07 Mountaineer AC repairs
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Joined: Oct 2004
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07 Mountaineer AC repairs
The clutch on the air conditioning compressor looks like it's fried. It, or the compressor, makes a terrible noise when the air is turned on, I can see small pieces of rubber sticking out of the clutch. Called the dealership and got a quote of up to $1000, yikes! Said it could just be the clutch or the compressor may have froze up causing clutch problems. I just ordered a new motorcraft compressor, drier/accumulator, to make repair. My question is how hard is this thing to get out, it looks like it's stuffed in there pretty good. I've looked through the forum but didn't see any hints on actual replacement and any problems encountered. It's a 07 Mountaineer 4.6. Can you go through the wheel well to access it? Any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated. If I can get this in myself I'll then take it in for full recharge, etc. Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
From your description, it sounds like your compressor grenaded internally. Since it makes noise when the AC is turned on, that indicates an internal problem. If so, there's a LOT more to the repair than just replacing the compressor and accumulator.
Check to see if you can turn the clutch plate by hand. It should turn freely with slight resistance, no roughness or notchiness.
If there is internal damage, you will also need to replace the condenser, front orifice tube, the rear expansion valve, any line with a muffler and flush the entire system front and rear.
The failing compressor will have sent debris into the condenser and both metering devices. The condenser cannot be flushed reliably due to it's internal design.
The dealer "over the phone" estimate is actually quite conservative. To replace the rear expansion valve and expose the lines for flushing, you need to remove much of the rear interior.
Check to see if you can turn the clutch plate by hand. It should turn freely with slight resistance, no roughness or notchiness.
If there is internal damage, you will also need to replace the condenser, front orifice tube, the rear expansion valve, any line with a muffler and flush the entire system front and rear.
The failing compressor will have sent debris into the condenser and both metering devices. The condenser cannot be flushed reliably due to it's internal design.
The dealer "over the phone" estimate is actually quite conservative. To replace the rear expansion valve and expose the lines for flushing, you need to remove much of the rear interior.
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