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i wonder if the synchronizer itself is failing.... I don't know how to check them other than pulling it out and inspecting it....the gear .... prior to pulling it out -if you do- make sure the motor is on TDC.... make a mark on block, sensor, and synchronizer..... basically treat it like a distributor.
I can't think of anything else... the symptoms are weird and now no more codes??? Hoping someone with more experience on this particular motor chimes in...
yeah i drove the truck for about 200 miles with no codes thrown. then it thru a crankshaft position variation system not learned. but the truck did not drive any different. then drove it for another 250 miles and now it throws cylnders 2, 3, 6 misfires codes
this truck is pissing me the **** off. its the truck i need running properly to drive 2600 miles to california so live and work. f'ing b.s.
did you feel the misfires? what was the code for that crankshaft variation problem? i wanna try and look that up through Ford (I have access to dealer service manuals)
ok cool thank you. also i called the service department to a local ford dealer. and he had no idea what the crankshaft position variation system not learned code meant. he suggested a short in the harness but i took the harness off and continuity checked and ohmned out every single wire
ok...it goes back to that pulse wheel I mentioned above in post #13....
HD42 CHECK THE PHYSICAL CONDITION OF THE CRANKSHAFT PULSE WHEEL.
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Are the CKP sensor and Crankshaft Pulse Wheel OK?
Yes No INSPECT the Crankshaft by referring to the Engine System, General Information Section 303-00 in the Workshop Manual, Diagnosis and Testing, to make repairs. REPAIR as necessary. DISCONNECT the battery for 5 minutes to allow PCM to learn new data.
ok cool thank you. also i called the service department to a local ford dealer. and he had no idea what the crankshaft position variation system not learned code meant. he suggested a short in the harness but i took the harness off and continuity checked and ohmned out every single wire
dealer in many cases don't want to give you good info unless you know someone like a tech... they want your business or make money off your headaches
I know you said you ohmed out the entire harness, have you tried wiggle testing the crankshaft wiring specifically? Make sure both sides of the connector is good too (from face to back of it)? trying to throw out any ideas I can come up with... since apparently your issue seems intermittent to me, so I lean towards the electrical side more.... mechanical issues don't clear up and codes didn't come up for a little while after driving
dealer in many cases don't want to give you good info unless you know someone like a tech... they want your business or make money off your headaches
I know you said you ohmed out the entire harness, have you tried wiggle testing the crankshaft wiring specifically? Make sure both sides of the connector is good too (from face to back of it)? trying to throw out any ideas I can come up with... since apparently your issue seems intermittent to me, so I lean towards the electrical side more.... mechanical issues don't clear up and codes didn't come up for a little while after driving
i have done a wiggle test many times before. also have soaked the engine down to see if it made a difference which it did not. the sensor and teeth are in good shape
oh wow...that's smart, soaking the engine down....hmmm this makes no sense to me, again.... also going by the codes it throws..... I'm wondering if something going on with that PCM, rare but it happens, and the fact you are able to connect with it and retrieve codes kept me from thinking that route.
oh wow...that's smart, soaking the engine down....hmmm this makes no sense to me, again.... also going by the codes it throws..... I'm wondering if something going on with that PCM, rare but it happens, and the fact you are able to connect with it and retrieve codes kept me from thinking that route.
haha heres the thing about the pcm. the original i had flashed by the dealer. didn't trust that they did it. so i bought a used pcm and had a different dealer program that one. so I'm pretty sure the pcm is ok
How about doing a compression test for ****s and giggles? I know you said it got rebuilt, but this way you cover everything you can possibly cover.... you've checked all the electrical stuff, harness and all, it would be wise to double check the mechanical. It doesn't cost anything and have nothing to lose. At a dead end at this point too, or at least I am. I don't know what all went into the rebuild nor how much of the engine was broken down.
I also can't believe no one else has chimed in at this point. Definitely could use all the help available on this problem.
How about doing a compression test for ****s and giggles? I know you said it got rebuilt, but this way you cover everything you can possibly cover.... you've checked all the electrical stuff, harness and all, it would be wise to double check the mechanical. It doesn't cost anything and have nothing to lose. At a dead end at this point too, or at least I am. I don't know what all went into the rebuild nor how much of the engine was broken down.
I also can't believe no one else has chimed in at this point. Definitely could use all the help available on this problem.
ive done a compression test multiple times. when it was hot and cold
Good trouble shooting guys, but it kinda looks like Murphys Law might be messing with you!!!!! lol
Post All code Numbers you were getting in the beginning of this trouble shoot & all code numbers you now have after replacing each of the parts & the vendor name for each part.
As I read it, the computer, crank sensor, cam sensor & coilpack have been replaced at various times in the trouble shoot & as I understand it, you are now getting misfire codes for cyls 2-3-6 & a P0315???? If so, after which replaced part did which trouble code come about????? EDIT: When you replaced the cam sensor, was its sync assy also replaced & if so name the vendor. Are you now hearing any noise from the cam sensor area?
If you have, or can come by a scantool that'll perform a cylinder balance test, do that & post the results.
EDIT: On the rough idle, are the plug wires routed Exactly as the factory had them, using All of the wire looms & stand offs???? When its doing this rough idle, at night, raise the hood & look for arcs & sparks from the coilpack , along the plug wires, to the plugs themselves. Maybe do a "wet down test" of each plug wire & coilpack with a spray bottle of water, while looking for an arcs & sparks light show, or a change in idle.
You say this 3.0L doesn't have an EGR valve, so are you Certain that you have the correct computer & its program is to the latest version for this engine????
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