Hey guys,

Still on my hunt for a truck.

1972 Ford F-100 4x4 nice

Came across this one and was wondering about the power steering. Did it come stock on 72's, if it was a swap what should I look for to make sure it was done well and will hold up. Any more advice would be awesome.

Thanks!

 

It couldda come with PS bit it's a PS-assist with a ram. Can't tell from the pics if it is or not. Might ought to contact the seller for info along with getting the data plate information.

An updated system would be an integral PS where the fluid is pumped through the steering box. For reference, here's a kit on the market for updating to integral PS. Ford F100 Conversion

That looks to be pretty good deal for $3500 IMO... it's got the "oops" front bumper kink for authenticity too...

 

Update:

The seller sent me more pictures:

F100 - Imgur

Anything stand out as something horrible?

 

Also, does anyone know what the holes on the side of the bed are?

 

The hyperlink results in "File Not Found".

 

It has tie downs too...

Is the bed in oddly good condition? It may have had a campershell sometime during its previous life.

 

Sorry here is the link: F100 - Imgur

And it may have, I'm going to go check it out this evening.

 

I would guess aux fuel tank...

 

That was my first thought, but then I thought I saw one on the other side too.

 

Thanks! Ford 9 rear, dual exhaust, headers, FE, PS, PB, and a clean interior too.

Based on the steering box location, it looks like the owner/previous owner swapped in an integral PS system. An assist system I believe would have its steering box up by the core support with the pitman arm pointing aft.

Helper springs in the back under the stock leaf pack and block... but I've never seen helpers with the curved ends.

Concur on the potential of auxiliary fuel tanks... those holes look like where a fuel neck wouldda been screwed on the sheetmetal.

Like I said, that looks to be a pretty good deal for $3500. The engine and running gear appears that it will clean up pretty well.

 

Thanks for the help. Are there places for 2 auxiliary tanks? How hard are those to find and replace or would I be better off covering them up.

 

The auxiliary tanks were likely aftermarket due to the location of the filler necks on that truck. Their location is partially in the cab but mostly under the front part of the bed, inside the frame rails. I figure that rig's were removed prior to installation of that dual exhaust system cuz they would occupy the same space. Personally, I'd weld up the holes.

Are the factory tanks available? I believe they are (from LMC is where I recall) but I don't think the mounting brackets are available. I spied a 67 in the JY with an aux tank and removing the brackets will require removing big honkin' rivets like the ones on your rear leaf spring brackets. .. even more a pain in the azz is that the rivet heads are on top of the frame rail so the bed has to be removed or holes cut through to get to them. Oy.

 

Anything look wrong with it? I've never owned an old truck and am at a loss at what to look for when I'm looking at them and test driving.

 

Nothing that we haven't noted already. It looks like a candidate. Ask the seller to tell you more about the truck. Ask for information on how long they've owned it and why they're putting it up for sale.

Ask about the integral PS, the bedside holes, the bed's relatively good condition, and any info on its past ownership? Was it ever an old man's truck? Did it ever have a camper insert or a camper shell?

Rust... examine the crossmembers, roof rails, cab mounts, floor pans, rear cab corners and the flange that extends down behind the cab. The rear corners of the hood.

Check for loose, missing hardware, or odd hardware. Most every screw should have a Phillips head. Any straight slot heads? That usually means they're wood screws. Wiggle brackets, body parts, etc. Is it assembled in accord with good practices? Was a quick fix forgotten and not fixed/reassembled correctly?

Look for leaks. Some are more normal than others. The PS steering box is leaking already since it is wet. A rear pinion seal is a pain in the butt as is a rear main seal. If anything is caked with oil & dirt, check to see how easy it is to scrape off or is it baked on? Look at the back of the drums and wheels? Any brake fluid leaking?

Check all the fluids. Do they smell musty or burnt? Is there any water in the oil (milkshake!) Are they are the correct level? Coolant.. is it a nice medium green with no oil sheen? Is the air filter clean? Brake fluid relatively transparent or is it dark brown? Dark brown or floating particles means the system needs to be rebuilt cuz the rubber seals are old.

Turn on the electrical system and turn on EVERY system. Do all the lights illuminate? Even the license plate lights? During the test drive, do the turn signals cancel? Any disconnected or loose wires that are not connected to anything? Are the electrical connections sound? Meaning, are there any wires that are twisted and taped together? Is it electrical tape or duct/masking tape? Any use of household wire nuts? If so, that's the sign of a hack!!!

Fire it up. How easy is it to start Does the choke work? Is the RPM steady? With the hood open, do you hear any exhaust leaks? What about a vacuum leak? Does blipping the throttle reset the idle speed? Any smoke/haze coming out of the exhaust? Take it up to 2000 rpm... does it do it easily or does it labor? Any misfires? Do the gauges look normal? Let it idle for about 5 minutes to let it cook and get up to temp.

Test drive... street. how smoothly does it shift? Do the turn signals cancel? does it track straight? does it stop straight? Do you hear any clunks/strange noises while turning? Stop and then back up. Does reverse work?

Test drive.. offroad! Does the transfer case engage smoothly? Does it come out of 4WD smoothly?

End of test drive. Park and let it idle for about 10 minutes. How are the temps? Any more leaks as a result of the test drive or extended idling? Is it burping coolant into the overflow tank (if equipped).

Bring an objective third party observer with you. Preferably someone with experience on old cars/trucks. If the asking price is $3500 and your price target is $2700.. you hold the $2700 and have your pal hold $800. Don't let the seller or the pal talk you into buying... it's your decision so be ready to walk away.

Good luck.

 

Wow. Thank you that is exactly what I needed. I can't thank you enough.


Aidan