E40d leak
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E40d leak
My e40d leaks I drained it than replaced the filter along with the rubber gasket. The previous gasket was a quork one with that black gasket stuff everywhere! I had to scrape it all off piece by piece. installed the new gasket elbow torqued all pan bolts and put 6.4 quarts of ATF in. It still leaks!
so I assum possibly the pan is worped. My question is what should I do at this point? Should I get a used pan off eBay for 30 bucks? (Btw my pan has the little grooves around the edges) or should I try using that gasket stuff with my rubber gasket? Or try getting a quork gasket with the gasket stuff or what? I'm afraid if I get a used pan it's just gonna be worped too. And I hear a 4r100 pan will work but do I need a particular gasket? Thanks in advance
so I assum possibly the pan is worped. My question is what should I do at this point? Should I get a used pan off eBay for 30 bucks? (Btw my pan has the little grooves around the edges) or should I try using that gasket stuff with my rubber gasket? Or try getting a quork gasket with the gasket stuff or what? I'm afraid if I get a used pan it's just gonna be worped too. And I hear a 4r100 pan will work but do I need a particular gasket? Thanks in advance
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From: Mi'kma'ki
the most common reason for a trans pan to leak is over torquing the bolts.they only need 12 ft lb.
drop the pan,and you should be able to pound out the flange nice and flat and start over with your clean rubber gasket going much,much,much easier on snugging the bolts.remember you can always snug the bolts just that little more if you see a seep.
the e40d and 4r100 are the same basic trans just with internal differences.the pans are the same and share the same bolt/gasket pattern.if you want the 4r100 pan,it will simply come with a drain plug (minus ford lightnings or something odd like that iirc.) and your current rubber gasket will work.so if you will be replacing the pan,that's a good one to go with.
drop the pan,and you should be able to pound out the flange nice and flat and start over with your clean rubber gasket going much,much,much easier on snugging the bolts.remember you can always snug the bolts just that little more if you see a seep.
the e40d and 4r100 are the same basic trans just with internal differences.the pans are the same and share the same bolt/gasket pattern.if you want the 4r100 pan,it will simply come with a drain plug (minus ford lightnings or something odd like that iirc.) and your current rubber gasket will work.so if you will be replacing the pan,that's a good one to go with.
Fleet Owner
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From: Mi'kma'ki
you should be able to pound out the flange flat again yeah.
i wouldn't use anything with the rubber gasket.if you can't get the thing flat,then you could try using a cork gasket and load the sucker with ultra black rtv (high oil resistant) and see what happens to save money.
i wouldn't use anything with the rubber gasket.if you can't get the thing flat,then you could try using a cork gasket and load the sucker with ultra black rtv (high oil resistant) and see what happens to save money.
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Ok sounds good ill drop it and use a rubber mallet with the ground to carefully flatten it. Than get my buddies torque wrench an do it right to 12ft ib. Now I've been running great value Walmart cheap trans fluid only because I have a leak. Is that ok or should I be running something better? And also this is going to be the second trans drain in a few months. Both being with new fluid. From what I've heard that's not good? That transmissions don't like brand new fluid a lot. So should I recycle what I drain back in. Also how many quarts do you know? Without draining tc and without replacing the filter thank you
Laughing Gas
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There's some truth to the old wives' tale that old transmissions don't like new fluid.
What it is, from what I've found, is that old transmission fluid tends to have contamination that actually keeps the transmission working somewhat normally -- it modifies the friction properties of the ATF. When you drain it and put in new fluid, your transmission suddenly might not shift properly because you've removed all the contaminants.
It isn't the fault of the new ATF; it usually means your transmission is worn and needs to be fixed.
What it is, from what I've found, is that old transmission fluid tends to have contamination that actually keeps the transmission working somewhat normally -- it modifies the friction properties of the ATF. When you drain it and put in new fluid, your transmission suddenly might not shift properly because you've removed all the contaminants.
It isn't the fault of the new ATF; it usually means your transmission is worn and needs to be fixed.
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