I'm in serious need of help with this one!!!! I bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown. When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter. If anyone has any suggestionsoor advice I would greatly appreciate the help. I want to keep trying but I'm at a loss now.

 

What you are going to try sounds good. Maybe cleaning the mass airflow and throttle body will help.

 

check the circuits themselves.... from CMP to CMP2 ...also from CMP's to PCM, but remember to disconnect PCM and sensors before checking

 

I have a similar problem with an '07 F250 5.4. It runs fine for a while then the idle is terrible. It has a P0012 code now. I've replaced both Cam Pos. Sensors (the code alternates between bank 1&2) also, both VCT solenoids, Ford dealer wants $2000 to explore the front (timing tensioner parts,etc.) and the top end.

 

wow! They want 2 stacks to just explore? lol HAH! If as a last resort maybe and only if they can sign something saying that it will definitely be fixed in the end somehow and for at least a certain amount of time like 6 months to a year. That's big money in my book... that's more than a used motor right there! Plus why would the chain and tensioner parts be an intermittent problem?? That is strictly mechanical, and either is constantly failing and getting worse or is failed and engine can't run. Not magically b back to normal for a time, but that is just my opinion there. Cam phasers going bad on the 5.4's is a common issue and it being an '07 it doesn't have the spark plug spitting out, these have them break into 2 pieces leaving the base of the plug in head. Scratching my head there, but leaning more electrical or sensor issue there because it's intermittent. Update on that if you can, it definitely caught my attention and curiosity.

 

I'm with you on the sensor/electrical problem. I used after market cam pos. sensors so today I got a new pair of them from Ford. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow. I had an independent shop tell me they've seen this situation twice lately and the solution was a new long block. They claim the cams or more likely the heads wear out where the cams ride and it loses oil pressure necessary to advance the cams. The codes it keeps getting indicate retarded cam timing. Alan

 

^^^^ +1 YES only go with the motorcraft when it comes to Cam or Crank.... I myself seen that.... weird stuff - electrical interference

 

Since I posted the last thread I have replaced the oil pressure switch and my fuel filter. I cleaned out the throttle body and cleaned my mass air flow sensor, in that process I noticed my radiator was caked with cotton wood and junk. Got everything cleaned out and replaced, truck is running a lot better but the motor still ticks and sounds like a diesel. For only having 113,000 miles on it this is really getting old. I'm really starting to lose my faith in Ford. Plus my truck is getting little tiny rust dots covering it from the roof all the way down.

 

I tried the new Ford Cam Pos. Sensors and it drove fine on city streets for about 6 miles then at an idle it started running rough and the CEL started flashing. The idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. When I tried to boost the rpm nothing happened at first. Then it revved up and smoothed out at an idle again. The code is P0012 (#2 bank cam retarded). I cleared the code and it still is idling and responsive but probably not for long.

 

dag on Fords!! I started doing research on what the codes mean and why the throw the check engine light on.... this is for Zjeppesen1 and the 04 F150... maybe missed something there:

<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td align="left" valign="top">P0022 - Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
</td> <td align="left" valign="top">The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the VCT position for over-retarded camshaft timing. The test fails when the camshaft timing exceeds a maximum calibrated value or remains in a retarded position.</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td align="left" valign="top">P0345 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
</td> <td align="left" valign="top">The test fails when the PCM can no longer detect the signal from the CMP sensor on Bank 2.</td></tr></tbody></table>
then it says to check:
<table height="240" border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="942"><tbody><tr><td align="left" valign="top">

• CMP circuit open
• CMP circuit short to GND
• CMP circuit short to PWR
• SIG RTN open (VR sensor)
• CMP GND open (Hall-effect sensor)
• CMP incorrectly installed (Hall-effect sensor)
• Damaged CMP sensor shielding
• Damaged CMP sensor
• Damaged PCM

</td> <td align="left" valign="top">Harness routing, harness alterations, improper shielding, or electrical interference from other improperly functioning systems may have an intermittent impact on the CMP signal.










</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

P0012 deals with intake CAM timing being retarded but generally states it's more mechanical than electrical failure:

some info I found pertaining to Alan's 07 f250:

1. Remove the screw and the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) oil control solenoid.
   • To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).

1. Clean the mating surfaces and oil passages with metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.

1. Inspect the VCT housing for pitting, cracks or damaged sealing surfaces. Install a new VCT housing if damaged.

the link below is for info pertaining to DTC P0012...

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_fy...it?usp=sharing

I'm going to continue searching and see what else I can find pertaining to these issues...

 

After I replaced my oil pressure switch located directly behind my oil filter and found out that the cam pos sens on bank two had a loose clip and got both of those fixed my truck has been running a lot better. Now if I can only figure out how to make that stupid knock go away I'll be happy. But after all the problems that I have had with this truck and no help from Ford I'm sad to say I will not be buying another one ever again.

 

I just replaced the cam positioning sensors on my '08. They are on the top of the valve covers. I had to remove the valve covers to replace them. Truck runs like new now. 100,000 miles.
The early '04 and '05 model 5.4 had noise issues with the variable cam adjuster. The newer replacement parts should make the noise go away. The noise doesn't effect the performance, just sounds bad. The '08 has the one piece spark plugs, so no twisting off when changing.

 

Have you tested your battery? I snitz you not, I went through all that, and after 6 months, it was the freaking battery.

New plugs (that was no fun) New Coil Pack (done while the plug thing), replaced the gas pump control unit under [over?] the spare tire.

Then, I remembered having a similar problem with a older truck with 120,00 miles on it....

And a 1983 Yamaha motorcycle...

Does no one teach honest mechanics anymore???????

 

Oh yeah, and follow the reset procedures for after putting battery in. Basically, when you take battery out, turn on headlights, wait fifteen minutes, to drain out all the power, this forces the computer to die.

Hook the battery back up, start engine, let idle until in operating temperature range. Put foot on brake, take off parking brake, put in drive. Turn on AC let run one minute. (this puts strain on engine, but not much)

After that, you can start turning on all the other crap [which I don't have/ won't have], drive down to the dealer and punch him in the nose. [warning, this part might effect your milage for a a few months, but is well worth it I think.]