Initial start after IP/lift pump
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
Initial start after IP/lift pump
I have my IP out and will exchange it tomorrow. I also pulled the injectors to be tested. They have about 6000 miles on them and I'm sure they're what did the IP in. Just want to make sure all is well before installing everything. While the injectors are out I want to change the lift pump while the engine is easy to turn over(after the IP is installed, of course). I am leaving the filter alone until it is up and running again. Then I will change that.
All that to ask this:
What is the fastest way to get this thing fired off? I know how to bleed the injectors by loosening the lines and the new IP should be somewhat ready to go as it has been run on a test machine. Will the new pump have to prime and bleed all the air before the IP can be purged or can it draw from the filter? If it requires pressure feed from the lift pump that seems like A LOT of cranking.
Any advice is appreciated!
All that to ask this:
What is the fastest way to get this thing fired off? I know how to bleed the injectors by loosening the lines and the new IP should be somewhat ready to go as it has been run on a test machine. Will the new pump have to prime and bleed all the air before the IP can be purged or can it draw from the filter? If it requires pressure feed from the lift pump that seems like A LOT of cranking.
Any advice is appreciated!
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: East Waterford, PA
After installing my motor it took 3 cranks for mine to start. motor was used not rebuilt or anything. Should not take more than 5 cranks for it to start to get fuel. Have a battery charger on it before and during cranking
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
O.K. first of all welcome to the forum, and as you are a relatively new user, I will add... Shame on you for not including any information on your truck! What year? what motor? what mods? Information is key here! There is no worry in changing your fuel filter during this process, just fill it with fuel before you put it on. The lift pump holds so little fuel that it won't be a factor either. I have done this a half a dozen times, and here is the best way i have found. Do all of the work, and if you decide to do the filter also, as stated just fill it with fuel before you install it. (that is the biggest void in the fuel system) I like to pull all of the injector lines that are easy to get to, and put a piece of paper towel under them, and crank her until you get fuel on the paper towels. Then, crank down the injector lines and she should at least fire on the first or second crank as long as your GP system is up to snuff. Make sure that you have her timed properly once she is rolling again you'll save fuel and get more power.
Good luck,
Mac.
Good luck,
Mac.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
It is a 93 F250 7.3 N/A E4OD, 199,975 mi. I didn't think to include it because I figured it was all the same as far as the fuel system goes.
The real bummer is that I can't find anyone locally to set the dynamic timing. Even the only factory authorized Stanadyne diesel shop in Houston won't do it. When I inquired about dynamic timing the head technician said they would line up the marks and that's it. He said they got rid of the tools a while back because they were finicky. A Powerstroke specialty shop told me to advance it until it smokes at full throttle then back it off some. That seems wrong to me.
The pump that was on it was retarded(line on pump is on drivers side of mark on drive housing) .060" as measured along the flange radius. I plan to install the marks straight up and see how it runs.
The GP system is all new, as well as the whole fuel system and cooling system. I did idler and tensioner while I was there too.
If anyone knows a diesel shop in the Houston area that will do the dynamic properly I'd love to know about 'em!
Thanks.
The real bummer is that I can't find anyone locally to set the dynamic timing. Even the only factory authorized Stanadyne diesel shop in Houston won't do it. When I inquired about dynamic timing the head technician said they would line up the marks and that's it. He said they got rid of the tools a while back because they were finicky. A Powerstroke specialty shop told me to advance it until it smokes at full throttle then back it off some. That seems wrong to me.
The pump that was on it was retarded(line on pump is on drivers side of mark on drive housing) .060" as measured along the flange radius. I plan to install the marks straight up and see how it runs.
The GP system is all new, as well as the whole fuel system and cooling system. I did idler and tensioner while I was there too.
If anyone knows a diesel shop in the Houston area that will do the dynamic properly I'd love to know about 'em!
Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: Co
Just don't do like I did and leave it set to draw from your 100% empty rear tank and forget to cycle the GPs...in the middle of winter. Was driving me nuts why I couldn't get it to fire (and no I didn't realize both mistakes at once, found fuel tank first, got fuel at injectors but no start due to not using glowplugs...while I was standing in a foot of snow)
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
No worries about snow here. Just sweltering humidity and mosquitoes that carry you away.
I made sure to fill the tank and drive it to get a good charge on the batteries.
I went this morning to exchange the IP. One thing to note for those doing this job, take all of the fittings off of your old IP including the TPS blade held on w/ two set screws and the flat head screw that rides in the arc of the TPS bracket. Brass fuel inlet fitting and elbow off the top too. My new one didn't come with these.
I also have some kind of fuel issue as well. Four of the new injectors (6000 miles) failed the pop test today. Fuel contamination was cited as the cause. The tech said the fuel coming from the returns was not pretty on the four that failed. The other four were fine. They are disassembling them to clean and re-test. They sell Raycor filters and recommended that I use one. The guy claims they are 2 micron filters. We'll see if they even stock one for old IDI's.
I made sure to fill the tank and drive it to get a good charge on the batteries.
I went this morning to exchange the IP. One thing to note for those doing this job, take all of the fittings off of your old IP including the TPS blade held on w/ two set screws and the flat head screw that rides in the arc of the TPS bracket. Brass fuel inlet fitting and elbow off the top too. My new one didn't come with these.
I also have some kind of fuel issue as well. Four of the new injectors (6000 miles) failed the pop test today. Fuel contamination was cited as the cause. The tech said the fuel coming from the returns was not pretty on the four that failed. The other four were fine. They are disassembling them to clean and re-test. They sell Raycor filters and recommended that I use one. The guy claims they are 2 micron filters. We'll see if they even stock one for old IDI's.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
Well after clean-up three injectors are still stuck. And here I thought these injectors were forgiving as to contamination.
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Dynamic timing? Buy one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Timing-Adapter-for-Ford-and-GM-/271034840050?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3f1aef73f2&vxp=mtrWorks great on my 7.3 IDI. You need a timing light of your own, but that and this is all you need.
Note that these seem to be new old stock, so the 9V battery inside the box will likely be dead; just a matter of 4 philips screws to replace it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Timing-Adapter-for-Ford-and-GM-/271034840050?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3f1aef73f2&vxp=mtrWorks great on my 7.3 IDI. You need a timing light of your own, but that and this is all you need.
Note that these seem to be new old stock, so the 9V battery inside the box will likely be dead; just a matter of 4 philips screws to replace it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ALL-SEASON'S
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
16
Feb 15, 2019 10:59 AM
ctbiodzl
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
34
Feb 27, 2014 09:12 PM
Sparkplugless
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
11
Sep 21, 2012 07:42 PM