouble finding good documentation on the Internet to help me repair the problem with my power windows in my 1990 Ford Taurus. I did find some photos and info that did help some. And some sketchy info in an auto repair manual.

So I documented my repairs with quite a few photos and put them on my web site.

The power window motors are the same in the 1986 -1995 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. And that same motor is used in quite a few of the other ford trucks, vans and cars. The basics are similar in many other brands and models of vehicles.

You can see the help page at this link:

Power Windows - Repair Part One

 

This might help - How To Change a Power Window Motor - Carcondition.com

 

on my 1986 f150 i had to drill out the rivets that were holding my window motor in place....not a hard job!It could also be your button controller or yes it can actually be the motor

 

once you have motor out then run a bench test on it to see if it works bothways

 

you betchya

 

The link I had to the how to repair power windows changed. Here is the new one: How To Repair Power Windows

Might be helpful.

SpJoRuss

 

If you can't find a manual just look it up on Youtube, they show you step by step how to remove the door panel.

 

Guys, Since I'm a guy and am visual I just got done doing this job and thought I'd post pics for everyone to see what's involved and what I discovered when I did mine!

FYI
Dorman P/N 747-409
Autozone "Window Motor Kit" #010463 ($19.99)

You'll need a 1/2"+ dia drill bit, 5/15" magnetic socket driver if you can get one, some packing tape to re-tape the sheeting and about 2+ hours of time depending on how good you are or how organized you are.

So, without further blabbing on about this, here are my pics, there is plenty of verbage in the other posts about how to do this but I much like we like **** and women don't, pictures help me tremendously!

Window Lift Motor Link Pics