I have run the codes and got code 213 Spout circuit open or shorted. I have done this engine running with spout plug in and also pulled and cleared codes before each test. Truck can not be driven with spout plug in. Idle is low and surges and will die when coming to a stop. Had icm tested and it is fine. TPS and Idle control are new, no vac leaks i could find. I am thinking it is the computer? Also the last time I tried to pull the codes it would not let me. Any help would be great. Thanks

 

Not being able to pull codes is suspect. But before anything else, I'd test the wires going to the spout to make sure they go where they need. If they seem OK, maybe other is your PCM. I know someone who rebuilds them, let me know if you want that info

 

It was giving me codes and I fixed 2 of them but it did not help much. Last time i tryed to get the codes it started to then just stopped. Ive checked the wires best i could and looks ok. It is somewhat drivable with spout plug pulled out but with it in its not. With it in it pings like crazy, no power till around 30 mhp then it takes off, once you let off the throttle it surges and bucks like crazy. And my fuel consumption is about double normal. Thanks for your reply and thoughts.

 

Have you adjusted the distributor at all?

I would expect the vehicle to run worse w/o the spout. When the spout is out, the computer won't add any spark, so you only have the base timing set on the dizzy, usually 10 BTDC. With spout in, the PCM adds spark based on load and RPM. So spark, with spout connected, could be up around 30 BTDC, or so. Maybe less for your motor.

 

Sounds a lot like the computer, sorry to say. What follows are a few thoughts mainly based on what I've read around here.

As RIKIL noted, it will run on pretty much fixed timing with the SPOUT out ( I think that it might advance a little).

The SPOUT connection is a little strange. The ICM puts a signal out on that line, and the computer puts a signal on top of it. The combination sets the timing to the right place - basically, from what I've read, the ICM signal ends up being reshaped.

So, without a scope, you have no real clue as to what's happening.

One thing that you might do is check the voltage going to the TPS. The computer puts out a lower voltage to the sensors (5 volts?), which is precisely regulated. If that's not what it should be, it's a sign that something is wrong with the computer -- or the sensor wiring.
(Since you replaced the TPS, it's worth checking it with the TPS unplugged if you get a bad reading -- engine off).

I have read that these computers can fail due to the electrolytic capacitors failing. I don't know that, I've only read it. But, folks around here have fixed computers by changing them. If you search on 'electrolytic' or 'capacitor', you'll probably find some posts with pics of the process.

Rebuilt computers still do seem to be available ( something like $150), although you might have to use an internet supplier.

Good Luck,

hj

 

Thanks. I have been pretty much decided its the computer was just seeing if anyone mite have a cheaper and easier solution. From what my brief look turned up its a pain to get my computer out, covered by a large support bracket wich has bolts covered by and under the dash. The local parts store can order the computer, $100-$300 depending on the computer.

Thanks again for your input, it was greatly appreciated

 

I haven't messed with the timing, timing light died, but it went from running decent to barely running in stages.
With the spout out it idles low and surges but when i put the spout plug back in it goes even lower and all but dies out and is impossible to drive.
I have heard other places that trucks around this year were know to have computers go bad, but it also has about 230k on it.
I mite give it a little timing tweak by ear tom to see if that helps if not prob just gotta bite the bullet and go for the computer.
Thanks again.