I have a 02 F250 w/316k miles. About a month ago the truck sat for a week and when i started her up, the whole truck was shaking. I let her run for about two minutes and it was fine. Its like that everyday since then. But no problems turning on. and no problems when shes warm and i turn her on. but recently i have been driving down the interstate and it feels like the truck turns off for a half of a second and then its fine. when this happens you can hear a click coming from under the truck, kinda wanna say injector knock? the other time when this happens is when im accelerating and it will do the same thing except 5 to 8 times in 10 seconds. I do not think its a fuel issue because the truck throws black smoke... alot (TS 6 Pos Chip) And the problem still happens when i removed the chip. No codes are thrown when this happens. But ive had an oil leak on the back of the motor, the oil drips down the downpipe but does not come from the turbo (4" downpipe to 5" straight pipe) but its done this since i got the truck 2 years ago. and the leak has not gotten any worse. but the smell of burning oil is present after a heavy load or my lead foot issue.

lots of help will be greatful to me

I have replaced:
- ICP Sensor
- Cam Sensor
- Fuel Filter

 

Any flashing lights on the dash at all when it cuts out? Split second cut out sounds like CPS. Where did you get the one you just put in? A momentary short to ground can also do this, but will often cause some of the dash lights to flash.

If you want to check for chaffed wires, below and behind the 42 pin connector are the first place to start. Then the IPR and ICP pigtail, and from there the pigtail going to the UVCH.

 

No lights dim when this happens, and i got the cam sensor from a local Bennett Auto

 

I'd try an OEM CPS. Parts house CPS sensors are notorious for being bad out of the box. I had a stalling issue that was remedied by unplugging the fuel bowl heater.

 

Another thing. Not sure how the TS ships are, but whan I had a loose connection on my DP the truck would stall almost every bump I hit. New cable and no problems.

 

Well when the weather calms down im gonna try taking the chip off and cleaning the conector some more (maybe bad conection) and i just ordered the CPS from international. i was told that was the best one.

 

If the problem persists with the chip removed we can rule that one out. You say when the weather calms down. Has this been happening with your wipers on? Leak in the valley.....have you checked your HPOP res? Might check the tin nut and connector on the IPR while you're playing around in there. Also have a look at the UVCH harness and check for chafing. Does the click under the dash sound like it could be a relay?

 

The problem happens rain or shine, but the weather has been bad today. Im gonna try to get a look at things tomorrow if its not raining

 

I would start by getting a injector test done somewhere near you. Most places I have been to will do it for free. Try some rev x too.

 

Welcome to FTE. What kind of injector test are you getting done for free? I've never found anyone around here who would do such a thing.

And Rev X is designed more to cure stiction issues in the injectors of the 6.0 motor. The 7.3 does not suffer from those problems.

 

I have had a diesel performance shop by my home in Green Bay do a buzz test for me a few times in the last number of years on my 01. They have never charged me, but I also buy parts from them. I'm sure you know more than me, but the rev x has worked good on the 6.0. But like you said, that doesn't mean it would on the 7.3.

 

Most places charge $100 or more for a buzz test, so consider yourself lucky and keep buying from those folks. Rev-X was designed specifically for the sticiton issues in the 6.0 injectors. That's why it works so well on them.

Our old 7.3's are more basic and don't have all the fancy new developments that led to the stiction issue. We also don't have to deal with a FICM that needs resistors soldered back in place.

 

Well the weather still is not being nice to me but i did get something done... maybe. i was looking at the IPR Valve and i took the plug off and it was soaked with oil, i took the magnetic part off and its soaked in oil. Could this be causing my problems? I have a spare (brand new Motorcraft) IPR Valve in my toolbox. should i just install the magnetic part or the whole thing?

 

Well im not the best expert on the 7.3L but when you remove the IPR Valve, oil should come out right? and the valve was not pretty looking, it is missing an o-ring and is pretty chewed up on the end.

 

Well i replaced the valve and it runs ten times better... but it still sputters randomly. Could this be maybe the valve cover gasket harness slowly going out? where it loses connection for a split second?