64 Custom Cab Questions
1. The '64 column (from what I have read) is part of the steering box. and penetrates the floor very low. Since I am planning a Crown Vic swap to replace the solid front axle, can I seal up the original penetration and cut a new hole for a newer column from a later truck? and if so, would it be unwise to move the column closer to the dash more like the '65-'66 mounting?
2. I have 2 fuel tanks and a tank selector switch on the drivers side floor by the seat. The standard tank is behind the seat and one mounted at the rear of the frame behind the axle. Is it possible this is original or is this most likely an add-on?
3. I have had a hard time finding a patch panel to cover the fuel filler on the cab as I want to move the tank out of the cab. Does anyone have a source for the patch?
4. Are there any frame mounted tanks that will adapt to the frame that will allow me to use the spare tire mount under the bed (like how the 90's rangers mount I believe
)?5. Since I will be removing them from my truck and not using them, should I sell my body side moldings, windshield chrome trim, and original battery tray or trade them for a '66 grille? Or are they not worth anything but scrap aluminum and steel?
6. Are there any AC/Heat units that might fit in the truck from factory cars? For example, a small foreign car? I was planning to move my battery from under the hood so it frees up the real-estate on the firewall where such a system could mount.
I know it's a lot of questions
, but after going through threads on this site for the last month on a daily basis, I haven't seen much info on these subjects. I'm just trying to determine what direction I want to go and help from the community would be greatly appreciated!Thanks again from a new member,
Scott
1. The '64 column (from what I have read) is part of the steering box. and penetrates the floor very low. Since I am planning a Crown Vic swap to replace the solid front axle, can I seal up the original penetration and cut a new hole for a newer column from a later truck? and if so, would it be unwise to move the column closer to the dash more like the '65-'66 mounting?
You need to decide as a whole just what engine and trans combo along with the column and seats you want to run. This will dictate just where the steering column will need to exit the firewall or floor board to allow the correct angles on the u joints from the rack to the column.
The steering column on your truck is not integral to the box. The steering shaft is integral. it slips up and off the shaft. So unless you modify the column with a lower bearing and retianer and cut off and reuse your shaft you need a new column.
2. I have 2 fuel tanks and a tank selector switch on the drivers side floor by the seat. The standard tank is behind the seat and one mounted at the rear of the frame behind the axle. Is it possible this is original or is this most likely an add-on?
The frame rail tank and selector valve is an add on. Dealer or aftermarket.
3. I have had a hard time finding a patch panel to cover the fuel filler on the cab as I want to move the tank out of the cab. Does anyone have a source for the patch?
18 Ga Cold rolled and a hammer and dolly. Ford used to have a fuel tank delete plug but those have been gone for years and no one has a reproduction.
4. Are there any frame mounted tanks that will adapt to the frame that will allow me to use the spare tire mount under the bed (like how the 90's rangers mount I believe
)?Research a later 60s Mustang tank as Napass Suggests. Done lots of times to slicks and learner trucks. However with lowering the truck using a cast aluminum front suspension you would possibly find a tire under a fuel tank to be dragging on the ground. [/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]
5. Since I will be removing them from my truck and not using them, should I sell my body side moldings, windshield chrome trim, and original battery tray or trade them for a '66 grille? Or are they not worth anything but scrap aluminum and steel?
The 64 trim is one year only. If it is a short bed do not sell it for less than $250. A long bed set will bring $200. Windshield Stainless should bring about 50.00 to 100.00 to the right buyer. The original battery tray is worth $20 bucks as these are reproduced.
6. Are there any AC/Heat units that might fit in the truck from factory cars? For example, a small foreign car? I was planning to move my battery from under the hood so it frees up the real-estate on the firewall where such a system could mount.
I was once told yugo unit work quite spiffy. Or purchase a real aftermarket unit and that way it will not hokey up you build.
I know it's a lot of questions
, but after going through threads on this site for the last month on a daily basis, I haven't seen much info on these subjects. I'm just trying to determine what direction I want to go and help from the community would be greatly appreciated!Thanks again from a new member,
Scott
Garbz

Hood side mouldings: In front of side emblem (right/left specific) and rear of side emblem (right/left specific).
Cowl mouldings (right/left same).
Door mouldings (right/left specific).
Cab corner mouldings: 1963's with 'wrong' bed same as 1964's with 'wrong' bed, right/left specific.
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Custom Cab (& 1965/66 F100/250 Ranger) stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings same: 1961/66 F100/1100 - 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1100 - 1967/69 F800/1000.
The only fuel tank that came in these trucks was the in-cab tank. 1967 was the first year for optional left (drivers) side 25 gallon auxillary tank. Was used in conjunction with in-cab tank.
Ford never offered saddle tanks factory installed or as a dealer installed accessory.
Late 1960's Mustang tank? 1965/68: 16 gallon tank, same as 1967/68 Cougar. 1969 Mustang/Cougar: 20 gallon tank. 1970 Mustang/Cougar: 22 gallon tank. 1971/73 Mustang/Cougar: 20 gallon tank.
Hood side mouldings: In front of side emblem (right/left specific) and rear of side emblem (right/left specific).
Cowl mouldings (right/left same).
Door mouldings (right/left specific).
Cab corner mouldings: 1963's with 'wrong' bed same as 1964's with 'wrong' bed, right/left specific.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Custom Cab (& 1965/66 F100/250 Ranger) stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings same: 1961/66 F100/1100 - 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1100 - 1967/69 F800/1000.
The only fuel tank that came in these trucks was the in-cab tank. 1967 was the first year for optional left (drivers) side 25 gallon auxillary tank. Was used in conjunction with in-cab tank.
Ford never offered saddle tanks factory installed or as a dealer installed accessory.
Late 1960's Mustang tank? 1965/68: 16 gallon tank, same as 1967/68 Cougar. 1969 Mustang/Cougar: 20 gallon tank. 1970 Mustang/Cougar: 22 gallon tank. 1971/73 Mustang/Cougar: 20 gallon tank.Garbz
fits nicely where the spare tire is located... some modifications are needed.
and find another place to keep the spare.
Welcome to FTE.
- cs65
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Number, Thanks for all the research and hard work you put into giving everyone the accurate factory info! you are appreciated!
Garbz, I was toying with the idea of doing the Crown Vic front swap. After reading what you & others have had to say on the subject, I have changed my mind and will be doing the Dak swap from IC. Even though it's more expensive, I feel more comfortable with a suspension that has been designed to work on our vehicles and not risk the safety of my family.
As far as my truck, it is a '64 long bed Custom Cab. I do not like the body side moulding or the grille and will be posting it up for sale in the appropriate section when I have access. I might be open to a trade for a passenger side door panel corner piece? maybe a barter for a '66 grille? lol
I have decided to go with the 5.3 Chevy LS motor and the 4L60/4L80 in my '64 for now until I get a title for my '66 short bed. Once I get that, I will be swapping the 5.3 to the '66 and getting serious on the '64 build. Future plans are for a 6.0 LS and a NV4500 with a heavy duty 9" axle.
I have already started de-construction on the '64 and aside from
Rusty U-nuts
the truck is amazingly rust free. I will start a build thread when I am further along so I don't bore you with the snails pace I am able to afford working on her. Once again, thanks to all of you for your help and input. I look forward to a long and happy tenure here on the site.
Scott.




.............Sheeez....LOL
